I am wondering... could you simply get rid of the part of the mainsheet leading forward? I am actually surprised that on a 38' boat you have only a 4:1 purchase for the mainsheet. I have a totally different boat, but I got rid of the mainsheet going forward (and then back to a clutch and a winch). Originally, I had a very similar set-up, with a 4:1 mainsheet. Instead, I installed 3:1/6:1 mainsheet blocks (it is double-ended). This works much better. There is never a problem with releasing the sheet (in the old setup it was an issue when close hauled in heavy weather), the 3:1 works really well, esp. for jibing, the 6:1 is great for fine trimming. As an added bonus I have room for the Boomkicker and I freed a clutch (I use it for the vang).
Just a thought. Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: December 21, 2015 12:59 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List How to attach a rigid boom vang on LF38 Patrick — I basically replaced two blocks, each with a roughly 90-degree lead (at the mast/boom gooseneck, and at the mast partners), with a single block with about a 150-degree lead at the deck collar. With enough purchase at the boom for the sheet (in my case, 4:1), I just need to overcome the friction of that one acute lead. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Dec 21, 2015, at 11:35 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I think I see what you're saying... a bit hard to visualize without pictures. But it sounds like you moved the forwardmost deck lead to the mast collar, and then from there to the boom you skipped / eliminated the forward-most lead on the boom (where the line would normally go vertically almost straight up to), going instead to a mid-boom (slightly aft of vang) block? I think the angles on that would work. One concern I had with that - that makes the sheeting angle at the mast collar block acute? As in about 45-60 degrees, rather than 90 degrees or so? I thought 90 or more was advisable since sharp acute angles exert higher loads. Although I guess that just means use a strong enough block. It sounds like most people's solutions end up abandoning the deck-mounted turning block behind the mast collar. The only downside to that is my mast collar is getting crowded. But I think I can free up room by moving the jib halyard forward stbd one position. -Patrick
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