Tim,
My boat is a lot older than yours but if it's any indication, their layup
schedules weren't very good. I've re-tabbed most of the bulkhead/hull joints
in Touche's forward section. A few were detached or broken but most were just
bad practice.
When I had the boat hauled about 5 years ago for a barrier coat, I could see
cosmetic cracks in the matte once the gelcoat was removed from the underbody.
These cracks aligned with the bulkheads. The bulkhead tabs had no fillets.
They were all 90 degree joints. This created stress points at the joints which
manifested themselves as the cosmetic cracks on the outside of the hull.
I have been re-tabbing all the bulkheads with filleted joints. I ground out
the old tabbing, created fillets and re-tabbed with 4 inch biaxial tape. To
create the fillets, I put thickened epoxy in the joint and smoothed it with the
back of a plastic spoon. This creates a nice radius for the fillet. The
filleted joints spread the load. This is particularly important in the forward
section of the boat as that's where the boat pounds into waves.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: Tim Goodyear <[email protected]>
>To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
>Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2012 4:29 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks
>
>
>There is some tabbing in the bilge sump between floors and hull that has
>become detached. I'll have that ground off and reattached and will add glass
>on the outside and fair. Does anyone have access to any of the original layup
>schedules in that area? I have copies of all the drawings that were
>available, but none were that specific on construction methods.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Tim
>Mojito
>C&C 35-3 1984
>Branford, CT
>
>
>
>On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 7:34 PM, Graham Collins <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>Hi Tim
>>I'd pull the cabin sole and see if the floor grid is still well attached to
>>the hull at the turn of the bilge, I'm guessing on the port side it is not.
>>
>>Graham Collins
>>Secret Plans
>>C&C 35-III #11
>>
>>
>>Tim Goodyear wrote:
>>
>>Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from those
>>who have re-habbed their keels on this model...
>>>I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture in two
>>>areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 8" hairline crack
>>>on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly where the mast step is
>>>internally). Would this have been enough for you to go ahead with major
>>>keel surgery?
>>>Rear of keel
>>>I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards have
>>>had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but still a
>>>tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge just aft of the
>>>rear keel bolt (I removed the floorboards and sponged the area dry). Water
>>>would not normally stay in that area, but the boat is tilted back a little
>>>on the stands. I have not had the keel bolts torqued in 7 years (since I
>>>bought Mojito).
>>>Mast Step area
>>>This is the first year I've noticed moisture in that area; there have been
>>>hairline cracks in the antifouling before. The mast is stepped and I can't
>>>access that area through the mast step, which appears sound.
>>>Thanks,
>>>Tim
>>>Mojito
>>>1984 C&C 35-3
>>>Branford, CT
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
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>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>[email protected]
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>
>
_______________________________________________
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