I'm the kind of idiot who can over tighten a quill's stem bolt so much that
I broke it. I was using a new Park torque wrench which failed to stop at
the specified limit. I drove my Hunqapillar over to Riv HQ and asked Mark
to look over my head tube to see if I had caused any damage to my frame.
On the Riv site, I found they display the *Nitto *torque recommendations
here:
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/nitto-torque-specs
Unfortunately their catalog doesn't have torque spec's:
http://nitto-tokyo.sakura.ne.jp/Catalog.pdf
Obviously any fastener or component manufacturer is gonna have their
Hi group,
12 to 15 ft-lbs on a lubricated quill bolt is entirely unnecessary in my
(limited) experience. I stop well below that (~8 ft-lbs) and find the
connection to be plenty snug. I tighten until the wedge is safely seated
against the steerer tube, testing with a lateral twist as I go and
I think with the advent of carbon fiber/resin handlebars, seatposts AND
(whoa) steerer tubes the critical technical issue of torque IS required
reading. As Grant so astutely points out, that plastic material is not as
forgiving as metal. That being said, IMHO it is always a good idea to
refer
Anyways since that incident where the stem slid in the steerer (I think the
mechanic tended to booze a lot and be high on the job) I just always cranked it
real good to ensure it wouldn't slip again. But I wondered if maybe I was
overdoing it and bulging the steerer. Anyways seems fine but wonde
Well I had a bike shop build up a bike and one day the quill stem slipped and
handlebars rotated and I did nearly crash so yes you might say your life could
depend on it. I don't think it would be rocket science but if you're the type
of person who even would read or be aware of lists like this
The fact that every mfr. offers different "advice" on torque values for a
given part, pretty much says it all .
If you think a number on a torque meter is going to guarantee to anything,
think again . Every torque wrench varies from another. So take that into
account along with no agreed upo
Al,
If you have a Riv bike, and kept the owner's manual that came with it,
there should be a torque spec sheet for various bike fasteners in there.
I'm not home at the moment, but can check when I get there if you still
need the info.
Tom
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Pictures, please. I would like to see how the grilver looks with cooper
tape.
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I should have thought of that! Thanks tc
On Monday, December 18, 2017 at 10:01:34 AM UTC-5, tc wrote:
>
> Doug, you should have gotten a booklet from Riv with basic maintenance,
> etc.. In the copy I got with my Sam (and my wife's for that matter), there
> was a recommended torque chart for the
Doug, you should have gotten a booklet from Riv with basic maintenance,
etc.. In the copy I got with my Sam (and my wife's for that matter), there
was a recommended torque chart for the most common fasteners used on the
bike.
On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 9:34:40 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>
And don't assume that the bar you have is the diameter it's listed as in
print. Actually look at it and read the diameter of that stamped into the bar
and then measure it with a caliper. Once I received a 25.4 mustache bar from
Rivendell. Normally that old model was 26.0. It was stamped 25.4.
Make sure the clamp diameter matches your bar diameter.
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To pos
Thanks Joe and Bill.
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Here is a link to a webpage on Rivendell Bicycle Works' website which lists
the recommended torque specifications from Nitto:
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/nitto-torque-specs
The stem clamp bolt is an M8, I'm 99% sure. That means 13 N-m
On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 6:34:40 PM UTC-8, Dou
John: Isn't riding fixed fun? Over the years (I got my first fixie in 1996
or so) I have either planned or actually built and ridden bicycles with
freewheels and even with derailleur systems, but I always come back to
fixed systems, even in preference to single speed coasters. I do like
multiple ge
Patrick, if you have the time and desire, could you give us some close up shots
of your bike? I love that blue color. What is it called? Thanks for your
consideration.
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Hello Patrick,
I think you've hit the hail on the head when you say you need to pace
yourself accurately when fixed gear riding. I try to do the same when I'm
on my QB, trying to balance pushing it up hills in my cruising gear or
using the low gear so that I feel I've gotten a good work out in,
I would love to know the correct torque specs on brake cable anchor
bolts. I seem to always gall them out. I just don't want that cable
to break loose!
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The question still remains.
On May 22, 6:16 pm, Ray Shine wrote:
> Thanks, everyone who responded. I have never been overly concerned about the
> torque on the stem before, but my last crash sent my bars and stem all
> wracked. I got to thinking more about it as I have the bike on the stand an
When lifting weights seriously back in my twenties I snapped a few
bolts working on my bikes then. These days I don't have that problem
and can tell when a certain amount of resistance is met with a bolt or
nut. Snug is the word I think of when wrenching.if the part still
moves, snug it up a bi
I have found that as I have aged I am more likely to under tighten
allen bolts when using hand held keys. I've gone to a torque wrench
just to give myself the extra leverage, although I suppose 3/8 ratchet
driver would also provide that.
michael
On May 22, 12:14 pm, Eric Norris wrote:
> Accordi
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