Good sailmakers will suggest a dogbone, a strip
of wbbing with an O-ring on each end through the
reef grommet or ring. They might sew one side
for you and have you hand stitch the other ring
on. It's MUCH easier to get that ring on your
hook. Or you can use a cunningham with a hook
like this,
http://www.atlanticriggingsupply.com/wi2snho.html
to pull it down with. Course we are so poor, I
just take a scrap line down under the gooseneck
and around the front of the mast an quickly tie
it down and raise the halyard. What ever works.
. .
I use my Cunningham when I reef to reduce
pressure on the double hook thing above the
gooseneck.
That being said, I don't think my double hook
thing (tack hook) has ever been properly
installed since I've owned the boat. It's a
stainless rod that becomes the hinge pin of the
gooseneck and has a very small hole through it
at the bottom where I place a small washer and
split pin to hold it in place. Without the
Cunningham in place the upward tension on the
luff of the main places a lot of load on this
little pin and I have had one break while reefed
after forgetting the Cunningham. This resulted
in gooseneck separation which killed my race as
fitting it all back together in 25 knots with a
boom kicker is nearly impossible without taking
everything apart.
What is the proper configuration of this little
double hook thing (tack hook)? Is there
something better than a split pin for this?
Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Chuck S via
CnC-List
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
FWIW, I agree with Antoine's description of
using the Cunningham and Flattening Reef.
These tweaks are used similarly on all
mainsails, from dinghies to bigger keel boats.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List"
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: "David Paine"
<<mailto:paineda...@gmail.com>paineda...@gmail.com>,
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham
Hi David,
To answer your question, we need to go back a
bit to the origin the cunningham. Well, the
main sail is up and properly tensioned, which
mean that the halyard point is close to the
mast top block to use the full length of your
mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is
needed on the halyard. As wind increases, more
is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully
tensioned but the wind still get a bit
stronger, but not enough to reef and, since
you're racing you don't want to give any water
to that boat just beside yours. As the wind
increases, the sail draft moves back,
increasing heeling and reducing speed.
Tensioning the cunningham does just that,
bringing the draft forward for two reasons: it
increases the tensioning but also, because the
cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the sail,
pull forward the main foot.
Having the grommet has another advantage. If
you have a corresponding grommet on the leach
side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry,
don't how it's called in English, "ris de fond"
in French). This very small reef does not
reduce substantially the size of the sail but
removes much of the draft. A flatter main
points higher and reduce heeling.
Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :
> Hi All,
I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to
ask a ridiculous-sounding question. Do you
have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?
I do not in my current sail but that is
because Hood made the sail with a jack line
(or lace line) which serves the purpose. My
new sail definitely won't have a jack-line.
Some adjust luff tension with the halyard,
others use a separate Cunningham grommet with
a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham
line to a winch) to set the luff tension. My
sailmaker has an opinion but my question is,
which do you use? The Cunningham is useless
when reefed, of course.
>
Cheers,
David
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