Dennis is probably right, if you want to stick with rod rigging, just go straight to reheading and buy extra long toggles to make up the lost length. Completely new rod will be a lot more expensive than new wire, probably twice the cost.
The Dyform wire I used was more than standard wire, but approximately the same diameter as my old rod and actually stronger, and less expensive than testing an reheading the old rod. I think it was the right choice for me since I plan to go offshore from time to time in my good old boat, but not necessarily for everyone. And BTW, leather spreader boots are probably about the same cost as the Dacron pads sold by Taylor Made that I had used previously. Just don’t buy the high priced Edson kits. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2013 10:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Spreaders and Standing Rigging Remove the rods, coil them to no LESS than 200 times rod diameter, cable tie them to an "X" made from 2 x 4's and UPS them (insured) to Florida Rigging and Hydraulic to be reheaded. (http://www.rigginghydraulics.com/ )Make sure you have a plan for making up the lost length. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA _____ From: David Folsom <dfolsom...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2013 8:01 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Spreaders and Standing Rigging Rick and Lee, thanks for the info. I replaced my forestay about 3 years ago when I installed a roller furler. I am waiting on prices for replacing the shrouds- and based on price will pick between rod and wire. the rigger recomended going with wire for the backstay as a simple way to save some money. Does anyone have experience with getting the ends of their spreaders redone- mine are very corroded- especially the upper spreaders. I like the idea of leather spreader boots, I think I will do that next time. Dave On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 10:05 AM, Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> wrote: In the summer of 2010, we fell off a 4 ft wave while close reaching in 16 knots true, and something went POP. Sounded like a .22 going off; and I said “F***! Something broke!” One of the jump stays between the first and second spreaders, which I later learned is officially called the D2 shroud, was waving around in the breeze. I’d already given thought to inspecting the 34 year old rod rigging. Now that something had broken I obviously had to make it a priority. Turns out that the threaded toggle in the turnbuckle used to tension the shroud had broken. I learned that the recommendation is to replace all the threaded toggles used in rod rigging every 10 years because of the possibility of crevice corrosion where the threaded rods are swaged into the hex in the middle. My rigger also said that dye checking the rod heads would only identify cracks, but would not identify all causes of failure. Cost of the dye check would be a bit over $2k with yard fees for unstopping the mast. For a full inspection of the old rod, it would need to be removed, packed, and shipped to Navtec for testing. Cost would be about $3500, plus any reheading or replacement based on the outcome of the testing. For about the same cost as the inspection of the rod, I replaced the whole standing rigging with Dyform wire. The wire is a scoosh larger in diameter (about 1/16th) than the #10 rod being replaced, but the break strength of the wire is actually higher than the strength of the rod being replaced. The upper end of the wire uses swaged fittings that fit the ball sockets of the rod rigging (so no mast tang changes), and the lower fittings are Stalocks. I changed the deck level turnbuckles to open style to make adjustment easier. On the diagonals, I retained the internal style turnbuckles and replaced all the toggles so I would not need to change any of the joint fittings on the end of the spreaders. Another advantage of the change to a wire headstay was that it allowed me to install the Bamar roller furler ; Bamar does not recommend having a roller on rod rigging because dirt in the bearings can scratch the rod and create a stress riser that weakens the rod. BTW, the ends of my spreaders were also corroded, but not so much they could not be cleaned up and reused. I changed over to leather spreader boots that are sewn on, instead of the nylon pads that were put on in 2003. My rigger thought the leather boots will allow better flushing by rain water and better airflow to prevent corrosion of the aluminum ends of the spreaders. Rick Brass Washington, NC -----Original Message----- From: David Folsom < <mailto:dfolsom...@gmail.com> dfolsom...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Mon, Jan 21, 2013 2:41 pm Subject: Stus-List Replacing Spreaders and Standing Rigging Hi fellow C&C owners. Can anyone tell me about their experience with replacing their standing rigging? thanks Dave Folsom 1981 C&C 36 Rebel Maid San Diego _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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