If you can take the two broken pieces off you might be able to place them in order to accurately measure. The Edson website is unwieldy to say the least but under the technical links there are many catalogs for older systems that picture the systems with their corresponding part number. I think its probably an Edson but i hope not for your sake Edson wanted to sell us a whole new steering system recently when we only needed a clutch cable and linkages and some small parts. BLHickson Fellers '76 33-1 "Flight Risk"
Sent from the Mars Rover. On Jun 25, 2013, at 8:11 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to > cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Fw: 29-2 keel bolts (Persuasion) > 2. Re: 29-2 keel bolts (Bill Bina) > 3. Re: 29-2 keel bolts (kirk sneddon) > 4. Re: 29-2 keel bolts (Brent Driedger) > 5. Re: 29-2 keel bolts (kirk sneddon) > 6. Steering Quadrant (Damien Morrissey) > 7. Re: Steering Quadrant (dwight veinot) > 8. Re: Steering Quadrant (Richard N. Bush) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 19:03:20 -0400 > From: "Persuasion" <persuasio...@gmail.com> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Stus-List Fw: 29-2 keel bolts > Message-ID: <55C4F8C571C04E6193CA19E07F4CB6A0@Maris> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Bob > > Several years ago a friend of mine sailing out of Whitby Yacht club had a > relatively minor grounding (his words). No visible damage but on > recommendations of other friends he pull his boat and there was considerable > damage to ribs. Something about the deep keel and relatively short base. > For piece of mind I get someone to look at it. > > It?s kind of ironic that after years of stalling your channel finally gets > dredged and you ground your boat on the spoils. Hopefully the rock in the > middle is gone. > > Mike > S/V Persuasion > C&C 37 Keel/CB > Long Sault > > From: Bob Hickson > Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:08 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts > > I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago. > > Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts > / mast step. > > The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is > currently under re-construction and dredging. > > Three weeks ago, I hit a ?pile of mud / sand? that they had left in the > middle of the channel at 5.5 knots. > > The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe > and it threw the entire crew off our feet. > > Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ? hour) around all the keel > bolts. > > There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural ?egg crate? > inside the hull. > > Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at > the rear edge of the keel > > Was very surprised to see a ? inch bolt in a 1? hole with no filler or > sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt. > > You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt > without felling any sealant at all. > > This seems very strange....I would expect some kind of sealant to be present > around the bolt? > > Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap > around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall? > > If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time. > > > > > > Best regards, > > Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA > > C&C 29-2 Flying Colours > > Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club > > Pickering, ON > > (416) 919-2297 > > bobhick...@rogers.com > > > > ~~~~ __/) ~~~~ > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130624/7b179118/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 20:35:53 -0400 > From: Bill Bina <billb...@sbcglobal.net> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts > Message-ID: <51c8e5e9.4080...@sbcglobal.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed > > I would resist the urge to fill those holes with anything. Access to > oxygen is what keeps those stainless steel bolts from corroding. Add > sealant, and you could cause a much greater problem than the one you > have now. If you have water coming in from the keel joint, that is where > you need to address it. From then outside. Honestly? I'd haul the boat > and have someone with a lot of experience examine the damage. > > Bill Bina > > On 6/24/2013 6:08 PM, Bob Hickson wrote: >> >> I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago. >> >> Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the >> keel bolts / mast step. >> >> The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is >> currently under re-construction and dredging. >> >> Three weeks ago, I hit a ?pile of mud / sand? that they had left in >> the middle of the channel at 5.5 knots. >> >> The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively >> severe and it threw the entire crew off our feet. >> >> Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ? hour) around all the >> keel bolts. >> >> There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural ?egg >> crate? inside the hull. >> >> Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 >> inch) at the rear edge of the keel >> >> Was very surprised to see a ? inch bolt in a 1? hole with no filler or >> sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt. >> >> You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside >> the bolt without felling any sealant at all. >> >> This seems very strange....I would expect some kind of sealant to be >> present around the bolt? >> >> Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled >> gap around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in >> the fall? >> >> If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time. >> >> Best regards, >> >> *Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA* >> >> */C&C 29-2 Flying Colours/* >> >> */Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club/* >> >> */Pickering, ON/* >> >> *(416) 919-2297* >> >> *bobhick...@rogers.com <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com>* >> >> ** >> > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 22:14:06 -0400 > From: kirk sneddon <kirksned...@optonline.net> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts > Message-ID: <009001ce7149$ab8eb210$02ac1630$@net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Bob, > > > > I bought my 29 Mk II in the fall of 2006. I suspected at the time that it > may had been grounded. The surveyor inspected it on the hard and said no. It > looked from the outside like a few cracks in the gelcoat. Ha! In retrospect > I should have trusted my instincts. > > > > Typically grounding damage will be more severe at the back end of the keel > where it meets the hull as there is a buckling/compression loads maximize at > this location. The narrow aft section of the stub keel on the 29 makes it > susceptible. > > > > I had ?gel coat cracks? at the front and back of the stub keel > > > > I ended up grinding out the front and back end of my keel, which was done in > stages. The front was re-laminated out from the inner pan. We did this after > year 1. The aft end was also ground from inside and outside. There was some > very shabby repair work back there. While we were at it the entire keel box > and grid were reinforced. We did this last fall. The front and back of my > keel are now Pearson Triton thickness and I have a bone dry bilge. We > learned more about the laminate about the stub keel/keel box of the 29 than > I ever wanted to know. > > > > I have seen two other 29?s with clearance around the ? keel bolt that you > describe. Mine had the clearance, but I attributed that to the fact the > original repair done in the yard in NH was not well executed. > > > > The advice from others on the site is sound. You would be best doing a short > haul and inspecting from the outside. The damage could propagate, in best > case adding to the cost of a future repair and potentially, putting you in a > situation that could worsen quickly at a time not of your choosing. > > > > Unfortunately I didn?t take pictures, but you can call me to discuss the > configuration of the stub keel and bolts as the painful memories are forever > seared into my mind. > > > > My cell is 516-669-2385 > > > > Sorry to hear about your experience. The upside is that with modern > materials ( epoxy and biaxial cloths), it can be made better than new. No > indictment of the fine work done at the C&C factories intended. > > > > Kirk Sneddon > > C&C 29 Mk II ? Flying Cloud > > > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob > Hickson > Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts > > > > I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago. > > Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel > bolts / mast step. > > The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is > currently under re-construction and dredging. > > Three weeks ago, I hit a ?pile of mud / sand? that they had left in the > middle of the channel at 5.5 knots. > > The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe > and it threw the entire crew off our feet. > > Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ? hour) around all the keel > bolts. > > There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural ?egg crate? > inside the hull. > > Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at > the rear edge of the keel > > Was very surprised to see a ? inch bolt in a 1? hole with no filler or > sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt. > > You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt > without felling any sealant at all. > > This seems very strange....I would expect some kind of sealant to be present > around the bolt? > > Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap > around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall? > > If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time. > > > > > > Best regards, > > Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA > > C&C 29-2 Flying Colours > > Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club > > Pickering, ON > > (416) 919-2297 > > <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com> bobhick...@rogers.com > > > > ~~~~ __/) ~~~~ > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130624/4575e763/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 21:36:02 -0500 > From: Brent Driedger <bren...@highspeedcrow.ca> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts > Message-ID: <f8c62843-e9e8-4f14-b199-03a9b9791...@highspeedcrow.ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Kirk, > I'd be interested to know how you reinforced the grid. The yard that repaired > my 27 after the PO tried to rip the keel off did a shoddy job that I spent a > lot of time on. The grid crosses the bilge box in two places And is in the > shape of a flanged C channel with the flat part up serving as a place to > screw the floor down to. > The yard sliced off one of the sides of the channel in two spots over the > bilge producing a weakened structure which I have not fixed yet. 5 years of > hard racing and large lake swells has not resulted on any issues yet but it's > something I'd like to fix anyway. > > Brent Driedger > C&C 27 mkV > s/v Wild Rover > Lake Winnipeg > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 2013-06-24, at 9:14 PM, kirk sneddon <kirksned...@optonline.net> wrote: > >> Bob, >> >> I bought my 29 Mk II in the fall of 2006. I suspected at the time that it >> may had been grounded. The surveyor inspected it on the hard and said no. It >> looked from the outside like a few cracks in the gelcoat. Ha! In retrospect >> I should have trusted my instincts. >> >> Typically grounding damage will be more severe at the back end of the keel >> where it meets the hull as there is a buckling/compression loads maximize at >> this location. The narrow aft section of the stub keel on the 29 makes it >> susceptible. >> >> I had ?gel coat cracks? at the front and back of the stub keel >> >> I ended up grinding out the front and back end of my keel, which was done in >> stages. The front was re-laminated out from the inner pan. We did this after >> year 1. The aft end was also ground from inside and outside. There was some >> very shabby repair work back there. While we were at it the entire keel box >> and grid were reinforced. We did this last fall. The front and back of my >> keel are now Pearson Triton thickness and I have a bone dry bilge. We >> learned more about the laminate about the stub keel/keel box of the 29 than >> I ever wanted to know. >> >> I have seen two other 29?s with clearance around the ? keel bolt that you >> describe. Mine had the clearance, but I attributed that to the fact the >> original repair done in the yard in NH was not well executed. >> >> The advice from others on the site is sound. You would be best doing a short >> haul and inspecting from the outside. The damage could propagate, in best >> case adding to the cost of a future repair and potentially, putting you in a >> situation that could worsen quickly at a time not of your choosing. >> >> Unfortunately I didn?t take pictures, but you can call me to discuss the >> configuration of the stub keel and bolts as the painful memories are forever >> seared into my mind. >> >> My cell is 516-669-2385 >> >> Sorry to hear about your experience. The upside is that with modern >> materials ( epoxy and biaxial cloths), it can be made better than new. No >> indictment of the fine work done at the C&C factories intended. >> >> Kirk Sneddon >> C&C 29 Mk II ? Flying Cloud >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob >> Hickson >> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts >> >> I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago. >> Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel >> bolts / mast step. >> The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is >> currently under re-construction and dredging. >> Three weeks ago, I hit a ?pile of mud / sand? that they had left in the >> middle of the channel at 5.5 knots. >> The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe >> and it threw the entire crew off our feet. >> Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ? hour) around all the keel >> bolts. >> There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural ?egg crate? >> inside the hull. >> Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at >> the rear edge of the keel >> Was very surprised to see a ? inch bolt in a 1? hole with no filler or >> sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt. >> You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt >> without felling any sealant at all. >> This seems very strange....I would expect some kind of sealant to be present >> around the bolt? >> Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap >> around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall? >> If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time. >> >> >> Best regards, >> Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA >> C&C 29-2 Flying Colours >> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club >> Pickering, ON >> (416) 919-2297 >> bobhick...@rogers.com >> >> ~~~~ __/) ~~~~ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130624/93791a55/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:14:12 -0400 > From: kirk sneddon <kirksned...@optonline.net> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts > Message-ID: <000901ce7152$10ebf840$32c3e8c0$@net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > In the keel sumps, we re-laminated the corners, building them up so that > there are far more generous corner radii and a gradual transition to the > thickness of the keel box away from the corners > > > > On the c-channels we built up the sides and lengthened the > transitions/tabbing to the hull. We staggered the ply drops so there was no > hard transitions/step changes in thickness. > > > > On the repair of the c-channel you can lay in some rigid foam to give you a > backing surface to work with. Grind the prep surface around where you are > making the repair, leaving yourself a long scarf so that you have a lot of > bond area. Stagger the ply drops ( size of the layers of the cloth used for > the patch.) The modern epoxies are amazing. They bond to pretty much any well > prepped surfaces such as the polyester resin glass laminates on our boats and > are quite strong. The slow cure epoxies give you some more time to work, and > won?t as readily exotherm when you are trying to build thickness. > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > Kirk Sneddon > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent > Driedger > Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 10:36 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts > > > > Hi Kirk, > > I'd be interested to know how you reinforced the grid. The yard that repaired > my 27 after the PO tried to rip the keel off did a shoddy job that I spent a > lot of time on. The grid crosses the bilge box in two places And is in the > shape of a flanged C channel with the flat part up serving as a place to > screw the floor down to. > > The yard sliced off one of the sides of the channel in two spots over the > bilge producing a weakened structure which I have not fixed yet. 5 years of > hard racing and large lake swells has not resulted on any issues yet but it's > something I'd like to fix anyway. > > > > Brent Driedger > > C&C 27 mkV > > s/v Wild Rover > > Lake Winnipeg > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On 2013-06-24, at 9:14 PM, kirk sneddon <kirksned...@optonline.net> wrote: > > Bob, > > > > I bought my 29 Mk II in the fall of 2006. I suspected at the time that it may > had been grounded. The surveyor inspected it on the hard and said no. It > looked from the outside like a few cracks in the gelcoat. Ha! In retrospect > I should have trusted my instincts. > > > > Typically grounding damage will be more severe at the back end of the keel > where it meets the hull as there is a buckling/compression loads maximize at > this location. The narrow aft section of the stub keel on the 29 makes it > susceptible. > > > > I had ?gel coat cracks? at the front and back of the stub keel > > > > I ended up grinding out the front and back end of my keel, which was done in > stages. The front was re-laminated out from the inner pan. We did this after > year 1. The aft end was also ground from inside and outside. There was some > very shabby repair work back there. While we were at it the entire keel box > and grid were reinforced. We did this last fall. The front and back of my > keel are now Pearson Triton thickness and I have a bone dry bilge. We learned > more about the laminate about the stub keel/keel box of the 29 than I ever > wanted to know. > > > > I have seen two other 29?s with clearance around the ? keel bolt that you > describe. Mine had the clearance, but I attributed that to the fact the > original repair done in the yard in NH was not well executed. > > > > The advice from others on the site is sound. You would be best doing a short > haul and inspecting from the outside. The damage could propagate, in best > case adding to the cost of a future repair and potentially, putting you in a > situation that could worsen quickly at a time not of your choosing. > > > > Unfortunately I didn?t take pictures, but you can call me to discuss the > configuration of the stub keel and bolts as the painful memories are forever > seared into my mind. > > > > My cell is 516-669-2385 > > > > Sorry to hear about your experience. The upside is that with modern materials > ( epoxy and biaxial cloths), it can be made better than new. No indictment of > the fine work done at the C&C factories intended. > > > > Kirk Sneddon > > C&C 29 Mk II ? Flying Cloud > > > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson > Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:09 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts > > > > I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago. > > Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts > / mast step. > > The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is > currently under re-construction and dredging. > > Three weeks ago, I hit a ?pile of mud / sand? that they had left in the > middle of the channel at 5.5 knots. > > The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe > and it threw the entire crew off our feet. > > Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ? hour) around all the keel > bolts. > > There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural ?egg crate? > inside the hull. > > Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at > the rear edge of the keel > > Was very surprised to see a ? inch bolt in a 1? hole with no filler or > sealant between the sides of the hole and the bolt. > > You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt > without felling any sealant at all. > > This seems very strange....I would expect some kind of sealant to be present > around the bolt? > > Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap > around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall? > > If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time. > > > > > > Best regards, > > Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA > > C&C 29-2 Flying Colours > > Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club > > Pickering, ON > > (416) 919-2297 > > <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com> bobhick...@rogers.com > > > > ~~~~ __/) ~~~~ > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130624/1a46eb83/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 09:20:23 -0230 > From: Damien Morrissey <morrissey.dam...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List Steering Quadrant > Message-ID: > <CAJXH1um0AXfcVx3UCEZTwzdx05ApSAS3-eBP3M3DQ=vr-59...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > The problem is definitely the Quadrant. It has snapped into 2 pieces from > the shaft across to the curved grooved part that holds the steering cable, > the bolts are NOT missing. > > I can not find any name or product numbers in the pieces to aid in ordering > the proper part from Edson or others. My camera crapped out yesterday so > I will try again to get some pics. It is cast aluminum or white metal of > some sort. > > It is generally a pie shaped part with a hole for the rudder post at one > end. This end is in 2 pieces to clamp around that rudder post.There are 4 > bolts to hold this together. It is about 6 1/2 inches across here with 2 > eye bolts to attach the steering cable ends. The piece is about 10 inches > from the rudder post end to the centre of the curved groove end. The > curved end has 2 grooves for the steering cable and is about 12 1/2 inches > across. It is about 1 1/2 thick. > > As a picture is worth a thousand words, I will cut the description here and > post a pic as soon as I can. Until then, if anyone can help, that would > be great. If it isn't an Edson part - who else could be the manufacturer ? > > > Damien > "Melissa Anne" > Viking 33 - C&C Design > Bay of Islands Yacht Club > Corner Brook, NL > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130625/4fa81d1f/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 09:03:15 -0300 > From: dwight veinot <dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Steering Quadrant > Message-ID: <B98772473576478B8CA2995A91FCC527@your4dacd0ea75> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Damien > > > > Sounds like what is on my 1974 35 MKII.I am pretty sure that mine is Edson > > > > Dwight Veinot > > C&C 35 MKII, Alianna > > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > > > > _____ > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Damien > Morrissey > Sent: June 25, 2013 8:50 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List Steering Quadrant > > > > The problem is definitely the Quadrant. It has snapped into 2 pieces from > the shaft across to the curved grooved part that holds the steering cable, > the bolts are NOT missing. > > > > I can not find any name or product numbers in the pieces to aid in ordering > the proper part from Edson or others. My camera crapped out yesterday so I > will try again to get some pics. It is cast aluminum or white metal of > some sort. > > > > It is generally a pie shaped part with a hole for the rudder post at one > end. This end is in 2 pieces to clamp around that rudder post.There are 4 > bolts to hold this together. It is about 6 1/2 inches across here with 2 > eye bolts to attach the steering cable ends. The piece is about 10 inches > from the rudder post end to the centre of the curved groove end. The > curved end has 2 grooves for the steering cable and is about 12 1/2 inches > across. It is about 1 1/2 thick. > > > > As a picture is worth a thousand words, I will cut the description here and > post a pic as soon as I can. Until then, if anyone can help, that would be > great. If it isn't an Edson part - who else could be the manufacturer ? > > > > > > Damien > > "Melissa Anne" > Viking 33 - C&C Design > > Bay of Islands Yacht Club > > Corner Brook, NL > > _____ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3199/5939 - Release Date: 06/25/13 > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130625/610cb527/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 08:11:06 -0400 (EDT) > From: "Richard N. Bush" <bushma...@aol.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Steering Quadrant > Message-ID: <8d03fb4341f757f-d9c-25...@webmail-m279.sysops.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > Given the vintage, it is likely a Cinkel product, not Edson; > > > Richard > 1987 33-II; Ohio River, mile 584 > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor > Louisville, Kentucky 40202 > 502-584-7255 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Damien Morrissey <morrissey.dam...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Tue, Jun 25, 2013 7:50 am > Subject: Stus-List Steering Quadrant > > > The problem is definitely the Quadrant. It has snapped into 2 pieces from > the shaft across to the curved grooved part that holds the steering cable, > the bolts are NOT missing. > > > I can not find any name or product numbers in the pieces to aid in ordering > the proper part from Edson or others. My camera crapped out yesterday so I > will try again to get some pics. It is cast aluminum or white metal of some > sort. > > > It is generally a pie shaped part with a hole for the rudder post at one end. > This end is in 2 pieces to clamp around that rudder post.There are 4 bolts > to hold this together. It is about 6 1/2 inches across here with 2 eye > bolts to attach the steering cable ends. The piece is about 10 inches from > the rudder post end to the centre of the curved groove end. The curved end > has 2 grooves for the steering cable and is about 12 1/2 inches across. It > is about 1 1/2 thick. > > > As a picture is worth a thousand words, I will cut the description here and > post a pic as soon as I can. Until then, if anyone can help, that would be > great. If it isn't an Edson part - who else could be the manufacturer ? > > > > > Damien > "Melissa Anne" > Viking 33 - C&C Design > Bay of Islands Yacht Club > > Corner Brook, NL > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130625/97288d06/attachment.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > CnC-List mailing list > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ------------------------------ > > End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 89, Issue 59 > **************************************** _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
