Makes me glad i have a yanmar!  No glo-plugs, no priming pump.  Just starts.
On Aug 11, 2015 2:28 PM, "John Irvin via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Sure glad I have an Atomic 4!
> ------------------------------
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: ‎2015-‎08-‎11 12:27 PM
> To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
>
> I checked the specs of the universal glo-plugs and they average 2 ohms.
> This equates to ~6amps times 4 cylinders equals ~24amps.  That's a pretty
> good amount of current draw.  The way Maine Sailor makes it sound the panel
> is the choke point and all the current for the glo-plugs AND starter
> solenoid has to come from the panel and through various plug connectors and
> relatively small gauge wire.  Each adding it's own amount of additional
> resistance.  Not to mention poor connections, burnt contacts, and
> corrosion.  I'm not surprised at all to see the voltage dragged down enough
> to prevent the starter solenoid from being able to close.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Aug 11, 2015 11:41 AM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> In about 20 years of working on boats, mine and others’, the photo is the
>> first Universal panel I have seen with an ammeter instead of a voltmeter on
>> the panel.
>>
>>
>>
>> Of course the glow plugs will draw down the starting voltage. When you
>> power the glow plugs you are running ten amps or so across a couple
>> thousand ohms of resistance to create heat. If your battery is OK, and of
>> normal capacity, the voltage loss to the system will be negligible – maybe
>> 0.1v or less. But that happens any time you put a load on the system.
>> Doesn’t the voltage shown on your battery monitor drop from around 12.6 to
>> 12.4 or 12.5 when you turn on the lights in the cabin? Same thing.
>>
>>
>>
>> The only way that the glow plugs will cause a significant drop in the
>> starting voltage is if you have a direct short in the wiring or a defective
>> glow plug that is shorted to the engine block. Then you get a direct short
>> from battery to ground through the engine panel wiring harness, and you let
>> all the smoke out of the engine wiring harness. (Sorry, old electrical
>> engineering joke coming back to haunt me.) Which is why there is a
>> typically a 20 amp fuse in the power wire that supplies the engine panel.
>>
>>
>>
>> Putting a solenoid into the system so the button engages the solenoid and
>> the solenoid powers the glow plugs really doesn’t accomplish anything.
>> Unless you have the unlikely confluence of a short in the solenoid and a
>> short in a glow plug, in which case you get a short direct from battery to
>> ground and you let the smoke out of the whole boat.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
>> Muckley via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 11, 2015 10:03 AM
>> *To:* C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
>>
>>
>>
>> I don't have a universal or any experience with one but it sounds to me
>> like the glow plugs are drawing down the starting voltage.  I would suggest
>> installing a solenoid for the glow plugs in addition to a solenoid for the
>> starter.  The 2 articles below talk about poorly wired universal panels and
>> make similar suggestions.
>>
>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade
>>
>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solder_trouble_shooting
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Aug 11, 2015 8:50 AM, "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> The power to the starter button is supposed to come off the switched
>> terminal of the glow plug button.  You are supposed to to have to push the
>> glow plug switch and the starter switch every time you start, as the glow
>> plug switch also powers both the electric fuel pump until the oil pressure
>> builds up, and silences the low oil pressure alarm.  Once the oil pressure
>> rises, its switch powers the fuel pump.
>>
>> I put an M30B in our club launch and it has the same setup.
>>
>> Neil Gallagher
>> Weatherly, 35-1
>> Glen Cove, NY
>>
>> On 8/10/2015 11:15 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine
>> will not start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into
>> shore power.  The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30
>> seconds and then while continuing to hold that button in, push the start
>> button.  When I do that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the
>> glow plug button and push the start button the engine starts fine.  My
>> father (retired electrical engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in
>> this case but sounds good) spent some time trying to diagnose the problem
>> this weekend and found two interesting things:
>>
>>
>>
>> 1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.  We
>> then tested power at the engine.  There is a heavy red cable coming from
>> the battery to the starter measured 12V.  The red-yellow wire from the
>> start button is attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring
>> diagram in the manual does not show a solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts
>> at the solenoid when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else.
>> So that probably explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter
>> won’t work at the same time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the
>> solenoid.  I will pull the starter next winter and have someone test it
>> unless someone has an alternative suggestion.
>>
>>
>>
>> 2.  The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power
>> from the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from
>> the other lead to the start button.  The manual shows that wire running
>> from the downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button
>> should only be energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual
>> describes).  If that were the case, the I would not be able to start the
>> engine with only the start button.  Nevertheless, it does start the
>> engine.  Tracing the wires, we found that the bridging wire actually came
>> from the hot side of the glow plug switch, so that either button will work
>> independently as both are always powered.  What I don’t understand is why
>> you would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since that would
>> remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in an
>> already warm engine).  I don’t know if the PO or some yard mechanic made
>> that change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual, so I am curious how
>> other Universal panels are wired.  The way it is actually wired makes more
>> sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am missing something.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks- Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> Aries
>>
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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