My old engine was a Yanmar 2gm. " The shiftier was stiff on this engine as
well"
I installed the new 2GM20F and the same problem " Stiff shiftier"

My shift cable is in the Stainless steal 1/2" leg and not inside the
binnacle.
Thanks for your help I'm not sure which cable to buy? The red cable or find
a black one like is in the boat now? The one in the boat is more heave
duty.




On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 7:37 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> > But when I hook them up it takes a lot of pressure to move
>
> If the cable is worn or damaged inside it will still likely work reasonable
> well with no load on it, ie disconnected from the transmission.
>
> What engine do you have?
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
>
>
> Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 11:07:28 -0400
> From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
> To: "Curtis" <cpt.b...@gmail.com>,     <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Use standard push/pull cables?
> Message-ID: <64B00EE9B7AA4D91A1796577FE661724@GaryPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> There's a little "L" bracket in the stainless tube which holds the cable
> (I only know of the throttle, as the shift seems to be OK, but I replaced
> the throttle). I seem to remember it is held by the screw near the top
> wooden support, but yours could be different. I'll look today.
>
> There is nothing at the lever end which should cause resistance. The
> levers are just pivoted on a shaft.
>
> You have to pull the top of the binnacle up to get the cable out, the
> plate is held by the three screw headed bolts. Once they are removed, you
> can get to the shaft which holds the lever, remove the little cotter pin
> (careful, it can get lost) and remove the lever. The cable end is a
> fork-like piece and is held by a little shaft with another cotter pin. It
> was pretty straight forward once I got the three screws (actually five,
> there are two on the side screwed into the stainless tube) out.
>
> You may have the same problem I did - the cable rusted from the inside and
> started to disintegrate - it eventually came apart and I had to hold it
> together with duct tape and some plastic spiral cable wrap until I could
> get a replacement. The inside cable was OK, but the outer sheathing came
> apart and when it could no longer hold the cable, there was nothing to push
> against.... fun!
>
> Gary
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: Curtis via CnC-List
>  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>  Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 8:05 AM
>  Subject: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Use standard push/pull cables?
>
>
>  I have just installed a new tome engine in my 30MK1 The shift cable is
> good condition. Disconnected from the shift lever, I get smooth action all
> the way threw the stroke. The shift lever on the tranny smooth as well, But
> when I hook them up it takes a lot of pressure to move? The old engine I
> just took out was a bit hard to shift as well? Me binnacle has a main post
> with the chain going to the steering under the cockpit. My fuel cable or my
> shift cable don't go through the main pedestal.  My cables go through the
> Stainless steel post that mount to the floor, behind the center post. My
> cables are thicker than the red cables at the local boat store? And seem to
> be of better quality. I found on my cable written (10-75) and that's all?
> Can I use the red style to replace the. What holds the Cable sheath inside
> the SS tube? How do you replace it? I can see no mounting of the sheath? I
> only see the threaded end at the bottom of the shifter knob?
>
>  Any help on this would be great. Has anybody had this problem? I need
> help. I have spent 4 evenings working on it moving it around trying to
> re-adjust it. I'm at my end??
>  Help...
>  Thanks, Curtis
>
>  1981 C&C 30 MK1 (675)
>
>
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