The biggest difference I’ve seen is price; put the word “marine” or “boat” on anything and the cost goes up.
As with the others, I’ve had good luck with a good GFCI from Home Depot; you may need to put a bigger back-box in, though, as they don’t wire too well into standard electrical boxes as they’re so big. Also, NO WIRE NUTS!!! And you should use locking fork terminals that snap over the screws, rather than try to wrap the wire around and tighten the screw (that doesn't satisfy the ABYC standards): http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650968?src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=02650968 Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Sep 23, 2015, at 12:00 AM, Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I did the same as Jim, installed hardware store GFI outlets in both the > galley and head. Each being on different circuits. That was 8 years ago and > no issues using them on a daily basis. > Doug Mountjoy > sv Pegasus > LF38 > Ballard WA > > > Doug Mountjoy > sv Pegasus > LF38 > just west of Ballard, WA > > On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:54 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the head is not a > GFCI (as this was not required during original construction) and the > recommendation is to change it to a GFCI outlet as per ABYC standards. Is it > enough to change just the one receptacle and if so what is the difference > between a hardware store “weather proof” or a marine equivalent. A search of > the web has brought me nothing definitive although it is possible the marine > variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire vs solid wire like > would be used in a home. > > > > Bad thing is we don’t even have access to shore power on our lake…..but > standards are standards where insurance is concerned. > > > > Thanks > > David Donnelly > > C&C 26 Mistress >
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