Edd — as usual, Rich is smack on. And the color code for conductors, while fairly widely used, isn’t a sure-fire way to identify wiring. For that, you need to use the letters either stamped or molded into the alternator case to know what terminal does what. Usually the output will be marked “B” or “BATT”. And I completely agree with Rich that you should go with 6AWG and something like a 50-amp fuse or breaker on the alternator output (assuming you’re using the stock 35-amp Hitachi that comes on most of our smaller Yanmars).
Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On May 4, 2015, at 6:03 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The large wire, orange or otherwise, that connects the alternator output post > to the post on the solenoid where the battery is connected should be > disconnected from the alternator. It can be removed completely. Then connect > the alternator output to the house bank. Since the wire run will likely be > longer to the battery than it was to the starter, I recommend using heavier > wire to reduce voltage drop. I suggest using 6 AWG wire. Make sure you are > using good crimping tools and that the wire is physically tied off to the > engine near the alternator so that the terminal is not exposed to vibration. > > The other wire on the solenoid battery terminal or possibly on the alternator > output terminal will be the wire to the instrument cluster that enables > engine start and the gauges. Ideally that should be fed from the engine start > battery which will be tied to the solenoid. > > Rich Knowles > Nanaimo, BC > INDIGO LF38 > Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
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