I used a bb lockring on the Suzue hub freewheel threading to make it more
difficult for a fixed sprocket to back itself off. Worked fine.
But, I was still using the rim brakes rather than engaging in high-pressure
backpedaling to stop.
Since switched to a Phil which is fixed/free and now us
Thanks for the tip guys. After reading this I today set my 'beam up with spare
parts. I now have a 42x22 fixed/free flip flop.
Jason Leach
SF, CA
> On Oct 26, 2014, at 7:19 PM, Kainalu wrote:
>
> Suzue! And I said Suzie, don't even know what I'm rolling... Thanks for the
> great chain tric
Suzue! And I said Suzie, don't even know what I'm rolling... Thanks for the
great chain tricks and fixed opportunity right in front of my nose.
Suzie being the name of my first pup
-Kai
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I've always been lucky with chainlines. "Oh, cool, that worked." Or else I just
don't get into it unles I have a problem, and haven't had any problems. I'm
still on the QB's original BB.
I've also happily run fixed for years and years without lockrings, but I may
have been lucky there, too. I u
Behalf Of David Banzer
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 11:16 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: chain line and the Quickbeam
You can use the rotafix method to install and remove fixed cogs without the
need for a chainwhip. It uses the wheel as leverage which gets far more
You can use the rotafix method to install and remove fixed cogs without the
need for a chainwhip. It uses the wheel as leverage which gets far more
torque than a chainwhip. I've used this method to setup fixed gears for
myself on a regular freewheel threading and have never had a cog come
loose
That makes sense, you could use another cog on there as a lockring of
sorts, and if you carried a chainwhip you could swap your fixed set. Or I
suppose you could use your crank and chain as a chainwhip just as easily by
using a stick to brake the crank. There must be a thread around here
somewh
It's free/free, and I have a 22t free on the flip side. I was told I could
put on a fixed gear and it would work fine so long as I didn't do
aggressive backpedaling to brake (since I have brakes) -- so that's my plan
for "someday" when I try it out. But I definitely like having the freewheel
fo
Well worth the effort then, and you're never at a loss for torque. The Phil hub
is freewheel/fixed? Or freewheel/freewheel? I was thinking fixed would be fun
in the snow and ice but the suzie's lacking the fixed locking side. Might have
to find a relatively cheap fixie rear wheel to try it out,
Rear hub is Phil, allen lugs.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Saturday, October 25, 2014 6:11:28 PM UTC-6, Kainalu wrote:
>
> Thanks Patrick,
> I knew you'd have the answer, and with wild abandon. And I'm glad we're
> gearing buddies, mountain gearing's what I'm after. If I can coax it out of
> the d
Thanks Patrick,
I knew you'd have the answer, and with wild abandon. And I'm glad we're gearing
buddies, mountain gearing's what I'm after. If I can coax it out of the dropout
I might stick something racier on the other side for downhillin. You said
something about Allen wrench gear shifts befo
Mine is a 113, as it came standard from Rivendell, and I have the same
gearing set-up you describe. My chainlink is smooth in both high and low
gears. I don't cross chain, so can't speak to that, but expect it would
work since the others do.
With abandon,
Patrick
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