Hello Joel, I striped and revarnished my sole 3 years ago. After using a chemical stripper, I was not satisfied with the lack of contrast between teak and holly and I tried to further clean the wood using oxalic acid. It helped with a few very dark marks where water got into the wood but didn't really enhanced the contrast.
Based on the assumption that the sole would not be seriously exposed to UV, I went with an interior polyurethane (I believe it was a minwax product). I applied 3 coats (thinned 50%) as a sealer and then built up with 100% polyurethane (3-4 coats maybe). I didn't bother with teak-specific product as the so-thin layer of old-teak veneer was anything but oily at that point! Although I swear by Epiphane for exterior work, I find that it is a bit more tricky to handle and is significantly more expensive than home depot interior polyurethane. The surface is indeed slippery but as mentioned by Andrew a mat solves that issue. If it is particularly wet and bouncy, I keep my deck shoes anyway! 3 years after, the finish has held perfectly. I'm still ambivalent on whether I should have simply replaced the sole. I would have saved the stripping/sanding job (nasty and boring) and would have a better looking result. On the other hand the cost would be much higher (~300$ per panel) and the job not significantly less (but much more exciting!). Let me know off list if you are interested in photos of before / after, I think I have some around. cheers, Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987 Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain On Dec 18, 2012, at 9:02, Andrew Burton wrote: > Joel, if you strip teak and holly sole, you will get darker teak and lighter > holly. I'm doing the same project this spring (have I mentioned my new > boat?!), and that's the result I'm looking for. I think the contrast between > the two woods is what makes a teak and holly sole so attractive. After I get > to bare wood, I'll build up coats to fill the grain with Petitt clear sealer, > then lay on several coats of Epiphanes gloss varnish. I'm of two minds about > topping them with a coat of clear Awl Grip. It's a hard durable finish, but > once it goes, it's a pain to remove. > For a lighter look, you may be better off going with a different wood. Ash > would be nice if you can get it in plywood veneer. Avoid birch, it seems to > have a bit of a grayish tinge when you varnish it up nicely. > > Andrew Burton > C&C 40 > Peregrine > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > phone +401 965 5260 > > > On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 8:41 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote: > Last Saturday I took off the sails and dropped off the main for cleaning. > > Now I'm on to mundane tasks like sewing new velcro onto the spinnaker bag > straps and finishing the headliner access panels (3 of 4 are done). > > I'm considering stripping and refinishing the cabin sole. I'd like to end up > with a lighter color wood. Which varnishes/coatings are best for a cabin > sole? I'm concerned about grip and durability. Would you use something like > Minwax floor varnish on your boat? > > Thanks, and Happy Holidays! > > Joel > 35/3 > The Office > Annapolis > 301 541 8551 > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > > > -- > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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