On Sep 3, 2020, at 1:11 PM, Ken Hohhof <af...@kwisp.com> wrote:
I guess I’d like to hear how many watts you need for stuff that can
run on 48/56 volts, vs how many for stuff that must have 24V.
240 watts is a lot of 48V, I would seriously think about a 48V power
supply and battery string. Even if you put that along side your 24V
setup. Batteries are really good at handling inrush current.
*From:* AF <af-boun...@af.afmug.com> *On Behalf Of *Chuck McCown
*Sent:* Thursday, September 3, 2020 1:56 PM
*To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <af@af.afmug.com>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] 24v to 48v upconverter pulses
Lots of equipment will have a high inrush current wham starting. I
think you don’t have enough capacity to get things started. Cheap
DC-DC converters don’t like high starting loads. A fix would be a
series inductor with a flywheel diode. I am on the road else I would
help with some component selection.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 3, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Sterling Jacobson
<sterl...@avative.net <mailto:sterl...@avative.net>> wrote:
I bought a cheap 24v to 48v (5A max) upconvert from Amazon.
I have it wired to feed a MT CRS switch via DC and radio via POE
on the 48v leg.
But when I plug everything in, the CRS doesn’t show any lights,
and the radio/POE just pulses green light it’s powering, then not
powering in a cycle.
When I remove the radio POE, the CRS will start pulsing green
light it’s getting power for a split second, then not, then
power, in a cycle just like the radio POE.
After maybe 10-20 seconds the CRS finally gets full power and
boots up just fine.
After it begins to get full power I can plug in the POE to the
radio and it boots up just fine too.
I’ve tried different power supplies and different POE injectors
and different CRS switches and different 24v to 48v upconvert
modules, always the same.
So I’m thinking I need to do something inline with the 24v feed
to maybe delay or build up amperage first?
It really sounds like an odd electronics problem with this
particular upconverter that may be lacking a component necessary
for my scenario.
What do you electronics people think?
*From:* AF <af-boun...@af.afmug.com
<mailto:af-boun...@af.afmug.com>> *On Behalf Of *Josh Baird
*Sent:* Wednesday, September 2, 2020 6:42 AM
*To:* AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <af@af.afmug.com
<mailto:af@af.afmug.com>>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Mikrotik Vrrp
Yes - the VRRP should be a /32. Typical configuration looks like
this:
Router1:
ether1: 192.168.1.2/24 <http://192.168.1.2/24>
vrrp.ether1: 192.168.1.1/32 <http://192.168.1.1/32>
Router2:
ether1: 192.168.1.3/24 <http://192.168.1.3/24>
vrrp.ether1: 192.168.1.1/32 <http://192.168.1.1/32>
Your VRRP interface (192.168.1.1/32 <http://192.168.1.1/32>)
should be a /32, and it should be on the same subnet as your
"physical" interfaces.
On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 11:06 PM Rhys Cuff (Speedweb Internet) via
AF <af@af.afmug.com <mailto:af@af.afmug.com>> wrote:
Hi Guys
Has anyone had much experience with using Vrrp on a Mikrotik?
It seemed pretty easy to setup but the manual said the
floating IP must be a /32 and to put an IP on the physical
interface with a /24
This seemed wrong so I just put a /24 on the Vrrp interface
and a completely different subnet on the physical interface
for the routers to communicate.
Thinking I was clever all was well till about 1am two days
after I did this, then it completely failed, switching back
and forth from master to backup, basically having two masters
on and off.
Is having a /32 on the vrrp really necessary, if so why?
Why would it have been all good for two days?
So my config that lasted two days
Vrrp 192.168.1.1/24 <http://192.168.1.1/24> (floating IP I
care about)
Physical 10.0.1.1/24 <http://10.0.1.1/24> (to communicate
with master/backup routers)
How the manual says to do it
Vrrp 192.168.1.1/32 <http://192.168.1.1/32>
Physical 192.168.1.2/24 <http://192.168.1.2/24>
Doing it the second way will mean a lot more IP’s/config as I
want to have around 20 floating IP’s
Thanks again for any help.
Rhys
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