Phil:

I just did this replacement last winter in my LF38.  I had my boat yard do it 
but I could have done it myself if I had enough time.  The partial bulkhead 
just in front of the tank has to be completely removed--a Fein saw works great 
for this!  Then you have to remove the water heater and part of the bulkhead 
behind the water heater--this creates the space to remove the old tank and put 
in a new one.  The tank can be purchased from Florida Marine Tanks in Henderson 
NC and they can go by the numbers on the tank's nameplate.  The original tank 
is only 0.090 inches thick--i upgraded to 1/4 inch for the replacement (about 
$500) because I never want to do it again.  Of course, the bulkhead in front of 
the tank has to go back in--we made a new one from a thick fiberglass panel and 
glassed it in place.  (I have pictures on my blog of the replacement process.)

There is a lot more to this than meets the eye since there is a lot of wiring 
that has to be removed and reinstalled as well.

I also ran into broken motor mounts and a loose prop strut that had to be fixed 
at the same time.

If you have a reputable boat yard do this work, you are looking at $10k plus 
the cost of the tank.  Hartge's Yacht Yard in Galesville did my replacement.

You welcome to come and look at my installation sometime.  I live in Annapolis 
but keep my boat is Galesville.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On May 3, 2015, at 10:17 AM, Phil via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> My fuel tank on my LF 38 began leaking pretty badly recently.   I pumped out 
> all of the diesel.  What are my options for replacement?  Should I replace 
> with a stock sized tank or go another route?  Is this something I can do 
> myself? 
> 
> -Phil James
> 1982 C&C LF 38
> Annapolis, MD
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