FWIW: I've fretted about brakes for over 40 years, and I've used just about
every kind there is, and my conclusion is that the best brakes bar none
that I ever used -- equal to Vs and mech disks in power, better than single
pivots in modulation -- were the Riv set up IRD wide profile cantils on the
Jan:
After all the fiddling I talked about above on my wife's bike, I
converted my Atlantis to V-brakes & the long cable pull Tektro
levers. The previous brakes were Tekro 720 with Tekro's standard pull
levers. The braking effort is considerably less with the V-brakes,
and my arms don't wear out
"Better" stopping power might depend on the observer. I find that Vs do
stop better, maybe too better. If you only have one bike however, or you
have the same type of actuation on all you bikes, ie...long pull or short
pull then you'd probably get used to the extra power. I personally find V
bra
Go with the V-brakes b/c they can be less of an ass pain to setup.
The tektro 520 levers also feel pretty good in my hands. Having said that -
so do the shimano levers.
However, if you really want cantis, spring for the paul cantis - they are
just a nicer brake and less fidgety to setup than the
I’m planning my new country bike with drop bars and bar end shifters and
I’m considering which brakes I should choose.
The alternatives I’m thinking at the moment are:
- Tektro CR720 cantilevers & Shimano BL-R400 levers
- Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes & Tektro RL 520 levers
>From reading this thre
There seems to be a strong endorsement for dedicated brake levers
designed for the longer cable pull. When I first got this bright
idea, Riv had the levers to go with the brakes. Time I quit mulling &
got to ordering, the levers were gone but the Travel Agents were still
there. No worries, think
Travel Agents were OEM on our tandem to convert the 105 STI lever pull
to operate the Linear pull brakes. I found them only just more
tolerable than the STI levers, especially the day the left one failed,
I scrapped the STI levers and the Travel Agents, switching to bar-end
shifters and Dia Compe 2
Jeremy:
Thanks for the explanation. I've read Sheldon's article & have the BQ
brake issue, but your explanation is a bit more in layman's terms.
Good stuff.
Jim:
My first cut is also to just set the pads flat to the rim & leave 'em
if nothing makes noise. Makes sense to have the maximum area a
Jim, you point to the problem I have had with Shimano levers, since my
experience is limited to Ultegra levers with Shimano and DiCompe cantis.
They just required so much pull that the pads had to be set all but
touching the rims, which was, of course, impossible to keep adjusted.
The first ti
One common cause of mushiness is excessive toe-in of the pads. I generally
start with the pads flat against the rim, and toe-in only if there's shuddering
or squealing.
I've only dealt with travel agents on tandems, where they are a stock item when
STI and v-brakes are the spec. Interestingly,
Actually, I've found that maximizing braking power with cantilevers or v
brakes often results in levers that feel "mushy" compared to say, caliper
brakes. In fact, what you are doing is maximizing the mechanical advantage
of the system; if the levers are moving a relatively large amount (say,
Thanks for all the good comments, especially the Tektro pn for the V-
brake specific lever. Funny that with all the V-brakes out there,
there aren't more road levers for them. The more I look at these &
how they work, ease of set-up (Travel Agent issues aside) and staying
out of the way of baggag
Hi James,
Do you have any current source for the Dia Compe 986 brakes? I need them
to remain period correct on my Bridgestone MB-1.
Thanks
John
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 9:02 AM, James Warren wrote:
>
> Dia Compe 986's and Shimano Tiagra levers work very well on my bike.
>
> Shimano Tiagra lev
Doug, While my opinion is that the right cantilever brakes ( Avid or Paul )
stop just as well I would just caution that the Travel Agents have a
reputation for cable failure becasue of the tighter bend. Since it's your
wifes bike and she is a lighter weight person and probably won't be
carrying
I'm really enjoying the braking with my cheap Shimano medium-profile
cantis, arms out as wide as possible (posts still adequately captured by
the brake bolt), straddle wire as low as possible... the feel is soft but
the brakes are quick to stop.
Another good analysis of cantilever brake geometry,
+1 on travel agents feel funny. Have been the full circle on my Sam: V-
brakes with travel agents, Tektro CR720 cantis, back to V-brakes with
Tektro RL520 levers. Was painful to cut off my less than 2 yr. old
harlequin wrap, but am glad I did.
David
On Jan 16, 2:19 am, "fugd...@gmail.com" wrote:
Even the cheapie Tektro v-brakes, which are under $30 for a bike's worth, are
amazingly powerful and all but foolproof to set up.
I stopped using cantilevers on my own bikes several years ago. Canti fans often
claim that cantilevers are a simple matter of set-up, that theoretically they
should
Dia Compe 986's and Shimano Tiagra levers work very well on my bike.
Shimano Tiagra levers are reported to work well with cantis in general.
On Jan 17, 2012, at 6:45 AM, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> On Tue, 2012-01-17 at 05:49 -0800, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>> I have never been able to get Shimano
On Tue, 2012-01-17 at 05:49 -0800, Michael Hechmer wrote:
> I have never been able to get Shimano levers to work well with cantis.
Not my experience at all. I have Shimano aero levers on bikes with
Shimano Deore XT II and Avid Shorty 4 cantis, and they work as well as
those same levers on bikes w
I have never been able to get Shimano levers to work well with cantis.
Cane Creek / Tektro levers work very well with both my Neo Retros and
Racers. I have arthritis so no longer have the grip I did 20 years ago, so
am probably a good test subject for this discussion.
Personally a travel agen
The old Shimano wide profile cantis on the trike, and the modern wide IRCs
(I think that's the brand) on the Sam Hill are both very powerful and set
up with little hassle. I didn't even bother putting salmon pads on the
Shimanos. I could never get low profiles to work well with drop bar levers.
The
+1.
For those inclined to learn about the hows and whys, and fiddle about
with different types of (virtual) cantilever brakes, there's always:
http://www.circleacycles.com/cantilevers/
On Jan 15, 3:06 pm, "Scott G." wrote:
> There are cantilevers, then there are cantilevers, ye olde high profi
Travel Agents feel funny and the cable is much more susceptible to
breaking.V-brakes are better in the wet.
On Jan 15, 9:21 pm, dougP wrote:
> Jim:
>
> I'll keep that in mind. The bike is my wife's Atlantis & has the
> Shimano levers Riv uses. I hate to start tearing into the handlebar
> set up
Jim:
I'll keep that in mind. The bike is my wife's Atlantis & has the
Shimano levers Riv uses. I hate to start tearing into the handlebar
set up (bar end shifters, etc) & I have the brakes & Travel Agents so
I'll just install them & see how that works. I read the Travel Agent
instructions & hav
If the bike in question is equipped with STI levers, then the travel agent is
the way to go. Otherwise, the Tektro RL520 levers are a cheaper, better way to
go.
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Thanks Jim, that's what I needed to know. Now I've got job security
at least thru tomorrow. The Travel Agent looks to be a well thought
out device.
dougP
On Jan 15, 1:45 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
> +1 on v-brakes being easier to pull. We almost always suggest an upgrade to
> v-b
There are cantilevers, then there are cantilevers, ye olde high profile
Mafac/Paul Neo retro need strong hands, low profile like Avid Shorty 6
or Paul Touring setup with the shortest practical straddle cable will
equal or exceed V brakes.
Cyclocross magazine did the test, hanging a fixed weight
+1 on v-brakes being easier to pull. We almost always suggest an upgrade to
v-brakes on bikes that come stock with cantilevers, especially when the rider
has less than a Kung-Fu grip. Lots of women have trouble with cantilevers and
drop bar type levers, but even strong manly men like me benefit
V-brakes are easier to pull.
Ryan
On Jan 15, 1:01 pm, dougP wrote:
> Does anyone know if the effort required is the same for V-brakes and
> cantis? Or is one easier to pull than the other? The rider in
> question has small hands and cannot grip very hard. The bike is an
> Atlantis, currently
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