If the steering chain isn’t centered, the chain to wire joint can contact the 
sheave wheel at full steering lock, but generally not in both directions.  That 
isn’t a good sound to hear.  If you pull the sheave axles and they are brass or 
bronze, don’t ask, just replace. They will go bad..

 

Also, inside the pedestal on most C&C boats with radial drive wheels rather 
than quadrants, the chain and wire needs to cross to allow the boat to steer in 
the proper direction.  As such, the idler assemblies are different (offset) 
than a standard idler that doesn’t require the cables to cross.  On a crossed 
wire idler, one of the sheave assemblies will sit forward of the other allowing 
the wires to cross inside the pedestal without grinding on each other.  If you 
set this up the wrong way when changing a steering cable assembly, the result 
will be an ugly grinding sound.

 

Most of the steering components don’t require much in the way of lubrication.  
A squirt of Superlube Teflon grease in the wheel shaft bearing lubrication 
holes, a light application of 30 weight oil on a rag over the chain and wire 
rope, and a drop or two of 30 weight oil on the plain bushings of the idler 
wheels or turning sheaves.  Resist the urge to glob on tons of bearing grease 
on the chain and cables.  It isn’t moving fast so it doesn’t need something 
overly sticky (which will make a huge mess and contaminate the brake material 
in your wheel brake assembly to say nothing of your hands and clothing when 
installing or replacing).

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bwhitmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

Interestingly, I was just about to place a post about a clunking/crunching 
sound that seems to come put I'd the idler pulley as the wheel is turned either 
port or starboard from straight ahead.   Is this the same issue, either 
lubrication  (which I have tried, but perhaps not properly) or replacement of 
the idler wheels or axles?

 

Thanks!

 

Bruce Whitmore 

1994 C&C 37/40+

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

-------- Original message --------

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net <mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak 

 

Richard,

Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that support 
the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).  Don’t squirt 
WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease holes as it will 
tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.  You can also check to 
see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up and down, or 
side to side.  There should be no play in the shaft at all..

 

Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and 
all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft.  
If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes if 
everything else is apart.

 

The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the sheave pins (axles) for the 
bronze idler wheels.  They ride on plain bushings and in the “old days” the 
axles were also bronze, which will wear out eventually and allow the sheaves to 
go flying into the bilge under tension at the worst possible time.  If those 
have never been checked, replaced with stainless pins, or lubricated as 
described in Edson’s steering maintenance instructions, I would certainly do 
so.  Once the sheave pins wear, the sheaves go out of alignment and the 
squeaking you hear may be the axles getting ready to let go.  

 

Finally, the Edson Idler plate at the base of the pedestal is generally made of 
mild steel below the deck.  Not terribly subjected to the elements, but they 
can and will eventually start to rust.  Once that happens, sheaves, cable 
alignments and other critical steering components can be affected, so check for 
a rusty idler plate as well as wobbly sheave uprights.

 

Whatever you do, don’t wait for it to fail to fix it..  Boats without steering 
are not safe by any stretch of the imagination.  The folks at Edson are very 
good at walking you through what you need and they have data sheets on most 
every C&C Steering system they sold for our boats.

Cheers,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com <mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

Is it an Edson pedestal?  If so, there are two places to squeeze in grease 
under the compass.  If you look on YouTube there are Edson videos on replacing 
the bearings and they show the grease points.  

 

I just did the bearing replacement on my current boat.

 

Joel

 

On Thu, Aug 24, 2017 at 9:34 AM, Richard Walter via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Greetings, 

 

The wheel on our 1978 36-footer has always squeaked to varying degrees. Anyone 
found a solution to squeaky wheels? When it comes to getting grease, I cannot 
locate a grease fitting (Zerc). Anyone added one? 

 

Thank you,

Richard 

s/v INDIGO 


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301 541 8551

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