My heat exchanger on a Universal M4-30 has caps on the ends. I remove the 
single 9/16" cap screw on each end cap and remove them exposing the tubes. The 
raw water is what leaks out. The antifreeze is inside the shell, and it doesn't 
leak out. I rod out the tubes using small 1/8" wooden dowels I get from hobby 
stores like Michaels or even WalMart. I'd love to find pipe cleaners but 
haven't found them long enough. My heat exchanger is about 13" long so I buy 
the 3' long dowels and break em in half, and keep em in my spare engine parts 
container onboard. I do this once a season and for twelve years it seems to 
work well, reusing the OEM rubber gasket on each end. My heat exchanger has a 
pencil zinc that needs to be changed each spring. 

The inside of the shell can be acid cleaned to improve heat transfer. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 10:16:01 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger 



First, I would try to suck/siphon enough coolant out and save it for reuse. 
Second, without the end bells on the core is removable. In fact in dire 
straights you can do so to make your fresh water cooled into a raw water 
cooled. That being said, I don't think you can remove the end bells without 
causing coolant to leak. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
As I progress through my cooling system I will have to clean out the heat 
exchanger on our 3HM35. I have a simple question, not covered in the repair 
manual I have... 

Can it be cleaned in place once the end caps are removed? And, if so, does this 
mean I don't have the drain the coolant? 

thx 

Tom Buscaglia 
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40 
Vashon WA 
P 206.463.9200 
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