Not not hijack this tread, I changed the subject. Since we seem to have epoxy experts here.
I am trying to take out some slight unevenness from the bottom of my bilge so that my keel bolt washers have an even contact. Can I use some low viscosity epoxy, just pour it into the bilge, probably dam of the area around the keel bolt with some tape, and let gravity do the leveling. We are talking maybe 1/4 in thickness at the highest point. I was originally thinking of using Marine-Tex but there are some areas which are a bit awkward to get to. The issue is that At 200 lbs-ft the clamping force is about 12,000 lbs. So I need something that will not crumble under the pressure. So the problem is to be low viscosity yet high compression strength. Thank you Ahmet C&C 25 Boston, MA On Tue, Nov 24, 2015 at 9:08 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > In my case, was not suggesting it is superior, I just prefer to purchase > the raw materials. This way, I can use unfilled as a first coat, make a > putty for the fill, and laminate at the end. Same epoxy, sometimes even > the same batch for multiple applications/jobs. YMMV. > Dave > > On Tue, Nov 24, 2015 at 8:49 AM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> I really don’t understand why people think that epoxy resin thickened >> with stuff to bring it to the consistency of putty is better to use than >> epoxy putty designed for the purpose. They are equally hard and equally >> stiff. Am I missing something? Dave >> >> Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> On Nov 23, 2015, at 11:05 AM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> For lead keel repair I think I'd just "clean" it very aggressively with >> an angle grinder and a new, very coarse disk, then immediately paint it >> with unfilled epoxy. While that is curing to its "B" stage, mix up a very >> stiff batch of epoxy filled with fumed silica and chopped glass. Fill it >> when the first coat is gelled/tacky. if its a huge crater, i might take >> two layers, (and a real good look for structural damage elsewhere) apply >> the second while the first is at its B stage. To finish that you could lay >> light glass cloth or better, just peel-ply on top while still pliable/wet >> and fair it pretty well with a plastic squeegee. >> I've never seen the aft edge of a keel fail. In the absence of an >> issues, I'm not sure I'd worry about that. My 33ii has a very thin >> trailing edge, still intact after 30 years. >> Dave >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- ------------------------------------------- Ahmet *"S/V Waterdancer"* 1990 Irwin 43 CC "Tabasco" 1973 C&C 25 Winthrop Yacht Club, Winthrop, MA / USA -------------------------------------------
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