A few weeks ago I started a thread about the rust on my keel bolt washers <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic2.jpg>.
Today, I bit the bullet and removed one keelbolt with the boat in the water with a 3 ft breaker bar extended with a pipe. The nut seemed to still have the right torque, and came out once I applied the force in the right direction :) I was able to peel off the corroded washer/backing plate with a screwdriver and a hammer. The bolt threads were clean (pic 5) <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic5.jpg> . So was the nut l (pic 9) <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic9.jpg> . It was all stainless steel. I did not get a chance to test the magnetism. I will do tomorrow. At no point was a hint of water seepage. Whatever was left as the rusted plate under the washer is in this picture <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic13.jpg>. It looks like an iron backing plate <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic14.jpg>. It is very magnetic. All I had was galvanized washers. So I put the good stainless steel washer to the bottom added 2 galvanized washers and a galvanized lock washer and tightened the nut back to approx, 200 lbs-ft <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic11.jpg>. Probably useless, but I put some boat-life under the stainless washer which probably got totally squeezed out. In the picture <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic12.jpg> you can not see the stainless washer because it is thinner and hidden behind the silicon. There is a slight bulge at the base of the keel bolt. *Repair plan:* I am planning to use: - Marine-Tex just to flatten out the bilge area, probably max 1/4 inches in the deepest areas, - use a layer of 3m 4200 - a 4 by 4 by 1 inch G-10 board as a backing plate - followed with triple 316 stainless washers. Does it look like overkill ? Should I just use 1/2 inch thick G-10 boards ? I will keep an eye on the galvanized washers. I am not very comfortable mixing galvanized with stainless. Now that I have sort of an idea what is under the nuts, I will complete the job for the other washers when I pull the rest of the nuts out while on the dry next spring. If someone sees something wrong in all these (*besides removing the nut while in the water, which seems to be a very contested subject* ) please feel free to scold me :) Thank You *Ahmet* *Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA* *1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"* *1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"* On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 11:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Actual torque values are available on the photo album site. > > Another material which you might find handy would be G10 FRP board. It > comes in 1/4" and 1/2". I can see the 1/2" working really well to act as > one large strong back for multiple keel bolts. Glop some very thick epoxy > or some Six10 under the board before setting it if you want. You could use > mold release on the bolts or the G10 board if you thought that you might > want to remove either in the future. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > On Nov 8, 2015 10:37 PM, "Ahmet via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > >> Thanks a lot guys. I will respond in one email to all the feedback to >> save on band with. >> >> Gary Kolc: Thank you that is very interesting and good to know >> >> Dave: I will follow your advise and use 4200. Most of the pictures I see >> have some kind of a sealant. Pretty much all of it will get squeezed out >> when the torque is applied anyway. I guess what is left will be whatever is >> on the uneven parts under the washer, and perhaps squeezed in into the area >> around the bolt. "70'es hot -rod fiberglass sorcery"... That about sums it >> up :) You are right they are probably original. >> >> I will lay up as much fiberglass as I can without removing the nut, to >> add width, trying to make the sump area as clean as Rick T. 's pictures >> show. >> I need to use a roller and go slow in order to make sure not to have >> voids. Maybe I'll put a 1 inch oak plywood vertically into that area and >> then epoxy/glass it in. I am not very familiar with fiberglass work, so >> I'll pick some other's brains here. filling in an area of 4 by 7 by 2 >> inches with epoxy/fillers and glass may be too much. >> >> >> Rick Taillieu : Thank you very much for the pictures. Your boat looks >> very clean even though it is almost as old as mine. >> I guess they must have had different people with different skills laying >> up these boats. I am starting to get convinced that Tabasco came out of the >> factory this way, and they just simply screwed up the sump. On my (picture >> 3) <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic3.jpg> you can see at the >> bottom part the round area with a hole in it where the glass just seems to >> have cured not going across, but simply folded back. >> >> I should dremel that irregularity off or better, fill it in with >> thickened epoxy and lay glass in such a way that it covers the bolt and is >> nice and smooth as yours is. That one is the first picture in your series. >> The one with two washers, so your sump starts a few inches after the bolt. >> Also based on what Gary posted about his 38 C&C I think this boat has been >> this way all her life. >> So I am not worried about that one as much but just for my piece of mind, >> I'll fix that to at least cover the keel bolt and give the rest of the >> washer some footing. >> Maybe the guy who did my bilge did your hull on the aft end of the keel >> sump afterwards :) >> >> >> Rick Brass: Thanks for the info. Tabasco has a anchor locker with a hawse >> pipe on the bow. Perhaps someone added a little bulkhead to make an anchor >> locker out of the front part of the v-berth. I am pretty sure my surviving >> washer and the nuts are galvanized. Not sure about the bolts. >> The rusted out washers could have been 42 year old stainless washers. >> Interestingly the nuts and washers are identical to what we use at my club >> to hold parts of the docks together, so I have plenty of supplies. >> >> I will order a deep socket from McMaster-Carr and try to see if I can >> loosen the nut without using an impact wrench. I do not feel comfortable >> subjecting the bilge/keel to the vibration of an impact wrench. I will have >> the other washers handy, quickly replace them and tighten the bolt back up. >> I am not sure about the torque, I will go to 100 ft-lbs until I find out >> exactly what material the bolts and nuts are. >> Does that sound about right ? Does anybody have the actual number. >> >> Again, thanks everybody for all the information >> >> *Ahmet* >> >> *Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA* >> >> *1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"* >> >> *1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"* >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 3:20 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Ahmet, >>> >>> >>> >>> I uploaded some pictures of my bilge here, >>> http://postimg.org/gallery/3eg9rsocy/ >>> >>> Let me know if the link works for you. >>> >>> >>> >>> Rick Taillieu >>> >>> Nemesis >>> >>> '75 C&C 25 #371 >>> >>> Shearwater Yacht Club >>> >>> Halifax, NS. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ahmet >>> via CnC-List >>> *Sent:* November-07-15 17:01 >>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> *Cc:* Ahmet >>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25 >>> >>> >>> >>> Thank you. I would be interested to see if you have a sump area, i.e a 3 >>> - 4 inch dropoff in the bilge which then slopes upwards towards the bow. >>> I am not sure how come that keel-bolt got exposed. >>> >>> >>> >>> I did a search for Tabasco on the list archives, and did not find any >>> references. I bought it from an older gentlemen in Marblehead, MA. >>> >>> >>> >>> He had been sailing her for a while but health issues have been >>> preventing him. The boat was neglected to some point. All the wiring was >>> laid up but not connected. The stanchions were leaking. >>> >>> >>> >>> Others have told me that too. Maybe it is a familiar sounding name. >>> >>> >>> >>> First thing I did is replace the stanchions with the aluminum toerail >>> mounted ones and used wooden dowels soaked with 4200 and marinetex to get >>> rid of all holes from he old stanctions. So now the cabin is pretty dry. >>> The hatch is leaking a bit but I think that is just the rubber gasket. >>> >>> >>> >>> He lost the rigging last year so she has brand-new rigging, double, >>> brand new heavy lifelines and a 4-stroke 2010 Nissan 9.9 hp engine. >>> >>> >>> >>> Thank You >>> >>> >>> >>> *Ahmet* >>> >>> *Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA* >>> >>> *1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"* >>> >>> *1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"* >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >>> bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- ------------------------------------------- Ahmet *"S/V Waterdancer"* 1990 Irwin 43 CC "Tabasco" 1973 C&C 25 Winthrop Yacht Club, Winthrop, MA / USA -------------------------------------------
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