Chuck.....thanks for the good suggestion.....just finished torqing my bolts
.....can easily see why you had a custom set made. To you guys who do this by
yourself....you are more of a man than me....it took 2 of us to get to the
proper torque....so happy to have this task finished. Also, was a surprise
that several of the nuts backed off fairly easily, so definately a good time to
get this done.
Thanks again to everyone for your help.
Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
LF 39
Rockport, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck S via CnC-List
To: Michael Brown ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2014 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts
I once had a set of sockets made up for my boat. Bought a cheap set of 3/4"
and 1" drive sockets from Harbor Freight and paid a welder friend to cut them
in half and weld pipe between the two halves. 7" deep sockets. I gave them to
the marina mechanic with the agreement that he could use them and owners could
borrow them.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:25:57 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts
Check the amount of bolt sticking out. You may need a deep
or extra deep socket. If the nut is 1 1/2" the bolt is 1" and
requires 350 ft/lbs of torque. To me that would be a 1" drive
and at least an 18" bar.
As a start I would recommend borrowing or renting the
appropriate socket, short extension and a 24" bar. Brace yourself
and give it a really hard pull. 175 pounds of force is a lot, not
too risky that you are going to exceed it by much.
If you get any movement of the nut then you have an issue
and should consider backing off the nuts, cleaning everything
and torquing them correctly.
If there is no movement of any of the nuts you may still
want to clean and re-torque them for piece of mind. Some
points to check is both the face of the nut and the matching
washer need to be clean and smooth. Also square.
I have a 1" drive set with deep sockets so have checked
or helped re-torque a few keels. A few have been loose,
maybe that way for years, but have not exhibited any problems.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 11:42:57 -0700
From: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts
Message-ID:
<mailman.10915.1413573802.4799.cnc-list_cnc-list....@cnc-list.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed"
Hi Lloyd,
Sounds like you have a good mechanic.
Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off &
re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry
& clean or lubricated?
We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would
check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight
on first go, but stop at movement.
But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs.
I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use
an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that
torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension).
KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote:
>
>Hello Listers,
>
>While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and
>understand 250 lbs is needed. Boat mechanic says it is very
>difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge. Anyone ever
>used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side
>pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench.
>
>Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then
>re-tightening. That does not sound good to me. Any thought on his
suggestion.
>
>I thank any responses in advance.... always appreciate the help.
>
>Lloyd Lippe
>Finesse
>LF39
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