Well, I was using Finite Element Analysis in the early seventies; Cassion was
an aeronautical engineer (I think) so he’d know how to do it.
But you’re right, I doubt they got into that much detail back then.
…but then again these are still pretty hot boats!!!
sam :-)
From: Graham Collins
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 3:51 PM
To: Sam Salter, CnC
Maybe, but the 80s was the infancy of finite element design - which one would
want to use to properly evaluate the stiffening effects of rigid windows.
Given that using computers for hull layout was new I really doubt that this is
an engineered in property. Maybe Rob can comment on that?
As a mechanical engineer I can say I've replaced my windows using Sika, and am
happy with that decision.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-02-12 5:17 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:
Engineers know stuff!
sam :-)
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 12:15 PM
To: Rick Brass; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41
Rick
Is it really true that the designers at C&C expected glued on acryllic ports to
stiffen the whole boat
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I consider to be less
stylish but much more practical, so I'm basically just an interested onlooker
to this discussion. But it seems to me a point made several years ago in a
similar thread has been lost here.
The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and helped to
stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat.
Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better part of 30 years
on our old boats. And the comments about damaging gel oat when removing old
portlights speaks to its tenacity as an adhesive.
Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and sealers. (And also a
PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using the primer.) I used Sika 295 on
my rebuilt hatches, and it is great for car windshields (which are bedded in
rubber so the window does not crack as the car body flexes) but it remains
flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've gotten the
impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to leaks in a few years, and
polycarbonate portlights held in by screws tend to get cracks at the stress
points.
As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight solutions and
I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not stylish aluminum frames. I
just wanted to remind the group about why the frameless portlights were glued
in by C&C in the first place.
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 8, 2015, at 20:38, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last Spring. We used 3M
fuselage tape - and although the prep was a lot of work, we are very pleased
with the end result.
All the best,
Edd
-------------------------------
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
-------------------------------
914.332.4400 | Office
914.774.9767 | Mobile
-------------------------------
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
On Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would definitely need the
screws/bolts.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were attached by screws?
What about bolts all the way through to some nice wood trim that would "clamp"
the cabin top sides between the windows and interior trim?
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