Update for me as well. Called Riv and confirmed that it would not be uncommon
for a 62 Sam with a 48/34 big big to result in a new chain being a tad short. I
added a link or two and connected it all with two quick links. Guys at Riv said
they have done the same on their own bikes without issue.
update: Yesterday the chain broke where I had connected it; so, from now on
I will be using a quicklink to connect chains. Thanks you for this
thread... Ken P., Alexandria, Va.
On Tuesday, February 6, 2018 at 7:32:13 PM UTC-5, KenP wrote:
>
> I put 125 links on my Appaloosa 9 speed chain; put
I put 125 links on my Appaloosa 9 speed chain; put a 52 ring in the front
and 34 big ring on the back. Works, but it's tight if I run big/big.
Bike shop says if I put too many links, the derailleur will be too loose
and will scrape the chain. I used a chain tool, to piece together the
chai
Lot's of chains come with 114 links. KMC chains appear to all come in 116
link length. Do you happen to know how long your KMC chain is? Is is 57"
long or 58" long? Or shorter? Maybe your chain is accidentally short?
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 5:41:12 AM UTC
Hi Tim:
My Sam has a 43 big ring, 28 tooth rear cog and I've ended up with four or
five extra links when installing a chain. Like Jim, I've used two quick
links on a Clem and the chain was trouble free. Hope you enjoy your Sam.
Best,
Richard
On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 8:41:12 AM UTC-5, Ti
I have used two quick links that close to salvage a broken chain. Disn't
have any problems.
Jim (in COLD Madison WI)
On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 7:41:12 AM UTC-6, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating
> snag with a brand new chain. Usin
Not surprising, the 48 chainring, 34 rear cog, and Rivendell chainstay
length are all on the edge of normal these days. You have run into
tolerance stack - too many tolerances going one way and you end up out of
overall tolerance - in this case; standard chain length. I bought an extra
SS 9 spe
Thanks Patrick. Chain saw oil. I have some. When I do put something on this new
chain maybe I will try that first. And wipe it very well.
Only one ride on this KMC chain. It feels very nice. Shifts cleanly. I notice
no difference compared to the SRAM chains I've been using except this has that
Many thanks, Garth. I'll consider this purchase very carefully $10.16 per
chain -- not too shabby. I'm asking my brother if he wants to go halves.
Ryan Watson?
On Sun, Jun 29, 2014 at 1:50 PM, Garth wrote:
>
> Patrick, from what I have read about KMC chains online, in reviews and
> such, is t
Patrick, from what I have read about KMC chains online, in reviews and
such, is that they work as well and better than Sram chains. I too have
used nothing but Sram and before that Sedis, but KMC these days is a very
good if not better option.
Here's the links for the bulk chains, it appea
A recent thread on this list discussed the virtues of chain saw oil; one
virtue being the low cost. The thread discussed the dirtiness of chains so
lubed, with someone commenting that you can prevent the adherence of grit
if you wipe the chain very thoroughly after careful application.
I plan to l
These are 9 speed chains? If so, does anyone know if these KMC chains shift
and track as well as SRAM chains? I use the relatively cheap ~$20 SRAM 9 sp
model.
It has been a long time, but I seem to remember that KMC chains I used for
fixed were more noisy than SRAMs., but then these were probably
Thanks Ted. Now I'm going to open the can of worms! What do all of you out
there consider to be "good chain lubes"? I have used White Lightning
(didn't like it), Tri-Flow (like it, have some, is this a good one?), T9
(have some, not my favorite, seems to attract dirt more than the others)
-Bill
Bill,
The main problem people have with their chains is that they wear, and if
you use them when too worn they ruin your chainrings and cogs. Sounds like
you have had this problem. The chain doesn't need to be clean so much as it
needs to be lubricated. It is also better if you don't wash grit
Garth: I really over paid at $14.95 a chain! I got three at that price. Plan to
change them out every 1000 miles. Now that I have the super-nice Rene Herse
crankset and also very nice SRAM 9-speed cassette. Not sure which model but it
has a solid red sleeve for the six largest cogs. Really quiet
Yeah . . . . what's been said. . . just wipe it down after each ride.
I'm at a point where I don't want to do chain maintenance at all, other
than replace them or wipe them . It just seems, well, archaic. We're in
the year 2014 and we're still resorting to soaking chains in toxic shmoxic
I dampen (not soak) a rag with preferred solvent and wipe the factory goop
off the exterior of the chain first.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an emai
No idea. I always take off the factory lube and start fresh with my fancy
schmancy polymer lube.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Saturday, June 28, 2014 7:57:37 AM UTC-6, William R. wrote:
>
> Just installed a new chain (kmc 9 speed) on my Soma Grand Randonneur (Riv
> content: noodles, nitto stem, bro
...and I agree with you agreeing with me...
On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:54:38 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 13:26 -0700, William wrote:
> >
> > I agree 70% of the time in the large chainring (mine's a 44) is not
> > controversial. But I use my 44x11 less than 1% of
On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 13:26 -0700, William wrote:
>
> I agree 70% of the time in the large chainring (mine's a 44) is not
> controversial. But I use my 44x11 less than 1% of the time. If I
> used my 44x11 for 2700 miles my knees would be gone, and that 11T cog
> would be shot.
And I agree wit
"And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain
ring. That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the
time."
I must've misread it then. I see that telling me smallest cog on the
cassette in the largest chain ringprobably 70% of the time.
I agree 70% of the
Ah ha! You ride in this smallest cog most of the time! Take another look
but the back side of the teeth on that cog are most likely cupped
(increasing slope of the tooth until it becomes an overhang near the top).
This is good news as buying a new final cog is easy and much cheaper than a
whole
On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 12:33 -0700, William wrote:
> I mean this in the nicest possible way, but unless I'm
> misunderstanding something terribly, there's no way you should be
> spending 70% of your time riding in your highest gear. It makes my
> knees hurt just thinking about it.
He said 70% of
I mean this in the nicest possible way, but unless I'm misunderstanding
something terribly, there's no way you should be spending 70% of your time
riding in your highest gear. It makes my knees hurt just thinking about
it. You should be trying to ride in approximately the 90-100RPM range.
"S
I tried looking at the cog but I can't tell much. I'm not very
mechanical. I'll look at the chainring too. It wasn't knocked out of
adjustment because I watched him install it. I checked the master
link. It looks ok. It may be the derailleur but I have friction
shifters so I wouldn't think it
I needed a small chainring when I did my winter overhaul on the Hilsen.
New chain and the hooky teeth wanted to pull it up like precursor to
chainsuck. They were pretty sharkfin-ish.
On Monday, April 16, 2012 11:48:18 AM UTC-7, Lynne Fitz wrote:
>
> Check your chainrings. That was the probl
Check your chainrings. That was the problem I had, once. Replaced
the chain. Replaced the cassette. Finally took it into the shop.
Head mechanic: "did no one look at your chainrings?"
Bleriot's chainrings (13500+ mi) are starting to look suspect, but
nothing is skipping... yet.
Lynne
On Apr
If it is the smallest cog only, then the stiff link hypothesis has a point in
its favor, as the stiff link will be most obvious on the smallest cog, which
has the tightest curvature.
You can generally buy a small cog for your cassette if it turns out to be worn.
Seems unlikely, because most peo
Only skipping in smallest cog makes me think it is a deraileur adjustment,
maybe they knocked it out of whack a bit on the install. Did you try
adjusting the tension back there? I dont know your level of expertise but
if you havent done this kind of thing before just remember to go slow and
make s
More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from
Rivendell. I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about
keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain. The new
chain does have a master link. If the cassette is worn, do I replace
the whole thing? I've only noti
.
email: j...@synapticcycles.com
website: www.synapticcycles.com
Twitter: @synapticcycles
phone: 949-374-6079
> Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 19:12:06 -0700
> Subject: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping
> From: tki...@comcast.net
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
>
> I agree. Both of those ans
I agree. Both of those answers are probably the two most likely
suspects. Your old chain and your cassette wore together, and when you
put the new chain on, it revealed the wear in the cassette that was
hidden before.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R
Maybe a stiff link in the new chain?
On Apr 15, 2012 8:39 PM, "newenglandbike" wrote:
> Hi Pam,
>
> I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced
> those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll know if
> the teeth end in sharp points like a shark
Hi Pam,
I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced
those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll know if
the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin.
Matt
On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote:
>
> I just got a new
34 matches
Mail list logo
