Chuck, Couple more pointers.
Check your shore power supply cable for size. Hopefully it's sized for the draw and run. Consider a nice stainless fitting for your discharge. I installed a plastic one when I put in the AC many years ago. When I had the boat painted 2 years ago, I changed all the above waterline fittings to stainless. They make the boat look soooo much better. I also installed a 1/4 turn valve on the discharge thruhull. Sometimes the AC cooling water intake gets plugged. On Touche', it's almost always something in the elbow on the intake thruhull. Never makes it to the strainer. I have a tee on the discharge of the pump where I can hook up a dock hose. I close the discharge valve and blow the pluggage out backwards through the intake. Then I close the intake, open the discharge and flush the line forward through the discharge. This lets me blow out any pluggage, sediment, etc. both forward and backwards. The AC has its own dedicated intake thruhull. It's faired for racing. Don't go small on the cool air discharge side. The more air you can move through the unit, the better it will cool. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 8:54 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: > Good point. > For the last 10 years, I rarely plug in at the dock, except occassionally > for the battery charger, or a laptop, or a TV to watch Americas Cup. I > live 30 minutes away from the boat, so we would daysail and rarely > overnight, and the boat is setup with solar fans and battery powered LED > lights so could live comfortably on a mooring. > > Air Conditioning on the boat, will be a luxury I'm not used to, but a > neccessity since I'm keeping her 3 hrs away this season and there I'll want > to overnight on weekends and want all the rest of the electrics to work > too. I'll have to check the amp draw on the other stuff and see what I can > load up. > > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Atlantic City, NJ > ------------------------------ > *From: *j...@svpaws.net > *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Sent: *Sunday, February 16, 2014 8:57:36 PM > > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit > > Just remember that what these things draw when running is very different > than the load when the compressor first starts up. The 16 could easily > draw north of 20 amps for a short period. Plan accordingly. Not sure what > else you're running but 30 amps can go quick. > > John > > > Sent from my iPad > > On Feb 16, 2014, at 8:35 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: > > Thanks for all the great responses. > Might get a generator onboard someday, but for now I'm planning on setting > up our AC to run on shore power only. If we want AC, I'll plan to stay at > a marina. > The 16000 needs 12 amps, the 12000 needs 9 amps, 30% less power > consumption but still too much for my battery banks. > > Josh, Shades for the windows are a great idea! My boat has none and > suffers for it. > > Dennis, your reply reminds me how the water temperature effects capacity > also. I plan to keep the boat in Annapolis this season, so I think I'll be > ordering the 16k. > > Thanks all, > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Atlantic City, NJ > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Dennis Cheuvront" <capt...@gmail.com> > *To: *"CnClist" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Sent: *Sunday, February 16, 2014 6:54:12 PM > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit > > I have a 16KBTU Cruisair on Touche' No doubt in my mind you need a 16KBTU > if you're anywhere south of the Mason-Dixon line. > > It can hold mid 70's inside up to about 90F outside. Above that, it holds > high 70's. That's with a head start. That is, if it was on all night and > we got the boat temp down into the 60's prior to sun up. > > If you're starting mid-afternoon with outside temps in the 90's, you'll > take a couple hours to break 80F inside. > > Also Touche's forward hatch is fiberglass, the midships and companionway > hatches are white translucent. Clear hatches will let a lot more heat in. > > There's also the reliability factor. I'd rather have a larger unit > humming merrily along than a smaller unit struggling and running more hours. > > One of the more overlooked factors is the size and run of the cooling > water hose. Bigger is better. It WILL make a difference. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: > >> Hey listers, >> >> A friend says 12000BTU is the right size for my 36 footer. He speaks >> from experience so I value his opinion. >> But it's February, I got time, and I just want to be sure, cause a 16000 >> fits in the same space and I don't want to be undersized. >> >> FWIW, Defender is showing my unit on "Miami Boat Show" sale for the same >> price it appears in their 2014 catalogue. I love Defender, but damn, >> that's sleezy. I was hoping to get this installed before Spring, but guess >> I'll wait till their March Madness Sale? >> >> Chuck >> Resolute >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Atlantic City, NJ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >
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