The cause of the cracks was wet core just outboard / above the solid glass
at the turn of the bilge (right by the mast step).  There was a void
between the mast step assembly (glass) and the hull proper that allowed
water to sit for a while (29 years?) against the inner laminate...  I now
have full confidence in the hull integrity (having replaced most of it over
the last two years), but am many dollars lighter.  The temptation of a new
boat is growing.

Tim
Mojito
1984 C&C 35-3
Branford, CT


On Sun, Dec 16, 2012 at 8:50 PM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Tim,
>
> My boat is a lot older than yours but if it's any indication, their layup
> schedules weren't very good.  I've re-tabbed most of the bulkhead/hull
> joints in Touche's forward section.  A few were detached or broken but most
> were just bad practice.
>
> When I had the boat hauled about 5 years ago for a barrier coat, I could
> see cosmetic cracks in the matte once the gelcoat was removed from the
> underbody.  These cracks aligned with the bulkheads.  The bulkhead tabs had
> no fillets.  They were all 90 degree joints.  This created stress points at
> the joints which manifested themselves as the cosmetic cracks on the
> outside of the hull.
>
> I have been re-tabbing all the bulkheads with filleted joints.  I ground
> out the old tabbing, created fillets and re-tabbed with 4 inch biaxial
> tape.  To create the fillets, I put thickened epoxy in the joint and
> smoothed it with the back of a plastic spoon.  This creates a nice radius
> for the fillet.  The filleted joints spread the load.  This is particularly
> important in the forward section of the boat as that's where the boat
> pounds into waves.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>   ------------------------------
> *From:* Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com>
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 16, 2012 4:29 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks
>
> There is some tabbing in the bilge sump between floors and hull that has
> become detached.  I'll have that ground off and reattached and will add
> glass on the outside and fair.  Does anyone have access to any of the
> original layup schedules in that area?  I have copies of all the drawings
> that were available, but none were that specific on construction methods.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3 1984
> Branford, CT
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 7:34 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com
> > wrote:
>
> Hi Tim
> I'd pull the cabin sole and see if the floor grid is still well attached
> to the hull at the turn of the bilge, I'm guessing on the port side it is
> not.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>
> Tim Goodyear wrote:
>
> Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from those
> who have re-habbed their keels on this model...
> I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture in
> two areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 8" hairline
> crack on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly where the mast
> step is internally).  Would this have been enough for you to go ahead with
> major keel surgery?
> Rear of keel
> I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards have
> had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but still a
> tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge just aft of the
> rear keel bolt (I removed the floorboards and sponged the area dry).  Water
> would not normally stay in that area, but the boat is tilted back a little
> on the stands.  I have not had the keel bolts torqued in 7 years (since I
> bought Mojito).
> Mast Step area
> This is the first year I've noticed moisture in that area; there have been
> hairline cracks in the antifouling before.  The mast is stepped and I can't
> access that area through the mast step, which appears sound.
> Thanks,
> Tim
> Mojito
> 1984 C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
>
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