Good thinking As it turns out, I've got most of the bilge cleaned up and, with the exception of the area yet to be done, it's gloss white and like new.
Rich Knowles Mistyped by thumb. On 2012-08-31, at 13:40, "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR" <keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote: > You might want to paint the bilge areas under the engine now that you > have access to it. > > Finding drips/leaks in the future will be easier if the bilge isn't > already stained with the prior drips/leaks. > > Food for thought. > > -Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rich Knowles [mailto:r...@sailpower.ca] > Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 9:23 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List Engine Saga - Continued - may be boring.... > > You may recall my engine decided to revolt a couple months back when it > blew all its oil into the bilge and almost seized up. After a bit of > thought and asking a few questions, I bought a low-hour used Yanmar > 3GM30 thinking it would be an easy install. Turned out to be very > difficult to locate parts to mate it to my Hurth V-drive transmission > and I eventually gave that idea up and put the engine in my storage > space. > > > > After a couple of days of work, I dissembled all the surrounding > woodwork and weaseled the engine out from under the cockpit sole into > the aft cabin, an interesting exercise to say the least. I think they > suspended the engine in mid-air and built the boat around it. I removed > the carcass with the club jib crane and lugged it off to the local > engine rebuilding experts. They tore it down to see what caused the > blow-by which had caused the problem. There was nothing obvious at all > to be seen other than one of the pistons looked as though some water may > have got in and possibly seized a ring. They magnafluxed the head and > all is good. Also, surprisingly, the interior of the block is a clean as > a whistle with no corrosion or deposits of note. Pretty good for a > raw-water cooled engine. > > > > We decided to replace the cylinder liners, pistons and rings, crank > bearings, exhaust valves, thermostats and motor mounts. Everything is > available in NA except the head and pan gaskets which are on the way > from Japan. Total rebuild cost will be around $3,500. Maybe.... > > > > While I'm awaiting the parts, I've been cleaning the bilge and swamping > out the engine room. I've stripped out a bunch of previously > inaccessible old wiring and plumbing too and am replacing anything that > looks suspicious. Lots of dirty fun. > > > > If anyone needs it, I have a perfectly good low-hour Yanmar 3GM30 for > sale. I have $4,800 in it and that's what I'm asking. > > > > More to come as the best summer in years slowly disappears... > > > > Rich Knowles > > INDIGO - LF38 > > Halifax, NS > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
