Dennis, why would you put an insulating material (Tef Gel) between the two elements that have to have good electrical contact? Seems a little counterintuitive to me.
I stopped whacking the zincs with a hammer a few years ago and haven't had any problems with zincs not staying on/bonded. One extra step I do is to paint the "bridge" between the two halves of the zinc with bottom paint so that the thinnest part of the zinc, where the fasteners go through, is protected from attack. If that bridge goes the zinc falls off the shaft. Also, I keep the zincs far enough away from the strut so that I have enough room to get the coupler off the gearbox and the gearbox off the engine. I had to hire a diver once to move zincs so I could get the gearbox off for some work. On 26 November 2013 09:59, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote: > Right or wrong here's how I install shaft zincs on Touche'. > > > 1. Use a good brand of zinc with a copper contact. I like Camp zincs > 2. Use emery cloth to make shaft bright > 3. Apply a small amount of TefGel to the copper contact > 4. Place zinc on shaft forward of the strut. Leave 1/2 to 1 shaft > diameter space to allow water to flow into cutless bearing > 5. Tighten the zinc's fasteners evenly. > 6. Rotate shaft until one of the copper contact flats is at the bottom > 7. Whack it firmly with a hammer to set the contact against the > shaft. Note: striking upward reduces the side loading on the strut which > may break the sealant or damage the strut > 8. Rotate shaft 180 degrees and whack the other contact > 9. Tighten the fasteners again > > I usually install a second zinc immediately forward of the first and > rotated 90 degrees. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC
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