On 2023-02-14 11:02, Chris Zach via cctalk wrote:
I'm finding 5.5 to 6 turns is a pretty solid constant. Try going down
that much on each one, then going 1/2 turn in, 1/2 out, and down in
1/2 increments.
C
On 2/14/2023 10:35 AM, Nigel Johnson Ham via cctalk wrote:
Unfortunately, I had already removed the nut before you warned me
about that in a previous email. However I did try various adjustments
of that nut with disappointing results. Maybe I will try doing it
many different settings! I did compare it to the position of the hut
in a TK50 and it was about the same.
I can feel a definite rubbing in the idler, but I will keep trying. I
can visualise that the sensor slots must be the correct height to
give a good since wave.
thanks
Nigel
On 2023-02-14 09:58, Chris Zach via cctalk wrote:
Looking at my notes I found a similar situation: Tape would not load
properly. Turned the rear nut 1/2 turn in, and it loaded. Then it
would not read, turning the front nut down 1/2 turn allowed it to do
proper reads and restores from an already-written tape.
I think there is an oscilliscope method of setting the capstain
height out there somewhere, but this "barn door" method works for me
as well.
C
On 2/13/2023 9:31 PM, Chris Zach via cctalk wrote:
No I don't. I just lubricate them. Odd though, did you turn the nut
down the same number of turns and is the capstain dragging on the
tape?
C
On 2/13/2023 8:05 PM, Nigel Johnson Ham via cctalk wrote:
Chris, I don't suppose you have the part number for suitable
replacement bearings, do you? I have cleaned out the sensor wheel
but still the same problem - but when i give the idler wheel a
little push it at least goes to ready.
cheers,
Nigel
On 2023-02-08 10:49, Chris Zach via cctalk wrote:
I think it's metal, but using a bit of good old soapy water and a
rinse/dry should be fine. Remember that there is a little window
screen part there to ensure the optical system only sees the slit
right under it, don't forget to install it as well.
Glad to hear there is progress. Let us know how it works out!
C
On 2/8/2023 10:06 AM, Nigel Johnson Ham via cctalk wrote:
Well, I found dust and what looks like oil on the optical wheel.
It looks like somebody may have tried to lube the bearings in
situ and used too much oil :-(
I'm amused to see that it uses the same moiré principle that was
used way back in the RK05!
Do you know if the pattern on the wheel is purely cut out, or is
there any photographic film involved? I think the only possible
solution would be to clean it with isopropyl, but useless to do
that if it is film.
Well after fiddling all day, I managed to get it to load and unload tape
five times, and that is a first! In the end, I ran the nut back and
forth and found two points beyond which it would lose tension, then set
it midway between those two points.
Just went to put it back in MicroVax2 and found I had pulled the power
connector right off the power supply, so will need to move some
furniture and pull out the system to fix that - tomorrow!
In the end I used one drop of Braun electric shaver lube, and found a
miraculous metal cleaner from Germany, called Winkel reinigungsspray!
I'll post when I have it running!
thanks for all your help, Without your advice I would not have been so
persistent in arriving at the end result!
Nigel
--
Nigel Johnson, MSc., MIEEE, MCSE VE3ID/G4AJQ/VA3MCU
Amateur Radio, the origin of the open-source concept!
Skype: TILBURY2591
