I found this problem with every single cheap DC-DC I have used if I buy too
close to the load I need. 5X or 10X then they are OK.
From: Adam Moffett
Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2020 1:18 PM
To: af@af.afmug.com
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] 24v to 48v upconverter pulses
This is all true, but how much inrush current can you have with one switch and
one PoE device?
On 9/3/2020 3:15 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
Yeah a fully charged 24 volt rechargeable battery in parallel with the load
would probably fix the problem. Get a couple small gel cells. But they will
have an inrush current too.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 3, 2020, at 1:11 PM, Ken Hohhof mailto:af...@kwisp.com wrote:
I guess I’d like to hear how many watts you need for stuff that can run on
48/56 volts, vs how many for stuff that must have 24V.
240 watts is a lot of 48V, I would seriously think about a 48V power supply
and battery string. Even if you put that along side your 24V setup. Batteries
are really good at handling inrush current.
From: AF mailto:af-boun...@af.afmug.com On Behalf Of Chuck McCown
Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2020 1:56 PM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group mailto:af@af.afmug.com
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] 24v to 48v upconverter pulses
Lots of equipment will have a high inrush current wham starting. I think
you don’t have enough capacity to get things started. Cheap DC-DC converters
don’t like high starting loads. A fix would be a series inductor with a
flywheel diode. I am on the road else I would help with some component
selection.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 3, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Sterling Jacobson <sterl...@avative.net>
wrote:
I bought a cheap 24v to 48v (5A max) upconvert from Amazon.
I have it wired to feed a MT CRS switch via DC and radio via POE on the
48v leg.
But when I plug everything in, the CRS doesn’t show any lights, and the
radio/POE just pulses green light it’s powering, then not powering in a cycle.
When I remove the radio POE, the CRS will start pulsing green light it’s
getting power for a split second, then not, then power, in a cycle just like
the radio POE.
After maybe 10-20 seconds the CRS finally gets full power and boots up
just fine.
After it begins to get full power I can plug in the POE to the radio and
it boots up just fine too.
I’ve tried different power supplies and different POE injectors and
different CRS switches and different 24v to 48v upconvert modules, always the
same.
So I’m thinking I need to do something inline with the 24v feed to maybe
delay or build up amperage first?
It really sounds like an odd electronics problem with this particular
upconverter that may be lacking a component necessary for my scenario.
What do you electronics people think?
From: AF <af-boun...@af.afmug.com> On Behalf Of Josh Baird
Sent: Wednesday, September 2, 2020 6:42 AM
To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <af@af.afmug.com>
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Mikrotik Vrrp
Yes - the VRRP should be a /32. Typical configuration looks like this:
Router1:
ether1: 192.168.1.2/24
vrrp.ether1: 192.168.1.1/32
Router2:
ether1: 192.168.1.3/24
vrrp.ether1: 192.168.1.1/32
Your VRRP interface (192.168.1.1/32) should be a /32, and it should be on
the same subnet as your "physical" interfaces.
On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 11:06 PM Rhys Cuff (Speedweb Internet) via AF
<af@af.afmug.com> wrote:
Hi Guys
Has anyone had much experience with using Vrrp on a Mikrotik?
It seemed pretty easy to setup but the manual said the floating IP must
be a /32 and to put an IP on the physical interface with a /24
This seemed wrong so I just put a /24 on the Vrrp interface and a
completely different subnet on the physical interface for the routers to
communicate.
Thinking I was clever all was well till about 1am two days after I did
this, then it completely failed, switching back and forth from master to
backup, basically having two masters on and off.
Is having a /32 on the vrrp really necessary, if so why?
Why would it have been all good for two days?
So my config that lasted two days
Vrrp 192.168.1.1/24 (floating IP I care about)
Physical 10.0.1.1/24 (to communicate with master/backup routers)
How the manual says to do it
Vrrp 192.168.1.1/32
Physical 192.168.1.2/24
Doing it the second way will mean a lot more IP’s/config as I want to
have around 20 floating IP’s
Thanks again for any help.
Rhys
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