Re. the tape. I would be concerned that the gap between the window pane and
the glass-fiber frame is not of consistent depth. The adhesive will built up
where it needs to and fill the voids. Tape would not do that.

 

Jonathan

Indigo 35-III

Southport CT

 

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

 

All,

 

            Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape
to fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?

 

            I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do
the job very well.
(http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/Al
l-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-S
ided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952
<http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/Al
l-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-S
ided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952&rt=s&x=0&y=0> &rt=s&x=0&y=0) 

 

            I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 

 

          Yeah yeah, I know. Another C&C Windows topic. Sue me. 

          

          

          All the best,

 

          Edd

 

 

          Edd M. Schillay

          Starship Enterprise

          C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

          City Island, NY 

          Starship <http://ncc1701a.blogspot.com/>  Enterprise's Captain's
Log Website

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Mar 5, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Brent Driedger <bren...@highspeedcrow.ca> wrote:





Although I didn't do it I'm still curious to see if someone would be willing
to use 3M double sided tape. The expensive stuff with the red backing. The
same stuff that airplane manufacturers are sticking fuselage parts together
with. I was going to give it a go but I broke the old window while removing
it. At 500 bucks I wasn't willing to waste a new window on an experiment. 
I went plexus and had very good results- the second time around. The key is
the shims to prevent you from squeezing out all the goodness. 

I wish Practical sailor would clear this up once and for all!

Cheers
Brent Driedger
C&C 27-v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-03-05, at 8:16 AM, "Kim Brown" <kimcbr...@comcast.net> wrote:




All, 
I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from past
discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously priced
primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need good
enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
soon. 

Kim Brown
Trust Me!!! 35-3 




_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Reply via email to