r one
day. That's just a possibility, not certainty. However, this is all easy
for me to say. I have the same habits you do!
Good luck!
Ginz
On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 9:49:30 AM UTC-5 Josh C wrote:
> Hello all. I find myself trying to make a decision regarding which bike to
Rivendell Reader #42, original copy, good condition.
I found an extra on my shelf.
First response takes it, free.
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Claimed!
On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 8:58:13 PM UTC-5 Ginz wrote:
> Rivendell Reader #42, original copy, good condition.
>
> I found an extra on my shelf.
>
> First response takes it, free.
>
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Soma Fab has a 42cm Buena Vista Mixte. I don't think it gets you a MUCH
shorter top tube (518mm vs the typical 525mm or 540mm on a 48cm frame) ,
but it is easier to mount for a smaller rider.
They also go on sale now and then.
On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 12:46:08 PM UTC-5 Michael Morriss
Actually, I was thinking of putting one of these away for my kids.
Unfortunatley, the 42cm model only fits 26" wheels on the
dual-pivot/centerbull brake version, 49-57mm reach. Not the end of the
world but not at good as canti brakes.
On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 11:21:11 AM UTC-5
e wiring
route under my fender and I gave up and went with a stay mounted light.
Message me directly.
Thanks,
Ginz
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perience, I wouldn't want to swap bars more than once in a
while unless I really had a space limitation and extra time to plan my
rides. But, of course it can be done.
Good Luck!
Ginz
On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 8:24:41 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
> Let me suggest that you g
How long are your arms? For me, that would be the deciding factor as to
whether I'd want a longer or shorter top tube.
On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 8:37:05 PM UTC-4 Valerie Yates wrote:
> I am 5'6 with an 83 pbh and not long torso. For me, the medium Susie is
> perfect. The bike overall feels bi
Hello Everyone,
I know that Bullmoose has be discussed quite a bit around here.
I have the 150mm extension bullmoose from Rivendell. The rise, especially
on my Hunqapiller with the stem slammed, is a bit too much.
Has anyone come up with a stem/bar combination that is both similar to the
swee
I should have said similar sweep angle and overall extension, which is
roughly negative by a few centimeters!
On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:41:39 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I know that Bullmoose has be discussed quite a bit around here.
>
> I have the
ve you seen the bullbar? I have it on my Atlantis and really like it
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/handlebar-nitto-b901raa?srsltid=AfmBOoo21TuxDTc8_5dZM40Q4_DdekPaU69INyKw7NqX6RjQ_0rQZWdr
>
> Max
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:46:49 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
&g
> jared
> SC, CA
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 12:30:38 PM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>
>> Ah, ok. I did not see the bull bar. Does Nitto consider this to be an
>> "off road" bar?
>>
>> So it requires the nitto faceplater stem, which is ok.
>>
s another valid option, I'm eying them up for another project I'm
> working on if I can't find a 610 Ahearne Map bar.
>
> Best
>
> jared
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 1:07:50 PM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>
>> Jared,
>>
>> So, it really is th
ld cut the fork by
15mm and if that is low enough. I hate to do it, but I'm on the smallest
end of the size range for this 48cm frame and so, why not? I feel like
that huge stack of spacers was meant for folks much taller than me.
Ginz
On Tuesday, August 27, 2024 at 11:45:43 AM UTC-4 Brent
Not sure if you saw my reply about the Marathon Mondials. If interested,
let me know.
On Monday, September 9, 2024 at 7:45:18 PM UTC-4 nicklin...@gmail.com wrote:
> Consider Continental’s “Double Fighter”. 1.9” with a bit of knobs, but so
> comfortable on both asphalt & dry dirt. Reasonable pr
Here's a blast from the past.
Bike Buddy allows one to mount a large bottle, vacuum bottle, etc to your
frame's existing bottle mount. If you dislike the look of Voile straps,
this is for you.
https://www.bikebuddy.co.uk/shop.asp
This is the MK3 version which includes the quick release feature
For an over-nighter, I usually do two rear panniers and something in the
front -- usually a basket or I strap a something to the bars.
It's nice to have more capacity than you need because you don't have to be
so fussy with packing. Throw stuff in the bike and go! If packing is too
tedious
I don’t know of any taller V brakes. This is a well known problem with that
style rack. I recommend Shimano CX cantis for this situation.
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For those with the double ventile greenspot, do reserve that for colder
weather? I generally like to layer under my jacket and use a thinner jacket. I
almost worry the single greenspot will be too heavy for me, but I guess I have
thinner jacket for warmer weather.
I have a ventile dress rainco
I can say that the tread pattern on my 26x2.35" is different on the one I
just purchased vs. the one that is 5-8 years old.
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I also did this but my hub was older and didn't have the field serviceable
axel. I mailed it in and they switched the end caps with a press. Cost me
not a ton of money, but I don't recall how much. Email their customer
service and I bet they can get you set up.
>
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I went from 130 to 135 and recall I did have to redish a little bit because
they only replace one cap in this scenario. I don’t remember which side.
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I once destroyed one by sneaking the shifter off without loosening the cable
when swapping brake levers. The metal plate that covers the ratchet came loose
and it was ruined. Is that what’s happening in there? They don’t necessarily
last forever, unfortunately
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ound 67 gear inches for fixed gear on road.
YMMV.
Ginz
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What 26” tires to you have? I just ordered a set of marathon plus 2.0”.
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That said, I would look at the true specs of the Marathons and make sure
you are getting the actual size you desire relative to the Big Bens.
Ginz
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Try these folks. If that part is easily replaceable, they may ship it to
you.
https://www.transportcycle.com/frame-shop/brooks-saddle-repair/
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I think they show putting them in a vice, covering them with a cloth or
block of wood and tapping them with a mallet.
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quot;
tires on them. I don't notice much of a difference. Oh well!
I thought about running 2.5" tires but wondered what incredibly wide rims
I'd need to do it!
Ginz
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I like black with that frame color.
On Tuesday, June 23, 2020 at 9:14:16 AM UTC-4 Will Ashe wrote:
>
>
>
> Plus 1 on the black. It's a nice contrast with the butternut/mustard frame.
>>
>>
> Will Ashe
>
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Check the iBob group if you are on it. There is the exact same thread running
this week and someone is selling a few options!
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I would not say the cork grips add comfort. In fact, I've found the "real"
cork ones to be less shaped and comfortable than the cheaper "chopped and
formed" ones than are available everywhere. And I never ever ride them
without gloves for grip.
As others have said, ESI silicone grips and Ou
ld estimate the spacers would
have to be 2-3mm at all three bolt locations.
Does that seem advisable? The was some recent discussion of this in the
forums and I wouldn't hesitate to run a few spacers. But, I may be unwise.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WnQDYDUM6SrXjWSc8
Best Regards,
ginz
-
I ruined a Silver shifter by removing it while the cable was still on. I got
away with it a few times but eventually the cover of a ratchet mechanism bent
and it was toast. If I have to remove one I now always unbolt the cable clamp
at the derailleur.
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Amazing Goop “houshold” aka “household hogar”. It is Contact cement. Cork
breaks up as you remove it but not terribly so. Heat gun would probably help.
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Shimano cx-50.
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To view this discussion on the web visit
http
My recollection is that Hunqapillar top tubes were relatively longer and were
more for bullmoose and albatross than drop bars. This was long before the
super long tubes and super long sweep bars.
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You can use Velo orange city levers.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-levers/products/city-bike-brakes-levers
Inverse levers would also work if you aren’t using bar end shifters.
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T
I had the MKS Urban Step-in B and Lambda combination for a while. These
are my thoughts:
I really did not like the Step-in B pedals. I am a Time ATAC lover and
that fact that the MKS used the same cleats was a huge plus. However, I
found the break-in period for the Step-in B pedals was incre
Ok, I should have researched first.I cannot comment on the "SPD"
pedal. My feedback would only related to "Step-In A" pedal that Rene Herse
does not carry!
On Thursday, June 3, 2021 at 10:15:41 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
> I had the MKS Urban Step-in B and Lambda
I have a pair of 3/4" but I think that's too big unless your stays are
big. If not, let me know.
On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 12:16:26 PM UTC-4 S. Greco wrote:
> Mc-Master Carr is the best source for stuff like this. They have just
> about any size, and you can get them in stainless as well:
>
>
A Nitto Mark's rack can be situated so that offset stays are parallel to
the ground and bolted to the top of the fork crown. I tried it once and it
made the rack ride very high.
I'm not sure what else can be done, but those bosses have been on forks for
quite a few years now.
On Tuesday, July
I have and still use rapid rise on several bikes. I thought the
"disadvantage" was that up-shifts were slower. From a race and performance
point of view, up-shifts should be faster. You need to be able to shift up
while you hammer.
I finally gave in and put a 2x10 on my hardtail and the rapi
Hello,
Has anyone tried to fit the Tumbleweed T-Rack or Pannier Rack (355mm deck
height?) on a Hunqapillar or similar 26" fork using the bosses on top of
the fork crown?
I'm wondering if that would work. Some bending of the rack stays might be
required by I can't tell if the stays' mounting b
arance issues with the tire. "
>>
>> Regarding the says, I trimmed mine and it looks great.
>>
>> Josh in NYC
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 12:52 PM Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> Has anyone tried to fit the Tu
include this feature on their
>> racks?].
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 6:08:51 AM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, I hadn't considered the spacing.
>&g
Hello,
I have a new in the sealed bag Nitto Dirt Drop stem, 8cm, 26.0.
Bought it from Rivendell last year and never used it.
$68 shipped in CONUS.
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Coil up the extra wire, zip tie it to the other wire, anything it takes to
just hide it. And, like the others said, tape the two conductors so they
cannot ever touch each other.
You never know if you'll want to use it in the future. Maybe you won't
like the light and want to sell it. Or, mayb
I have always done rapid rise and I find that it provides the most benefit
with indexed shifting. Beware of switching to rapid rise later in life.
You may be permanently confused about which way to shift, whether you use
STI, rapid fire, grip shift, or thumbies. With bar ends or any friction
s are strong enough for the Silvers on
the Albatross mounted inside. Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and
still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
Thanks for any thoughts!
Ginz
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Hi Garth,
I'm thinking of thumbies down by the grip.
On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really
> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and
Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try. I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and
the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make
a change. Need more squish.
On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hey Ginz,
> I've run alb
ble housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.
On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try. I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and
> the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make
> a change. Ne
Laing,
Very interesting! Maybe those Dia Compe's covered with some ESI silicone
tape or similar.
Are they hard plastic? Soft?
Thanks,
Ginz
On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:36:04 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
> Dia Compe makes these, for end mount reversed brake levers, but can be
&g
That or you spilled lunch on your fender!Since it is the end of
winter, may as well do an overhaul, right? Can't go wrong with a
little Framesaver.
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Not too well. The Hunqa frame is still in the box. I'm in that mode
of competing priorities and lack of space for more bikes.
As for freewheels, and not to derail this thread, I would gladly move
to cassettes if a good quality 8sp could be had at a reasonable price.
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Sounds fantastic!
What is your source for skin wall mtb tires?
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rbw-owners
Yes, it is probably worth taking the bolt out because, eventually,
you'll have to deal with it.
You may have simply peeled the threads off of the bolt. Either way,
it's not a huge problem to fix so don't worry too much!!
On Apr 23, 5:28 pm, charlie wrote:
> Use a slightly longer bolt with a nut
You must not be pulling up hard enough andwell off to the
side, if you know what I mean.
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Your bike is a stunner! It is interesting that Rivendell let's a bike
like that go out the door without pasting photos all over the website
and promoting it. Humble, indeed!!
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I'm not a fan of drops, either. My arms are too short. On a
singlespeed/fixed gear, I want something wide for leverage. If you go
with a flared drop like the On One Midge, be aware that you will have
to be stretched out and on the hooks to take advantage of the bars
width when standing and stoping
I'm using the IRD with a Silver bar end shifter and I find that it
takes an awful lot of force to shift to the big cog. I literally tore
a ligament in my thumb on it. Anyone else had success increasing
leverage of the cable's pull?
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Oh, and I'm running a 26/36/46 and other than the above issue, the IRD
shifts perfectly.
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Thomas,
Thanks for pointing out the lack of bungee hook. I would have
completely overlooked that. I also like that rack and maybe I would
make a small bungee hook from a piece of scrap metal.
How about some photos with your TourSacks installed!!
ginz
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Steve,
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I hurt my thumb shifting to the big
chainring. I had a habit of grabbing the bar end shifter and prying
with my thumb like a can opener.
Ginz
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Since I need a braze-on front der. that will work with a 26/36/46, I
ordered an old, cheap Shimano from eBay. I swear that the lever arm
(near the cable anchor) on my IRD der. is ironically not providing
enough leverage when combined with the Silver shifter. I'll report
back on this combo in a fe
Steve,
Is that a 48cm? I had the same exact problem with my 48cm XO-2. The
headtube was too short for a dirt drop and I couldn't get enough
height out of it! I'm now a believer in headtube extensions.
Great looking bike, btw.
Ginz
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ctive cockpit length and bar height with your change in comfort
level.
Ginz
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x27;m sticking with the XCE. I imagine that if indexing,
specifically with brifters or rapid fire, the difference would be less
noticeable if at all.
If I can find a few more XCE's or similar to stock pile, I'll probably
unload my IRD's here!
Ginz
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I would love to know the correct torque specs on brake cable anchor
bolts. I seem to always gall them out. I just don't want that cable
to break loose!
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Agreed, in my book, SKS are the standard. The metal fenders are
beautiful but I'm afraid I'll bend them to their ruin. Also, there's
the SKS quick release clip with is a feature I enjoy.
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To p
It won't depend so much on the frame as it will on your rear hub and
cassette or freewheel. Assuming you have a 135mm hub that is,
presumably a 9speed or 8speed freehub, a 113mm is probably the best
choice. If you are using a 7sp or 8sp freewheel hub, not as likely
given the 135mm spacing, tell u
To me, brazing a handle to the seat tube is in the "whack-job"
category. A triangular frame bag is a possibility.
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0mm but you may want to email Riv to be certain. My Hunq'a
frame is still in the box at the moment so I'm not sure either. :)
Ginz
On Jun 20, 11:54 am, Garth wrote:
> Hi Ginz, I currently am using 135mm Phil 7sp FW hubs with multiple
> sets of wheels. I may go to a 9sp. cass
Chaincase. I would still put on two rings and shift with a big stick!
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rbw
I never thought of using a shorter spindle to get a better
(straighter) angle between the middle ring and the big cogs. That's
where I spend most of my time. :)
That makes a lot of sense!
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Great idea. The photoshoppers are now hard at work adding triple diag-
a-tubes, invert-a-tubes and xris-xross-tubes!
On Jun 22, 4:24 am, charlie wrote:
> Just have a cobbled together gag bike made up to freak everyone out
> withthen reveal the actual bicycle. But the gag bike has to work
>
All other differences aside, I think some folks would prefer the
single top-tubed Atlantis over the Hunq simply based on asthetics.
That is a perfectly resonable feeling. It took me a while, but I have
come to like the double-tube.
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Has anyone had any luck servicing their non-FSA hub? Phil Wood
customer service suggested I insert a QR skewer at an angle and tap
(slam!) it on a hard surface to push the oppossite end cap off. I
tried it years ago but was very shy about it. Anyone tried this
technique?
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Nice Hunq'a! Skinny tires, though!
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>
> I have a cut one as well. If the other's are already cut too short...drop
> me a line and I'll measure mine for you.
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I'm not sure this things is such a great idea. What happens when you are
on that ride on the 364th day of year 36, it's raining and dark and you
light goes out?
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I agree with the p-55. The p-65 was massive overkill on 1.75's and I finally
switched to the p-55.
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On my mountain bike a rock flipped up and bit the chain right on the
powerlink! The powerlink went flying and about ten minutes of searching
was fruitless. I don't recall if I had a spare power link or if I
shortened the chain. Either way I generally carry a mini chain tool.
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In this situation, when a square taper is called for, I'd go for a Shimano,
see how long it lasts and if you need a new BB in one year or five,
re-evaluate.
I scrounged my Phils from swap meets and what not so my investment was far
lower.
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I, too, have a 48cm Hunqapillar with CX70 Cantis and the Nitto Mini. Now,
on my fork, I have to use the Tektro Fork-Crown mounted cable stop to
prevent chatter and moaning. I tried a million different setups -- v
brakes, pads, etc. Nothing else stopped the noise. I have a dia-comp
straddle
Mike,
You are tempting me to switch from Marathons to the Compass 26x1.75". Are
these really gonna change my life? I don't consider myself a tire
connoisseur by any means.
It's hard to find a lighter weight version of a 26x1.75" tire.
Thanks,
Eric
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I'd eliminate one of the tubes. A single tube with patches should be
sufficient. The Silver shifter washers weight almost zero, but. that's
the sort of thing I wouldn't carry. I would also not carry extra batteries
for my taillight. Heck, I'd sooner carry a small extra taillight that runs
I am using a 119 or 121mm (can't remember which) asym Phil Wood on an XT
triple that came with biopace. Chainline is perfect.
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For the Paul brakes you need the Paul adapter. It is special.
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Not that I have $1,600 in my art budget, but I would love to buy one, hang
it on the wall and await he growth of my children.
However, that standover on the smallest size is just about .5 to 1.0" too
much for me to even possibly straddle, which, on a tandem, seems important.
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SJS cycles seems to have the R10 in stock. I got mine from that shop in
Japan... Can't remember the name. Shipping was very reasonable.
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There is a small mixte on the Bilenky site. They sent out w Facebook blast
advertising it for $1400 today only. Check it out. It is a 3 speed, though.
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Low trail, I would guess not. But I would also guess long reach calipers.
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Now how can a S be right for someone 5'10"? Isn't that excluding at least
everyone under 5'8"? I guess that's the plan.
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If you are are riding really rocky, rooty, steep trails where rear brake is
primary, then I can certainly understand v brake on the rear. (On my Small
Hunqapillar, the rear cable stop is in such a tight spot I gave up and put v
brake on).
Now, on the front, my hunqapillar has terrible shutter.
kes and am trying to
figure it out.
Ginz
On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:59:32 PM UTC-4 David B wrote:
> I've had lofty goals to increase riding while working from home - those
> were unrealistic with young kids - and I'm now leaning towards one 'nice'
> bik
Analog has a used 55cm Sam Hilborne complete. I just happened to be looking at
it.
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Which hubs? ;)
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What size a’person do you suspect that’s right for? I have trouble telling with
these mixtes.
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