?      clipped to webbing or rope loops through the anodized toerails to avoid 
scratches <

Great idea.  It is a little late for the existing coating as the prior 43 years 
of racing and cruising have done the damage.  If I am able to recoat the 
toerail I will use it.  I can visualize webbing high tech line loops at 
strategic spots.  Before the paint I can smooth the underside of the holes to 
prevent chafe.

For a reason I have not yet determined the forward 10', port side has 
significantly more (deeper) corrosion than the rest of the toerail.  I will 
need to dig/clean deep and prime with some of that green metal primer prior to 
painting.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle
________________________________
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

On the Swans that I deliver, blocks, etc are clipped to webbing or rope loops 
through the anodized toerails to avoid scratches. I plan to do the same thing 
on the C&C.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 1:14 PM, Martin DeYoung 
<mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com<mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>> wrote:
Calypso's holey rail (toe rail) has faded/corroded to the point that light 
surface treatments will not bring back the luster. (20+ of the 43 years have 
been in salt water.)  It is beyond the scope of our "in the water" repairs to 
remove the toe rails and have them re-anodized.

I read somewhere that BBQ paint held up well. I am a little concerned that 
epoxy and urethane based paints will be too brittle. I use the holey rail often 
for snatch blocks, staysail tacks, parked halyards, and fender / mooring lines 
so I want a coating that will not chip from contact.

Anyone have recent experience with painting, especially with the current 
offerings from the high tech coating companies?

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle
________________________________
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Steve Thomas
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 4:20 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement

Since the original anodised finish consists of dye (and pigment?) adhering to 
oxide formed on the surface of the aluminum, a permanent black magic marker 
might help to restore some of the colour. The only tricky thing might be if you 
were to follow this with a wax product that uses alcohol as a solvent, since 
that is the solvent used in the permanent magic markers. Some wax products use 
petroleum distillates which will not dissolve alcohol soluble dyes, and 
therefore would not affect a magic marker touch up. It would be easy enough to 
try anyway.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>]On 
Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 8:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improvement
No idea if you can wax over Penetrol.

Sounds like time for a test.

I just went out to the storage and found some Mother's Back to Black auto trim 
polish.  I put that and some Meguiar's Premium Marine Wax in my truck.  Maybe 
I'll give them a shot next week.  Since I painted the boat, I don't need the 
wax anymore.  Might as well try it on the toerail.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1


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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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