Rick and Lee, thanks for the info. I replaced my forestay about 3 years ago when I installed a roller furler.
I am waiting on prices for replacing the shrouds- and based on price will pick between rod and wire. the rigger recomended going with wire for the backstay as a simple way to save some money. Does anyone have experience with getting the ends of their spreaders redone- mine are very corroded- especially the upper spreaders. I like the idea of leather spreader boots, I think I will do that next time. Dave On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 10:05 AM, Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>wrote: > In the summer of 2010, we fell off a 4 ft wave while close reaching in 16 > knots true, and something went POP. Sounded like a .22 going off; and I > said “F***! Something broke!”**** > > ** ** > > One of the jump stays between the first and second spreaders, which I > later learned is officially called the D2 shroud, was waving around in the > breeze.**** > > ** ** > > I’d already given thought to inspecting the 34 year old rod rigging. Now > that something had broken I obviously had to make it a priority.**** > > ** ** > > Turns out that the threaded toggle in the turnbuckle used to tension the > shroud had broken. I learned that the recommendation is to replace all the > threaded toggles used in rod rigging every 10 years because of the > possibility of crevice corrosion where the threaded rods are swaged into > the hex in the middle. My rigger also said that dye checking the rod heads > would only identify cracks, but would not identify all causes of failure. > Cost of the dye check would be a bit over $2k with yard fees for unstopping > the mast.**** > > ** ** > > For a full inspection of the old rod, it would need to be removed, packed, > and shipped to Navtec for testing. Cost would be about $3500, plus any > reheading or replacement based on the outcome of the testing.**** > > ** ** > > For about the same cost as the inspection of the rod, I replaced the whole > standing rigging with Dyform wire. The wire is a scoosh larger in diameter > (about 1/16th) than the #10 rod being replaced, but the break strength of > the wire is actually higher than the strength of the rod being replaced. > The upper end of the wire uses swaged fittings that fit the ball sockets of > the rod rigging (so no mast tang changes), and the lower fittings are > Stalocks. I changed the deck level turnbuckles to open style to make > adjustment easier. On the diagonals, I retained the internal style > turnbuckles and replaced all the toggles so I would not need to change any > of the joint fittings on the end of the spreaders. Another advantage of > the change to a wire headstay was that it allowed me to install the Bamar > roller furler ; Bamar does not recommend having a roller on rod rigging > because dirt in the bearings can scratch the rod and create a stress riser > that weakens the rod.**** > > ** ** > > BTW, the ends of my spreaders were also corroded, but not so much they > could not be cleaned up and reused. I changed over to leather spreader > boots that are sewn on, instead of the nylon pads that were put on in 2003. > My rigger thought the leather boots will allow better flushing by rain > water and better airflow to prevent corrosion of the aluminum ends of the > spreaders.**** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > Rick Brass**** > > Washington, NC**** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Folsom <dfolsom...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Mon, Jan 21, 2013 2:41 pm > Subject: Stus-List Replacing Spreaders and Standing Rigging**** > > Hi fellow C&C owners. **** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > Can anyone tell me about their experience with replacing their standing > rigging?**** > > ** ** > > thanks**** > > ** ** > > Dave Folsom**** > > 1981 C&C 36 Rebel Maid**** > > San Diego**** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >
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