I'd not though about the 120 hz flashes. A full wave bridge might be better. Also, a diode, backwards across the LED would be a good idea. Stray capacitance could put a higher voltage on the LED backword that it might not like. A capacitive dropper could be used. There might be an issue with the sharpness ofthe turn on of the LED. This could be trimmed with a zener in series and a resistor in parallel with the entire assembly. It is hard to desribe in text. The idea would be that the resistor would shunt some of the current until the voltage was high enough to turn on zener. The current would then pass through LED and the shunt resistor. The main voltage drop could be a capacitor or a resistor as a maximum of 10 milliamps is mostly all that is needed. Other more clever ideas could be used to make it pulse on for the peaks only, using a diac or such or a pair of transistors.
________________________________ From: Chuck Guzis via cctalk <cctalk@classiccmp.org> Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2024 10:22 AM To: dwight via cctalk <cctalk@classiccmp.org> Cc: Chuck Guzis <ccl...@sydex.com> Subject: [cctalk] Re: Running DOS executables on other versions of DOSRe: Looking for Sharp PC-5000 disk drive (CE-510F or possibly MZ-80B) On 11/6/24 09:21, dwight via cctalk wrote: > I'd think a diode, white LED and a resistor would make a good enough strobe. > Maybe 2 resistors to isolate the AC lines enough a little better. A lot of the Chinese nightlights use capacitor droppers. I'd opt for a green, blue or red LED rather than a white one. No phosphor after-glow. As a matter of fact, I've got a couple of the blue nightlights and I can see the flicker...
