Jake,

The drive saver is just a thin (1/2") intermediate piece of plastic right?
Why did you have to shorten the shaft?  Nice idea using a grinder.  I would
have been scared out of my mind!

Josh
On Dec 12, 2013 7:45 PM, "Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net> wrote:

> Josh,
>
>
>
> Good job on the replacements.  I know it couldn’t have been easy with the
> access you have.  I used Yanmar mounts when I replaced mine.  It was very
> simple.   I have the PYI drive saver.  I had to cut the prop shaft to
> install it.  While I did the cutting on my own, I would recommend a machine
> shop do it because it involve recutting a keyway for the shaft collar.  I
> used a 4 ¼” grinder to cut the keyway.  Quick and effective, but far from
> ideal.  Time constraints make you do strange things sometimes…  No issues
> though.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton Va*
>
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:29 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions.  I could have used the
> basketball trick and will keep that in my bag of tricks.  Aside from
> manipulating the mounts into position (straps, jacks and lots of grunting)
> everything else went unremarkable.  I left the aluminum rails in place but
> removed the polyethylene blocks (spacers) from the front.  With the jack
> nuts all the way down the elignment came in almost perfect.  I have a PYI
> shaft seal so there seemed to be quite a bit of "wiggle room".  I did
> everything I could to get the shaft centered but it didn't seem to make
> much difference.  I do plan to install a PYI shaft coupling that allows up
> to 1mm of misalignment, though it don't think it is anywhere close to being
> outside of the prescribed 0.3mm.
>
> I posted some pictures of the completed job, the original mounts, and some
> stock photos.  The original mounts are made by Vetus and are marketed to be
> very good at dampening noise.  Though they don't seem to be very good at
> resisting break down. :-/  And they are quite expensive.
>
> https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit
>
> Lingering questions still exsist regarding torque specs and the design of
> the boat's foundation.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> I replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or
> five).  I also use the Drive Saver from PYI.  Self-aligned and no issues to
> date.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton Va*
>
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rich
> Knowles
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>
>
>
> Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible
> mounts and a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no
> problems.  Others may wish to comment.
>
> Rich
>
>
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman <donrnew...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Good post Rick, but one quibble.
>
> If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible
> coupling and vice versa.
>
>
>
> I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling
> destroyed itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.
>  Everything was aligned but the two components worked against each other.
>
>
>
> I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide
> a reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a
> solid mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so
> I used the very substantial coupling.
>
>
>
>
> Don Newman
>
> C&C 44
>
>
>
>
>
>
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