Carefully explore the engine compartment bulkheads for the ends of screws
sticking out. "Fix" any you find.
Pet peeve of mine. I hate reaching into a tight space and scraping myself on a
sharp object.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca>
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 5:44 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Saga - Continued - may be boring....
>
>Good thinking As it turns out, I've got most of the bilge cleaned up and,
>with the exception of the area yet to be done, it's gloss white and like new.
>
>Rich Knowles
>Mistyped by thumb.
>
>
>On 2012-08-31, at 13:40, "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR"
><keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:
>
>> You might want to paint the bilge areas under the engine now that you
>> have access to it.
>>
>> Finding drips/leaks in the future will be easier if the bilge isn't
>> already stained with the prior drips/leaks.
>>
>> Food for thought.
>>
>> -Keith
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rich Knowles [mailto:r...@sailpower.ca]
>> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 9:23
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Engine Saga - Continued - may be boring....
>>
>> You may recall my engine decided to revolt a couple months back when it
>> blew all its oil into the bilge and almost seized up. After a bit of
>> thought and asking a few questions, I bought a low-hour used Yanmar
>> 3GM30 thinking it would be an easy install. Turned out to be very
>> difficult to locate parts to mate it to my Hurth V-drive transmission
>> and I eventually gave that idea up and put the engine in my storage
>> space.
>>
>>
>>
>> After a couple of days of work, I dissembled all the surrounding
>> woodwork and weaseled the engine out from under the cockpit sole into
>> the aft cabin, an interesting exercise to say the least. I think they
>> suspended the engine in mid-air and built the boat around it. I removed
>> the carcass with the club jib crane and lugged it off to the local
>> engine rebuilding experts. They tore it down to see what caused the
>> blow-by which had caused the problem. There was nothing obvious at all
>> to be seen other than one of the pistons looked as though some water may
>> have got in and possibly seized a ring. They magnafluxed the head and
>> all is good. Also, surprisingly, the interior of the block is a clean as
>> a whistle with no corrosion or deposits of note. Pretty good for a
>> raw-water cooled engine.
>>
>>
>>
>> We decided to replace the cylinder liners, pistons and rings, crank
>> bearings, exhaust valves, thermostats and motor mounts. Everything is
>> available in NA except the head and pan gaskets which are on the way
>> from Japan. Total rebuild cost will be around $3,500. Maybe....
>>
>>
>>
>> While I'm awaiting the parts, I've been cleaning the bilge and swamping
>> out the engine room. I've stripped out a bunch of previously
>> inaccessible old wiring and plumbing too and am replacing anything that
>> looks suspicious. Lots of dirty fun.
>>
>>
>>
>> If anyone needs it, I have a perfectly good low-hour Yanmar 3GM30 for
>> sale. I have $4,800 in it and that's what I'm asking.
>>
>>
>>
>> More to come as the best summer in years slowly disappears...
>>
>>
>>
>> Rich Knowles
>>
>> INDIGO - LF38
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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