Love the photos, Jim! Glacier is one of my favorite places in the world.
How was the riding? Did you find traffic to be a problem at this time of
year?
Brian
Seattle, WA
On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 11:10 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
thill@gmail.com> wrote:
> Just got back from a memorab
Since the Rom wasn't made in 60 cm, perhaps the OP simply mis remembered,
or mis measured. The asking price is high. Similarly, an overpriced blue 56
cm Ram did not sell in the past week either.
On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 11:57 PM, rob markwardt wrote:
> here's the poop.
>
> http://www.cyclofiend.co
On Fri, 2012-08-17 at 21:12 -0500, John Blish wrote:
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Reid wrote:
>
>
>
> On Friday, August 17, 2012 8:58:57 AM UTC-7, john blish
> wrote:
> The ad may be completely legit and the bike the
> property of the
Fantastic Jim, thanks for posting, WOW!
Dave Nawrocki
Fort Collins, CO
- Original Message -
From: "Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery"
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 12:10:43 AM
Subject: [RBW] Montana photos
Just got back from a memorable 6 days of
Bobby,
I sent you some pics of my saddle. Did they make it?
Best,
Clyde
On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 10:51 AM, Montclair BobbyB <
montclairbob...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Clyde:
>
> I have a newish B68 Honey (in great shape) that I might consider trading,
> but would like to see a photo... I can provide
>
> Nice shots!!! Beautiful.
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Wait, so is it possible then to just take off my 10-speed shimano cassette,
and put on the 7-speed shimano cassette, and use it with the ultegra
derailer I have in friction?
I could set the limit screws so the derailer wouldn't move too far?
Or would a 7-speed cassette be the same width as a 10-s
I have not had any problem mating silver shifters with a good Shimano 9
speed cassette and a good conex chain. I ran into a lot of trouble with an
inexpensive SRAM chain & cassette. I do get occasional ghost shifts with
the same set up on BE, but it always seems to be connected to a slightly
Very sweet looking. It reignites my Atlantis lust! What kind of pedals am
I seeing? There is definitely a learning curve to Paul's cantis, but after
a short while it will seem very easy to readjust them, or take them on &
off when you want to.
Michael
On Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:29:52 AM
You can replace your 10 speed cassette with a 7 speed. You will need to add
a spacer like this:
http://www.jensonusa.com/!dKSLZ62ZteeEKb6SVVR8ZA!/Cassette-Spacer
You will also need to adjust your limit screws.
David
Charlotte, NC
On Saturday, August 18, 2012 9:05:51 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote
That'll be a great build as is -- budget or no.
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 1:32 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: I've got a projec
You can use regular, inter-cog spacers. I squeeze two of them at the
back end of the cassette so that I can use just seven at the for'ard
end of the f/hub body.
On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 7:34 AM, David Spranger wrote:
> You can replace your 10 speed cassette with a 7 speed. You will need to add
> a
What time?
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 17, 2012, at 8:26 PM, Manuel Acosta wrote:
> Sorry folks looks like I have to cancel this event. With school starting on
> monday, I have to go in tomorrow to set up my classroom. Still doing a ride
> to halfmoon bay for bbq but it's going to be on Sunday
Are all sizes being discussed in this thread thought of as center-to-top?
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 18, 2012, at 4:03 AM, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> On Fri, 2012-08-17 at 21:12 -0500, John Blish wrote:
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Reid wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>On Friday, Au
Oh my! I'm kicking myself for not buying a Saluki when they first came out.
I've been thinking about buying an AHH in butterschotch sometime next year.
-Steve
Seattle
On Friday, August 17, 2012 9:06:12 AM UTC-7, jeffrey kane wrote:
>
> Sorry, been having an amazing 18 months on this baby and ju
Hello,
I have a chain guard that I peeled of the chainstay and there is lotsa glue
goo left behind.
I tried water, alcohol, and degreaser (not intentional), but all I get is
some paint tint on the rag. The goo wont go.
Anything I can try next? Don't wanna damage the finish.
I don't wanna
Try Goo Gone, which you can find at most any hardware store.
--Eric N
On Aug 18, 2012, at 8:44 AM, lungimsam wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a chain guard that I peeled of the chainstay and there is lotsa glue
> goo left behind.
>
> I tried water, alcohol, and degreaser (not intentional), but a
I used denatured alcohol, worked nice and easy. You have to use the
hardware store stuff, not the drug store stuff.
On Aug 18, 2012 11:44 AM, "lungimsam" wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a chain guard that I peeled of the chainstay and there is lotsa
> glue goo left behind.
>
> I tried water, alcohol
What's the process?
Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
What type of clearcoat do they put on it?
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Could you post some close ups of the headbadge, dt emblem, and st emblem?
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To post to t
Hello,
In Just ride, Grant talks about many aspects of fit, but doesn't go into
detail about reach fore/aft of saddle to bars. Also, about how far behind
the center of crank the saddle should be.
These two dimensions could have a big effect on comfort.
How do you set yours up?
How does Riv se
They have a video on the website showing the standard process
On Aug 18, 2012 11:49 AM, "lungimsam" wrote:
> What's the process?
> Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
> What type of clearcoat do they put on it?
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Group
Someone on the BOB list was just selling one:
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/internet-bob/-/Gy2Ef0D8sisJ
On Aug 17, 2012 10:28 AM, "Dave" wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> Interested in any of your not-being-used Nitto racks: Mark's, small, or
> big rear rack
>
> Let me know if you have one you'd like
HI my 56 cm simple one was stolen off my porch last night if anyone sees
it. It had a dura ace headset, phil bottom bracket, ta cranks, black sun
tour xc pedals, phil track wheels, white industries dos freewheel, nitto
post and stem albatross bars, paul levers and cantilevers, honey brooks b
1
Thanks for the suggestions; unfortunately I ended up just working the whole
time. I'm sure I'll be back, though!
Andrew
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Tried to post this to rivbike.com, but they only allow 1000 characters and
this review is about 5X that.
Hope it helps anyone looking at the Hillborne.
This review is overdue, I have had the bike almost 2 years now, and its
been through a few configurations. I didn't love it at first, but I r
That's absurdly yummy. Was it built originally with the bridge in the rear
for a centerpull? Like, did it precede the existence of Silver sidepulls?
I'm swooning over your fender clearances.
On Friday, August 17, 2012 9:06:12 AM UTC-7, jeffrey kane wrote:
>
> Sorry, been having an amazing 1
Headset and BB overhauled. I'm taking the frame and rear wheel to the LBS
for derailer hanger alignment. That's one too for which there is no
substitute that I'll probably never buy.
On Saturday, August 18, 2012 6:55:12 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
>
> That'll be a great build as is -- budget or
One exceedingly important principle is: don't move your saddle to
adjust reach to the bar. In fact, I agree with many that saddle
position -- height, tilt and, especially, fore/aft situation -- is the
starting point for everything else.
See PJW's well known bike fit article:
http://www.peterwhitec
The saddle should never be adjusted relative to the bars, but should be
adjusted relative to the pedal. I use the traditional patella above the
pedal spindle (pedal at 90 degrees horizontal and forward) as the starting
point and then adjust for comfort from there. I realize that arguments
hav
Reflecting further on my own comments, maybe I should clarify -- when I was
fit and strong and could climb seated in relatively big gears, my saddle
was further back. Now I spin climbs rather than pounding them. My saddle
is still further back than the patella-over-spindle starting point, but
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTGtoTlJyh0
- David G in SF
On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 8:49 AM, lungimsam wrote:
> What's the process?
> Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
> What type of clearcoat do they put on it?
>
>
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That'll be a nice ride... You could also eBay the slingshot stem/bar combo
and the Deore brake levers and shifters to virtually eliminate any cash
outlay... Heck, I'll give you $100 for all three
BB
On Friday, August 17, 2012 1:31:52 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
>
> I'm taking the budget route
Sorry to hear of your loss. Do tell if it was locked what type of lock and to
what it was locked.
Keep a eye out for the components on craigslist.
Phil B
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I'm looking for a Mark's front rack for my Hillborne. I have a Nitto front
rack (for cantis) but I need the sidepull version now.
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Citra-solv is the best I've found. Stronger than goo-gone. Use outside
if possible as the orange smell lingers a while!
Best,
joe broach
portland, or
On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 8:44 AM, lungimsam wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a chain guard that I peeled of the chainstay and there is lotsa glue
> goo l
I'll be looking for it, Dylan.
On Friday, August 17, 2012 2:15:43 PM UTC-5, dylan alverson wrote:
>
> HI my 56 cm simple one was stolen off my porch last night if anyone sees
> it. It had a dura ace headset, phil bottom bracket, ta cranks, black sun
> tour xc pedals, phil track wheels, white in
Pics, pics!! Love to see it.
On Saturday, August 18, 2012 12:23:08 PM UTC-4, Paul Yeoh wrote:
> Tried to post this to rivbike.com, but they only allow 1000 characters
> and this review is about 5X that.
> Hope it helps anyone looking at the Hillborne.
>
>
> This review is overdue, I have had
on the gravel sections, part of which is the ACA Great Divide route, the
main traffic issue was dust. On the Inside North Fork Road, the middle
section of the road is closed to cars for various reasons. It was a very
rustic wilderness experience, complete with large piles of grizzly poop!
The G
>
> Don't forget the scarf!!
>
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Please tell us it was locked up. Bummer! I really hope you get your bike
back.
Theft is endemic in Winnipeg. I lock the commuters(X0-1, Peugeot PX-10
converted to SS) in the garage and the Rivs I keep in the house.
Unfortunately, if thieves are determined,no security is completely
foolproof b
Custom the best
On Monday, August 13, 2012 7:43:57 PM UTC-5, mike goldman wrote:
>
> i have a copy of the headbadge poster so its easy to peruse...i like the
> second one
>
> mike goldman
>
> warwick,r.i.
>
>
> NetZero now offers 4G m
Not mine, wish it was a 56!
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/3214087117.html
Ryan
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Sold!
On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 12:23 PM, rcnute wrote:
> Not mine, wish it was a 56!
>
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/3214087117.html
>
> Ryan
>
> --
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Hobbits from Rivendell carefully paint each bike.
Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ
On Aug 18, 8:49 am, lungimsam wrote:
> What's the process?
> Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
> What type of clearcoat do they put on it?
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Great to hear the repair-ability part. We hear how steel is easily
repairable, but never really hear of anyone doing it!
On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 11:41 AM, lungimsam wrote:
> Pics, pics!! Love to see it.
>
>
> On Saturday, August 18, 2012 12:23:08 PM UTC-4, Paul Yeoh wrote:
>
>> Tried to post thi
Trolls paint CF?
-Anonymous-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] on
behalf of Jim Cloud [cloud...@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:48 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: How are Rivbikes painted?
Ho
On Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:28:33 PM UTC-4, David G wrote:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTGtoTlJyh0
>
> - David G in SF
>
> On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 8:49 AM, lungimsam
> > wrote:
>
>> What's the process?
>> Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
>> What type of clearcoat do they put on it?
Goof Off. I've used it for this exact purpose and it works like a charm. I
got it at Home Depot
On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 1:23 PM, Joe Broach wrote:
> Citra-solv is the best I've found. Stronger than goo-gone. Use outside
> if possible as the orange smell lingers a while!
>
> Best,
> joe broach
>
I vote for a new model: The Dick Dastardly.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dick_Dastardly
Ryan
On Aug 14, 6:42 am, Marc Schwartz wrote:
> Hola!
>
> Does anyone know where to get a (Rocky the Flying Squirrel) leather aviator
> hat&goggles to wear when "planing" on my Bleriot?
>
> Note; hilariou
7 years ago, I had to bend back my front dropout on the Ram fork. Good as new
in just a few minutes for something that initially had made me gasp. I was
happy to have steel then.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 18, 2012, at 12:49 PM, cyclotourist wrote:
> Great to hear the repair-ability part. We
My favorite part of that video is the seattube panel. He eyes it quickly,
then..BAM. The decal is on perfectly. Amazing.
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.
On Saturday, August 18, 2012 2:01:38 PM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:
>
> On Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:28:33 PM UTC-4, David G wrote:
>>
>> http://www.yout
I'll also keep an eye open. Thought I had the only SimpleOne in the Twin
Cities. Mine is a 60 if anyone sees me on it. Oh, and it has a Shimano
Alfine crank which is about as not a TA crank as one can get.
Bummer on the theft. Hopefully it'll turn up soon.
Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN
On Sat, Aug
I'll post some close ups next week...
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Yes, the bridge is original and the frame has a nice rear cable hanger welded
in place as well ... this, I believe is because the first runs of these frames
predate the silvers or Tektro calipers. I've run both and found a little more
room for the fenders with the center pulls (particularly in f
Nice stuff, did you hand paint that rear rack or find a spray that was a
good match? I am this close to just admitting defeat and bringin in my
Bombadi to the LBS to have them tweak the brakes. I finally got them to
stop squeaking but feel like I need to grip them like a gorilla to make
them work w
The badge is a modified version of one of two cast Saluki badges. You can
see the original in this photo:
*http://tinyurl.com/clmfjfy*
Not sure which came first, but there were two versions of theSaluki badge.
Who doesn't like dogs?
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I only skimmed over that write up, but I think its much simpler to
stick with vertical and horizontal components at the cable attachment
to the brake. The vertical component is independent of straddle wire
angle, the horizontal part goes to infinity as the straddle wire
becomes straight. I think th
I only skimmed over that write up, but I think its much simpler to
stick with vertical and horizontal components at the cable attachment
to the brake. The vertical component is independent of straddle wire
angle, the horizontal part goes to infinity as the straddle wire
becomes straight. I think th
On Tuesday, August 14, 2012 3:29:56 PM UTC-5, Jim Cloud wrote:
>
> I think that an interesting variant of a Rivendell Saluki headbadge
> done as a custom by the owner (Ed Braley), for his personal Saluki
> bicycle is in this Flickr photostream set:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/25373440@N00/
What kind of brakes do you have?
It took me a while to get the cr720s on my Bombadill to run quiet but
they are fine now.
On Aug 18, 6:45 pm, Peter Morgano wrote:
> Nice stuff, did you hand paint that rear rack or find a spray that was a
> good match? I am this close to just admitting defeat and
Paul touring, I noticed now my cable straddle is pretty high but lowering
it means replacement on the cables. Will wait for a rainy day and see if I
can get it right. Front is pretty good but rear is somewhat tight.
On Aug 19, 2012 12:02 AM, "ted" wrote:
> What kind of brakes do you have?
> It
I guess I should weigh in as I was able to have every badge in hand for a
while. I can narrow it down to two. Even though I own a Bombadil and a
Quickbeam, it's a close race between the silver and blue Rivendell "custom"
badge, and the Hunqapiller. Both seen here:
*http://tinyurl.com/cwl2al7*
*
I mean replacing the brake wires, not the actual cables. Not the biggest
job I know but fiddling with brakes is tedious work. I like how the Pauls
have adjustable tension and i would like to acutally have more snap back
but then it really goes gorilla hand mode. Am I missing something to the
setup?
Sometimes it seems that cables are the bane of my existence. I've
taken to leaving em as long as I can minimize the need to replace em
if I decide to change something. I recently replaced an old stem with
a taller one and now the front brake cable and housing are only barely
long enough to permit
I have never used the Pauls, and you have a fair bit more mass to slow
down than I do, so my experiences may not be relevant.
If the straddle wire end of the brake is above the pivot point (when
the pads are touching he rim) then the lower the straddle wire, the
more leverage you are going to get.
>
> I think I will ask my LBS if they can get it done for me 7-speed.
> I'll get a new chain to boot.
> Sounds like easier shifting.
> 10-speed is pretty tight spacing and I get spontaneous shifts if I am not
> careful.
> Wider spacing sounds easier.
> I'll go 7-speed. Less cogs the better I thin
Charlie,
That's an awesome pic of your Green Sam with the cat in the back! Beautiful
colors!
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Speaking of Rivs and s24o and kids... The fam and I spent the last week in
the Emerald City couch surfing via Homer and Betty. The stars aligned just
so that we rode with the Seattle Kidical Mass group from Fremont to the
ferry terminal this morning. They were headed to Bainbridge for family bik
Here's the halfway done build. I stripped it down for an overhaul. The BB
and headset were in great shape so they went right back in. I had to
straighten the rear der hanger and the chainrings were also a bit bent up.
New chain and brakepads along with my B17 and my drop bar cockpit are all
70 matches
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