Dennis, Testing a pump against its rated capacity is pretty much a losing game because the ratings assume virtually no rise above the pump and they also assume full voltage at the pump.
In most configurations, you'll have a long-ish hose run to get the water overboard (longer than they used in the rating process) and you may also have voltage drop between the battery and the pump. Also, when we add things like non-return valves, those also limit pump output. Nigel Calder does an empirical test of bilge pump capacities in his E&M book and the results are really eye-opening. (In sum, no bilge pump - in a realistic installation - delivers its rated capacity) Basically, if you want to maximize your pump output, you need to minimize the volume and height of water downstream of the pump. Problem is, most of us have already done that. Next step is to get rid of non-return valves and other things that restrict flow. Then voltage. After that, the pump is pretty much what it is. It'd be easier just to put a flow restrictor on the shower head... Cheers Colin On 2/24/13, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote: > First, I would check the output of the shower sump pump vs its stated > capacity. Most shower sump systems pump 500 or 750 gph. Just get a 2 > gallon bucket and time how long it takes to pump out 2 gallons. > > If it's a 500 gph pump and it only pumps 200 gph, then troubleshoot it. I > doubt the original build had a shower sump that had less capacity than the > freshwater system. Most freshwater systems pump a maximum of 3 to 3.5 gpm. > That's only 180-210 gph. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > -- Sent from my mobile device _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
