Any "neophyte" should have their handiwork looked at by a capable wrench hand.
You don't want your wheelset to discombobulate at 45 mph on a steep downhill,
or when you hear that clacking noise think to yourself, "I wonder if I was
supposed to grease that before installing it?"
Our local bike c
Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from "Rivlike Bikes"to "2
shellac methods"? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the
president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my
doctor and start taking those pills he prescribed? A!
On 11 Jan, 08:04, James Warren wrote
I'm sure that was a mistake
On Jan 11, 3:57 am, fenderbender wrote:
> Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from "Rivlike Bikes"to "2
> shellac methods"? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the
> president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my
> doctor and start ta
John,
Welcome aboard and you have my admiration for diving into the bicycle
assembly business. It should certainly accomplish your goal of
knowing how everything on your bicycle goes together. Much easier to
fix something in the middle of no-where when you are the mechanic that
assembled it.
I
Well it's back to "Rivlike Bike" now but how on earth could this
happen?
On 11 Jan, 13:06, Esteban wrote:
> I'm sure that was a mistake
>
> On Jan 11, 3:57 am, fenderbender wrote:
>
>
>
> > Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from "Rivlike Bikes"to "2
> > shellac methods"? Are there net
Just for the record, I don't own the current model of Nitto rear rack
that Rivendell designate as "Big Back Rack". But I did recently buy a
similar rack witch I think is the older version with out the extra
truss support like this one:
http://home.earthlink.net/~dangoldenberg/images/Atlantisfall.j
I collect French parts but do not have any on my bikes currently.
Some day I might try and make a classic French rando with some. That
is a project far on the back burner though.
As the others have pointed out, old French parts even in good shape
can be fussy when paired with modern components.
The only bars I've broken has been crashes prior to this and neither
were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000
series alu too!
In RR39/Summer-03 issue Grant had a very interesting interview with
the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa:
"Q: For a 200lb (91
The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to that and
neither
were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000
series too!
In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very interesting interview with
the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa by Grant:
"Q: For a 2
The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to that and
neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or
7000 series too as most were on my mtb! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there
was a very interesting interview with the president and designer of
Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa
To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent
or deep mark. The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to
that and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably
were 6 or 7000 series too! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very
interesting interview
Were I to be contemplating riding brevets or multi-day tours, I'd
start by defining what range of gears would work for me, then choose
derailleurs to match. If the Simplexes work with the gearing you need
and you trust them in brevet conditions, then go with them. If not,
go modern.
Bill
John
Hey John,
Welcome to the list and kudos to building and maintaining your own
bike! I can't help you with the gear ranges appropriate to the
derailleurs you have, but I do agree with others here suggesting going
with modern Shimano stuff (Deore/LX/XT rear, Sora Front - for
example). For the kind
Hi Ron,
Can you give us a few measurements, to insure it will fit?
1) length of steerer tube
2) length of threaded portion of steering tube
3) length from the axle to the crown race seat
Thanks!
On Jan 10, 6:55 pm, RonLau wrote:
> For sale is a 60mm rake fork build by Roland Della Santa, great
On Jan 10, 2009, at 11:35 PM, John Ferguson wrote:
> I have a Simplex SLJ5500 rear derailleur and an SLJ front derailleur
> from my old bike. However, I can't figure out with a high degree of
> confidence what an appropriate range would be for the chainwheels and
> the cassette/freewheel. Unfort
For your wintertime enjoyment, some shots from yestoday's ride. About
halfway into the "Descending Cardiac" video is a group of supercars
that passed me on the way down:
Climbing Cardiac:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yEvn96Sr_w
Descending Cardiac:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nSXQoljYQ
Did you finally get some coffee?
- Original Message -
From: fenderbender
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 6:49 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?
To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent
or deep mark. The only bars I
Sorry, sorry, sorry. I never knew how the technology worked until now.
I always assumed that if you change the name of the subject line, then
a new thread automatically begins. But now I've learned that the thread
is still defined by the message to which you hit "reply". I always
thought I wa
In case there is anyone who would like to participate in the final day
of his ride.
www.bikingforobama.com/2009/01/11/calling-all-riders/
On Dec 24 2008, 1:40 pm, JoelMatthews wrote:
> Thanks for the link. Guy is truly inspired. Even the southern tier
> this time of the year can get dicey weat
On Jan 11, 2009, at 12:13 PM, James Warren wrote:
> Sorry, sorry, sorry. I never knew how the technology worked until now.
> I always assumed that if you change the name of the subject line, then
> a new thread automatically begins. But now I've learned that the
> thread
> is still defined by t
Thanks, guess I was running on fumes. But the google forum lack of
edit functions paired with a tired 'ol Win98 do ad to the fun. :)
On 11 Jan, 18:19, "David Faller" wrote:
> Did you finally get some coffee?
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: fenderbender
> To: RBW Owners Bunch
>
I have a gently used Silver Hupe for sale: $20 shipped in the CONUS.
Rubber coating has been worn off on the lower part in one small area,
but *not* where the Hupe contacts the frame. Chrome is perfect.
--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org
--~--~-~--~--
John:
Congrats on the new bike. Not familiar with the details of that model (I
have an Atlantis) but Rivs share a common design philosophy.
First, as much as you love your old French stuff, maybe it's time to retire
it & get new stuff for the new bike. Precision manufacturing has come a
long wa
Thanks for all the advice.
Let me be clear here: Using the Simplex derailleurs from my old bike
is not to save a few bucks on new derailleurs. It's because they
worked flawlessly for many years. I see no reason to change -- plus
they're a lot prettier than Shimano. All I'm trying to figure out is
Trust me, I'm definitely going to take it to a bike shop to check
after I put everything together! I'm going to look into taking a
course, but I usually take the try and fail approach first.
I'm considering just putting the Simplex on the shelf, and maybe using
it with a used frame in the future.
John:
I'm not familiar with your Huret parts but a lot of old stuff is a whole lot
better looking than modern day stuff. IMO, Shimano tends to a cold,
industrial look.
Assuming you're going to use the FD & RD, expect to do quite a bit of trial
& error to see what works for you. Most manufactu
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