I'm gonna concur with get a better converter.
On 9/3/2020 2:39 PM, Ken Hohhof wrote:
I guess it depends on what brand/model the cheap power supply from
Amazon is. I’m assuming it’s a DC-DC converter.
I’m building most sites as 48V now (actually more like 54V), usually
everything can run off that, but if we need a little 24V for
something, I’ll put in a little Traco converter.
At some older 24V sites where we are now needing 48V (like converting
from 450 to 450i APs), I’ve been using Mean Well DDR-120B-48. Haven’t
had any problems like you describe. That’s only a 2.5 amp output, but
there’s also a DDR-240 series. If I needed that much DC power, I
would probably convert to 48V. Most places I’m only using maybe 30
watts off that 120 watt supply.
I used to buy Mean Well RSD series and they are all still out there
running just fine, but they are kind of big and not DIN rail mount. I
think the DDR-120 is around $65. That’s just not enough money to
worry about something cheaper off Amazon unless you’re buying pallet
loads of them.
*From:* AF <af-boun...@af.afmug.com> *On Behalf Of *Sterling Jacobson
*Sent:* Thursday, September 3, 2020 12:33 PM
*To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <af@af.afmug.com>
*Subject:* [AFMUG] 24v to 48v upconverter pulses
I bought a cheap 24v to 48v (5A max) upconvert from Amazon.
I have it wired to feed a MT CRS switch via DC and radio via POE on
the 48v leg.
But when I plug everything in, the CRS doesn’t show any lights, and
the radio/POE just pulses green light it’s powering, then not powering
in a cycle.
When I remove the radio POE, the CRS will start pulsing green light
it’s getting power for a split second, then not, then power, in a
cycle just like the radio POE.
After maybe 10-20 seconds the CRS finally gets full power and boots up
just fine.
After it begins to get full power I can plug in the POE to the radio
and it boots up just fine too.
I’ve tried different power supplies and different POE injectors and
different CRS switches and different 24v to 48v upconvert modules,
always the same.
So I’m thinking I need to do something inline with the 24v feed to
maybe delay or build up amperage first?
It really sounds like an odd electronics problem with this particular
upconverter that may be lacking a component necessary for my scenario.
What do you electronics people think?
*From:* AF <af-boun...@af.afmug.com <mailto:af-boun...@af.afmug.com>>
*On Behalf Of *Josh Baird
*Sent:* Wednesday, September 2, 2020 6:42 AM
*To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <af@af.afmug.com
<mailto:af@af.afmug.com>>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Mikrotik Vrrp
Yes - the VRRP should be a /32. Typical configuration looks like this:
Router1:
ether1: 192.168.1.2/24 <http://192.168.1.2/24>
vrrp.ether1: 192.168.1.1/32 <http://192.168.1.1/32>
Router2:
ether1: 192.168.1.3/24 <http://192.168.1.3/24>
vrrp.ether1: 192.168.1.1/32 <http://192.168.1.1/32>
Your VRRP interface (192.168.1.1/32 <http://192.168.1.1/32>) should be
a /32, and it should be on the same subnet as your "physical" interfaces.
On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 11:06 PM Rhys Cuff (Speedweb Internet) via AF
<af@af.afmug.com <mailto:af@af.afmug.com>> wrote:
Hi Guys
Has anyone had much experience with using Vrrp on a Mikrotik?
It seemed pretty easy to setup but the manual said the floating IP
must be a /32 and to put an IP on the physical interface with a /24
This seemed wrong so I just put a /24 on the Vrrp interface and a
completely different subnet on the physical interface for the
routers to communicate.
Thinking I was clever all was well till about 1am two days after I
did this, then it completely failed, switching back and forth from
master to backup, basically having two masters on and off.
Is having a /32 on the vrrp really necessary, if so why?
Why would it have been all good for two days?
So my config that lasted two days
Vrrp 192.168.1.1/24 <http://192.168.1.1/24> (floating IP I care about)
Physical 10.0.1.1/24 <http://10.0.1.1/24> (to communicate with
master/backup routers)
How the manual says to do it
Vrrp 192.168.1.1/32 <http://192.168.1.1/32>
Physical 192.168.1.2/24 <http://192.168.1.2/24>
Doing it the second way will mean a lot more IP’s/config as I want
to have around 20 floating IP’s
Thanks again for any help.
Rhys
--
AF mailing list
AF@af.afmug.com <mailto:AF@af.afmug.com>
http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com
--
AF mailing list
AF@af.afmug.com
http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com
