Jeremy:

Thanks for the explanation.  I've read Sheldon's article & have the BQ
brake issue, but your explanation is a bit more in layman's terms.
Good stuff.

Jim:

My first cut is also to just set the pads flat to the rim & leave 'em
if nothing makes noise.  Makes sense to have the maximum area at
work.  So I did set these up without toe-in; nice & quiet.  This set
came with some cool spherical washers that make pad angle adjustment a
non-event.

Checked everything out & all seems to be installed properly.  Maybe
it's just "travel agents feel funny".  My wife says "...the bike stops
OK; don't you have another project?" so maybe I'm over-thinking
this.

dougP

On Jan 18, 4:46 am, Michael Hechmer <mhech...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Jim, you point to the problem I have had with Shimano levers, since my
> experience is limited to Ultegra levers with Shimano and DiCompe cantis.
>  They just required so much pull that the pads had to be set all but
> touching the rims, which was, of course, impossible to keep adjusted.
>
> The first time I set up my Neo Retros, I spent a lot of time fussing with
> it.  Now that I understand how it's done I can do it in a couple of
> minutes. Neither the Shimano BR550(??) or classic DiCompe offered very much
> power but The Paul's can pull my rear wheel off the ground if I slam on
> them, so I don't think I would want anything more powerful.  They have
> saved my life in a right hook situation, so I'm naturally biased.
>
> The one thing I do not like about cantis is how dirty they get.  My Ram has
> Racer Ms and the tandems Racers, and because these brakes sit above the
> fender they stay a whole lot cleaner.  I would think that V brakes would
> also stay cleaner.  I live 2 miles down a dirt road, in a town where all
> the town roads are dirt, so it may be a bigger deal for me than for most
> riders, but if you're riding fat tire you are probably riding off the
> pavement a good bit, so maybe not.
>
> michael
> Westford, Vt

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