Since your zinc was completely gone, I’d take it to a rad shop and have them replace the seals, boil it and pressure test it ... and I bet they’d replace the zinc too. Peace of mind!
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 6:01 AM To: David Knecht ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger Only the threads on the cap hold the zinc in my M4-30 heat exchanger and the zinc pencil is treaded into the bronze cap so the cap is reusable. Despite that the engine is fresh water cooled and charged with a 50/50 water antifreeze mix I change the zinc pencil about every 2 years and I use teflon tape on the cap treads that meet up with the heat exchanger...the zincs are only partially eaten away after 2 years and could probably go longer but why try for longer, they are inexpensive to replace. I find it better to shorten the zinc pencils to about 1 inch or so showing above the treads, that makes installation from underneathe easier for me. Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Thu, Apr 2, 2015 at 9:08 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Last weekend I managed to take the heat exchanger off my Universal M4-30 in order to figure out why it was leaking antifreeze. The trick that seemed to get the bolt I was having trouble with unstuck was heat from a grill lighter. Now that I have it home, I am going to replace the seals and O rings from the end caps. The zinc was completely gone, so doing that as well. I took the cap off the zinc but an inner threaded part stayed in place and nothing is sticking into the exchanger except the nub of zinc. 1. Am I right in presuming that nothing is holding it in there except gunk and corrosion and I can bang it out from the outside? This may be more obvious when I have the new part. 2. When I replace it, should I put something like Tefgel/Marelube on the threads or Loctite? 3. The larger problem is that several of the ports for tubing connections are seriously out of round as if they were mashed at some point (I don’t see how could have done it so I am blaming the proverbial PO). Should I worry about this and presume the clamp and flexibility of the tubing will seal (it seemed the end cap that was leaking, not the tubing ports) or is there some way to round the soft brass of the ports? Thanks as always- Dave . Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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