I can't speak to the big frame, but having a PBH that was right on the cusp
of the 45/52 sizes and having now owned both, I can say that if you prefer
upright, one-or-two hand position, casual riding you'll be happy with the
larger size. If you prefer a more energetic ride (which apparently I do
I've got a single Paul Touring in silver. It's pretty heavily used though,
and one of the post bushings is a bit rough. PM for details and pictures if
you like, if you think it'll work we can probably figure out a more than
fair price.
On Saturday, October 20, 2018 at 1:49:48 PM UTC-4, R. Alexi
Hey guys. I've been hoping this would sell locally, but all the local
interest keeps falling through so I'm accepting that I'll have to ship this
guy. I've got my old 52cm Clem L in forest green I'd like to get off to a
new home. Regular listers might know I switched to a 45cm L this fall after
Possible sale pending. Will update either way once it's decided.
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OK, this is still available.
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I don't really do any rides longer than 50 miles, so, I guess I don't know
if I'd love them on all day rides. But for what I do, Albastaches are my
favorite for 'high energy' riding. I built myself out of a bike for them a
couple year ago when I got the Clem and found I didn't actually like them
Sorry, in lieu of the recent conversation about the state of things, I'm
one of the guys that's been quiet. Back when I was posting more I was in
the middle of planning my wedding and I think the stress made me a bit
snippy when I didn't mean to be, so, I backed out for a while. Which turned
in
Eric, the catalog says it's a 1" rise/drop, so, I'll believe them on that.
Diego, laying my old Boscos as close to on top over the clamp as I can
manage, I'd say the Boscos come back about an inch more. Measuring, the
Billies are 8.5" straight before they bend as advertised. The Boscos are
clo
Eric, just make sure you've got enough room, the Clem's pretty long
(especially riding it at the smallest saddle height like I do) and with my
10cm stem the bars still almost feel too close. If your Fuji is anything
like my old one, you'll probably need quite the stem to counter for them.
Bill,
I just drilled out the holes on my Surly racks mounting hardware a little
bit and bought a couple M6 bolts to mount mine on that top boss.
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Tom, on neither the Bosco nor the Billie have I had problems with hitting
my knees in practice, even with the long bar end shifters. Both bars are
wide enough it's easy to keep my knees inside them during normal turning
range stuff. If I'm trying to do a standing 180 to reverse directions
becau
I actually do have one of those, haven't needed it since I switched to
using a front rack with a deeper tombstone on the Clem. Send me a private,
we'll get you sorted.
On Friday, February 21, 2020 at 2:23:08 PM UTC-5, Cody Bartz wrote:
>
> Hi folks!
>
> Anyone out there have a VO decaleur kit ar
Hello all! I could use a good crankset of the standard Riv varieties in a
170 crankarm, which seems to be OOS pretty much everywhere ATM. If anyone
has a spare laying around, I'd be interested in taking it off your hands.
Not super picky about configuration. Or, even just bare arms, I have some
Not quite the same thing but I'm right at the cusp between the 45 and the
52 with about an 80.5 PBH/70cm saddle height. So, literally the last model
of overlap. I started with the 52 in the H, and eventually switched to the
45 but in L. I don't suspect the fit and position I have is quite what R
If you have the mounting bracket off an old road-style brake lever body,
you can take the screw out of the insertion portion of the Mirrycle, saw
the tapered stem off, then get an appropriate bolt to go through the mirror
mount and into the brake clamp and tighten it down. I did basically that
And after I posted this I looked at the photo again and was reminded it got
bent when the bike fell over this week, so I went ahead and gave my
extension arm a new screw so I could show the extension too. It takes an
8/32 screw (I'm using a 3" one with two metal spacers and a nut to extend
it).
Hey again! I've been using a Topeak Road Morph G on mine, the provided
mounting bracket works a champ. I tried an HPX but couldn't find a
placement I liked on the Clem, and, if we're being honest, I like the mini
floor pump design of the Topeak better anyway.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/zedma
pb - I use mine with a shorter stem (10cm, not 12 or 13cm) and don't have
any problem with flex. The long stems plus the Clem still slightly confuse
me for most uses, the whole reason for the extra length of the Clem's
effective top tube length I gathered from the long development history was
s
ite ups by
> the list members are better. The review seemed to have wandered.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Thursday, September 8, 2016 at 6:57:18 PM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
>> pb - I use mine with a shorter stem (10cm, not 12 or 13cm) and don't have
&
ct your times are as good as or
> better than your other bikes, and why do you enjoy the Clem more?
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
>
> On 09/08/16, Zed Martinez> wrote:
>
> John, she does say it's not the review itself. Just some initial thoughts
I rode the 38mm 650b New Xpress last year. Good ride, feel fast, not the best
at cornering but not awful, they were the only tire I've ever commuted on that
had zero flats while I ran them. Glad others have had less flats with Compass,
but I had the flats the first month I ran them and still occ
Well, yanno, the Wright brothers were in bikes before they made planes...
;) They never get enough credit for reverse-threading the left pedal so it
stays tight over time.
But, on a more etymological level, cockpit is from boats first. It's where
the coxswain was, and was where navigation and s
I got stopped the other month in my neighborhood by a guy in a car, who
rolled his window down to ask me something. I popped my headphone out
(which I often use in my neighborhood when off for a commute), expecting to
have to try and give some impromptu directions as that's what usually
happens
I've never had good luck with braking power on mirror-finished rims. At
least, the VO ones were terrible for it. I think it's something in the
anodization that hardens them, they never seem to get their surface to
groove and seat properly. Low stopping power and lots of noise with 4
different t
Now that I have the 650b Clem and a pair of Nokian A10s coming from Peter
White I don't see myself using the old twitchy 700c hybrid as the winter
ride anymore, and that leaves me with a pair of Schwalbe Winter Marathons
I'd like to pass on to someone who could use them. 700c x 35mm, used a
cou
Sale pending
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Hey now, I'm a designer and I went Riv because I think Grant's one of the
few always constantly applying the real tenants of design to his work,
while a lot of the bigger companies chase something a little closer to
fashion. Good design should always seek to first solve the problems of the
user
I'm trying to find the link, I saw the results of a lab study on this just
recently, but can't find it yet. If I recall, good carbon fiber is strong.
Really strong. It outlasted the steel by a lot in the lab test. Even Grant
has found this before, in their impromptu fork sword fight the CF one
lf.
On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 3:32:53 PM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> I'm trying to find the link, I saw the results of a lab study on this just
> recently, but can't find it yet. If I recall, good carbon fiber is strong.
> Really strong. It outlasted the steel by a lot in
Pierre, I know Bike Index is working to establish itself as an answer to Q1
of yours. I believe two separate efforts merged their resources together to
make it. I make sure all of my rides are registered with it, at any rate:
https://bikeindex.org/
On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 11:50:22 AM UTC
Hey all, just bumping this in a new thread because the last one wasn't
particularly named for where it ended up going, and was getting a bit
buried anyway. Just reminding everyone if they were interested in one of
the Old Man Petersen's House of Ferrous Velocipedes and Canvas Curios seat
tube v
BikeSnob's. No leaking it to Grant, the Snob asked for some to give to him
himself, since it was his joke.
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 8:40:29 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>
> That's a great sticker Zed. Just to be clear, was it made with Grant's,
> BSNYCs, or both of their blessings?
--
You rece
ion
> to this group? Unlikely.
>
> dougP
>
> On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 6:31:30 PM UTC-8, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> BikeSnob's. No leaking it to Grant, the Snob asked for some to give to
>> him himself, since it was his joke.
>>
>> On Tuesday, Ja
Glad to see you finally got the rack sorted, Tim! Sorry to hear about your
girl and hope things are getting better. Sounds like it was a fun ride,
though. Wish I could help you more on the wobble thing... my 52cm with rack
only does the usual wobble at low speeds, and it cleans up as it goes. I
Hey Pudge, see my first post in this thread for the address.
On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 1:37:29 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>
> What's the address to send the self-addressed envelope and $$$ to?
>
>
>
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf
Thanks, Tim. And hey, for better or worse I consider 'no hands' to be the
fifth really good hand position on my albastches, a habit I picked up from
my Simcoe roadster which is so stable and so limited in hand grips that it
became habit for me to ride long stretches of the trail out here just
l
Like Bill, wabi-sabi was the philosophy I knew of and work to embrace more.
Nothing lasts, nothing is finished, nothing is perfect.
On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 7:19:13 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I would not call it a direct translation to Japanese, but the Japanese
> world view that
I'm running cantilevers on my 52cm Clem just fine. The original concept
spec for the Clems also said either V or cantis worked great on it. I'm
using a standard Tektro binder bolt hanger on the rear and the Tektro
fork-mounted one on the front.
Matter o'fact, here's a canti'd Clementine from th
> rear (like the Nitto or Surly) would allow for a more gradual curve in the
> housing under the seat.
>
> On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 10:08 AM, Zed Martinez > wrote:
>
>> I'm running cantilevers on my 52cm Clem just fine. The original concept
>> spec for the Clems a
#x27;s certainly not a dealbreaker, if I decide on
> buying it then v-brakes certainly would be fine. Just considering options.
> David
>
> On Thursday, January 28, 2016 at 10:08:18 AM UTC-6, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> I'm running cantilevers on my 52cm Clem just fine. The
I like friction rear shifting because on modern hyperglide style cassettes
it's a lot easier to just skim across gears to the one I want out of the
stack, instead of having to click 3 or 4 times after every stop over the
course of just a few seconds. On my albastaches, I also like how it becomes
>
> I'm still searching for the perfect 650b Clem tires. Saw someone call
> themselves the Emelda Marcos of bike tires and I could easily go that
> direction. I'm back to thinking something in the 38-40 range but nicer than
> the stock Kendra's. Compass, Kojack, Pari Moto? Anything you reccomen
Definitely add the Soma New Xpress to your list to look at, then. Made by
Panaracer with their Palsea tread, gumwalls. They're pretty darn light for
tough tires, and the kevlar alternative casing rode better than any
Schwalbe I have tried and was definitely not prone to picking up flats.
They'r
Glad ya like it! And it does look quite sharp on your Atlantis. I've got
mine on my Clem, where I maybe could've gone with a slightly yellower tan,
but I was trying to match as many Rivvy colors as I could more or less, so
I think the way it came out is the way it needed
to. https://www.flickr.
I'm using a Pinhead locking skewer on my Clem right now. As Riv warns, they
work, but you'll eventually chip the paint. In keeping with that Clemmy
spirit I decided that was an OK compromise, plus with my saddle bag always
hanging over it it's not like any touch-up paint in the future will be so
Hey, I like my khaki ones.
On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 7:07:24 PM UTC-5, Neil wrote:
>
> Looks like all sizes of the Compass Bicycles riding knickers are back in
> stock, in gray (no more khaki, yay!). Supposedly some modest improvements
> over the last version. Mine should arrive tomorro
>
>
> - WTH are 'Kwik Bitumen' tires? Extra points for getting 'bitumen' on a
> sidewall!
>
>
>
Kenda Kwik Bitumens? They're like Schwalbe's Delta Cruiser commuter tires,
is my impression. One of my boss's Cannondale Quick wears them too, so,
Riv's not the only one speccing them. Nothing specia
That oughtta be fun! I always felt the Clems were destined for some
all-roads rough stuff like the Hunqapillar myself (and evidenced by my own
Clem build). The stack/reach on them is actually oddly close to the specs
on a lot of adventure bikes and fat bikes, despite how different they look
fro
I have some thoughts on this, after a winter of various ugly wind
conditions and trying to find the position I like best on my Clem. One is,
the stack and reach if you measure them out on the Clems is not nearly as
extreme as the bikes look. Part of that whole 'expanded frame' notion. For
the 5
k bar' column,
fit-wise.
On Thursday, March 3, 2016 at 7:04:29 AM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> I have some thoughts on this, after a winter of various ugly wind
> conditions and trying to find the position I like best on my Clem. One is,
> the stack and reach if you measure them o
Not a direct answer to the Pass & Stow specifically, but I use the Surly
Nice Rack on the front of my Clem with a couple front panniers and an Acorn
rando bag resting on top. I'm trying like one of Grant's bikes and just
living with all those on the bike. It seems to handle weight in the
pannie
The newest Rivendell Reader had a handy-dandy table breaking down all their
current bikes they should really have on the site somewhere, it's a good,
quick overview for where the different models fall:
http://imgur.com/UPvCmy0
The Joe is more of a road touring model, and uses lighter tubing and
Mark, the only reason I mention the bar/saddle height relationship thing is
because of my experience using it with the albastaches. The same theory from
the expanded sizing that lets the bars come back at you fast as they come up
thanks to slack head tubes also makes them go away from you fast a
what size cogs are on the cluster.
> I lean toward the idea that our bodies can adapt to a pretty wide range of
> positions on a bicycle and still be efficient and more or less comfortable.
> In fact, the comfortability factor of the Boscos may be what is unnerving
> me a bit.
>
>
Wasn't the Hillborne more or less literally just a Homer-like bike with the
expanded geo/fewer sizes and made in Taiwan things? That was the impression
I always got from the Readers when they announced them, anyway.
I wonder if the rider weight thing with the Chev is the step-through and
lack o
;> the Hillborne was introduced as a bike that is halfway between Homer and
>> Atlantis. Having ridden both, I think Homer is faster.
>>
>>
>> On Mar 13, 2016, at 6:19 PM, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> Wasn't the Hillborne more or less literally
Just to pick the minds of y'all wonderful people. I'm trying Bosco regulars
on my Clem after a rough winter of strong headwinds proving the albastaches
and my wrists weren't getting along when used on the Clem. I already had a
100mm Technomic Deluxe around I'd use with the albas on a different b
octite trick for sleeved bars, which a shimmed Bosco
> would be similar to.
> David
> Chicago
>
> On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 12:23:54 PM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> Just to pick the minds of y'all wonderful people. I'm trying Bosco
>> regulars on my Clem
Mine was just creaking is I light to moderately rested weight on the ends
of the bars while sitting. Not a major problem, for sure. But darn was it
getting under my skin. I found the old 25.4 quill I had in the same reach
(shorter quill, but hey, I was nearly slamming the Boscos anyway...) Got i
I always do that anyway, Lungimsam. I bike year round in some wet schlock,
so I usually just slather the quill and wedge in grease and wipe off any
that gets squeegeed out. I've had to pull seized aluminum quills out of a
steel steerer before and it's certainly not an experience I'm eager to
re
.
>
> On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 1:48:17 PM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> David, I know. And someday, maybe. Next time the cables need replacing.
>> Put a lot of money on the card switching over to the Bosco cockpit as was
>> (and a month before my wedding
An argument could possibly be made if using a steel handlebar in an
aluminum quill (or the other way around) to prevent, whas-called, galvanic
corrosion isn't it? The same reason forgetting to grease a quill adequately
can lead to it getting stuck in the steerer. In my case, yeah, just doing
it
Oooh, I get to post my first comment over here since thanks to Clem I will
finally be a Riv owner. I went with the green myself. The blue I like best,
but darnit, I just bought a Simcoe roadster last year in a similar (but
matte) hue of blue, and it's staying in my stable and I don't need two bl
> The Clem is a much more laid back, cruiserish, town bike. Upright is way
> upright. Stays are extra long. I think it could handle anything, but it
> wont be quick doing those things.
> Clearances- easier on the Clem, but similar
>
>
I haven't touched either in person, so, I can't say with c
I don't know, it's the smaller Hunq frame pictured on the product page, and
so either a 51 or 54 at that size. Since I didn't know for sure, I sized
things more off the pedal and crankset instead of the seat tubes, there's
definitely some margin for error involved. If anyone know what size the
51cm makes sense, the seat tube in the overlay is slightly shorter on the Hunq
so I was suspecting that. The wheel discrepancy is there, you can see the
Hunq's wheels are complete while the Clem's are cut off at the bottom of the
shot. If my maths aren't failing me, a 26" wheel tuning 2.3" max t
Jim, regarding your thoughts, I'm with you to that extent. Certainly the
wheelbase, bb drop, tire size, fork rake, head tube angle, seat tube angle
and all that go together to form how the thing rides. But I guess what I
was going for is how you choose to build it up to fit it mostly matters in
They're in the Clem Smith section. But, they still say to check back on
4/6. They haven't reopened them after asking the first-wavers if they
wanted to upgrade to a full build or not. So, right now, you still can't
preorder one again. They're supposed to be back up... sometime soon. They
were a
Not quite to all your needs sadly (it's primary component is neoprene), but
the snowmobiling 'Fog eVader' mask and some big old goggles are the only
thing I found which work on my deep winter commutes. My route is a rail
trail though, so, it's mostly 6 miles of head-wind I'm grunting against.
I
Actually, Nokian/Suomi does make the A10 which is more commuting and less off
road oriented. I've used the 622-35 Scwalbe Winter Marathons on a previous bike
and am now trying the 574-40 Suomi A10s on my own Clem. The A10 has fewer
spikes than the Winter Marathon so not as grippy on ice but it s
Sorry. Dang phone. I of course meant I am trying the 584-40 A10s.
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I have come to love mine. I have the widest ones they sell on a 52cm Clem
using a 100mm stem, and the grips are perfect for me. I had some initial
problems, part of which were trying to use them like I did north roads and
albstaches and I quickly found out that wasn't going to work. I couldn't
Bump, still available if anyone needs a winter project. Had to update the
CL post for more
details:
https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/bik/d/rivendell-clem-smith-jr-52cm/6758376973.html
On Friday, November 2, 2018 at 9:35:18 AM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> OK, this is still ava
Sale pending. Thanks everyone for the interest and feedback.
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T
Sorry, yes, sold.
On Sunday, December 9, 2018 at 1:42:49 PM UTC-5, ctifusion wrote:
>
> Sold?
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