Hah! The Woodchipper is mounted on the Fargo bike:
http://www.salsacycles.com/amigos/2009/10/interbike-follow-up-new-woodchipper-bar.html
Look like the flare starts at the bottom of the drop as opposed to the
Midge/Garys. I like that more as I can use the brake levers position more,
which doesn'
Cool, thanks Todd! They're really hard to find... my LBS guy just stared at
me blankly when I asked about availability...
On Wed, Oct 21, 2009 at 3:30 AM, ToddBS wrote:
>
> On Oct 20, 8:33 pm, cyclotourist wrote:
> > I already have some Gary bars (Origin 8) so I'll use 'em. Glad Salsa is
> >
Yes, that is an advantage of threaded and quill stems. But I'm one of
the few that seems to adjust stem/handlebar height as the mood/whim
hits.
It can be done with a threadless setup. Two options, with spacer(s)
above the stem (inelegant looking but structurally strong), or with a
steerer exten
Yes, now we're on the same page. Of course after you cut that steerer
the threadless approach doesn't give you much upwards adjustment.
That's where I feel the threaded approach wins out.
On Oct 21, 10:01 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
> "I'm not sure I get this. You can uses spacers w
"I'm not sure I get this. You can uses spacers with a threaded headset
too. "
Threaded steerers tend to be sized to the frame - i.e. the steerer is
roughly 4-7 cm longer than the headtube to take up the stack height of
the headset (30-50 mm) and maybe a few 5 mm spacers and/or a cable
hanger, lea
> Am I missing any other options (low cost, steel, 29ers
> that take cantis)?
You might have a hard time finding one, but the 1990 Fisher Sphinx
fits your description. It's been my main bike for the last 18 years,
and has served well from single track to road club rides to centuries
to loaded tou
I'm not sure I get this. You can uses spacers with a threaded headset
too.
On Oct 20, 11:23 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
> Actually what I was trying to say was that the frame size does NOT
> affect the handlebar height, provided you start with an uncut steerer
> and can tolerate a st
On Oct 20, 8:33 pm, cyclotourist wrote:
> I already have some Gary bars (Origin 8) so I'll use 'em. Glad Salsa is
> selling some drops. Wish OnOne weren't so difficult to get hold of in the
> States...
I bought my Midge bars from these folks:
http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-4108-on-one-midg
I already have some Gary bars (Origin 8) so I'll use 'em. Glad Salsa is
selling some drops. Wish OnOne weren't so difficult to get hold of in the
States...
On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 2:55 PM, Mike wrote:
>
> Hey David, be sure to check out the MTBR Surly forum. There's tons of
> info there and I'
Bike in the top pic is awesome, just what I'm thinking of!
On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 9:13 AM, james black wrote:
>
> On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 07:26, cyclotourist
> wrote:
> > So you're thinking 20 is better? That's why I asked the Bicycle Experts
> > Inc. Does it make a difference that I'm p
I just got home, and had an email from the good people at Surley that
suggested the 18" w/ Midge bars, 20" with regular bars. I'll definitely be
using Midge/other drops, so will report back to the group!
THANKS
On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 5:25 PM, ToddBS wrote:
>
> Have you taken a look at this bi
A, thanks for the clarification, I get it now. Spacers don't bug me too
much
On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 8:23 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
thill@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Actually what I was trying to say was that the frame size does NOT
> affect the handlebar height, provided you star
Ahh, never mind on the Vassago. I see that it only has V-brake mounts
and not canti studs.
On Oct 20, 8:25 pm, ToddBS wrote:
> Have you taken a look at this bike?
>
> http://vassagocycles.com/fisty.html
>
> It seems to fit what you are looking for. I'm not trying to talk you
> out of the KM th
Have you taken a look at this bike?
http://vassagocycles.com/fisty.html
It seems to fit what you are looking for. I'm not trying to talk you
out of the KM though. I do love the KM quite a bit. If you do plan
on running Midge bars, I wouldn't go over the 20" frame. Maybe even
look at the 18".
Hey David, be sure to check out the MTBR Surly forum. There's tons of
info there and I've seen pictures of KMs with drop bars.
Are you aware of these (scroll to the bottom and you'll see what I'm
talking about)?
http://salsacycles.com/handlebars_mtn.html
A drop bar KM will be killer and I bet y
On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 07:26, cyclotourist wrote:
> So you're thinking 20 is better? That's why I asked the Bicycle Experts
> Inc. Does it make a difference that I'm planning on using Midge/Gary
> bars?
I would suggest the 20" for you. I used to have a 20" SKM with dirt
drop bars, for ref
Actually what I was trying to say was that the frame size does NOT
affect the handlebar height, provided you start with an uncut steerer
and can tolerate a stack of headset spacers. This is a key difference
between threadless and threaded, and one that is often misunderstood.
On Oct 20, 9:35 am,
On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 7:31 AM, Chuck wrote:
>
> On Oct 19, 11:29 pm, cyclotourist wrote:
> > Hey Bicycle experts, just for kicks, if I ride a 62cm framed Rivendell
> > designed bike, what would be the proper sized Karate Monkey for me, an 18
> or
> > a 20"?
> >
> > The KMs seem to be the only
On Oct 19, 11:29 pm, cyclotourist wrote:
> Hey Bicycle experts, just for kicks, if I ride a 62cm framed Rivendell
> designed bike, what would be the proper sized Karate Monkey for me, an 18 or
> a 20"?
>
> The KMs seem to be the only production 29er frames out there with canti
> bosses. Gunnar R
The 29er Bombadil is just too big for me and I don't want to invest in
another wheelset for the 56cm. I'll probably pick up a used one someday,
but until then, I have a really nice Phil/Bontrager 29er wheelset waiting
for a frame!
On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 6:51 AM, Mike wrote:
>
> Dude, go with
So you're thinking 20 is better? That's why I asked the Bicycle Experts
Inc. Does it make a difference that I'm planning on using Midge/Gary
bars?
I looked at Voodoo but their canti attachments are an ugly afterthough on
the frame, plus it has too much slope on it's top tube. Looks more lik
Dude, go with the 20". I guess you're not getting a Bombadil?
On Oct 20, 3:47 am, Eric Daume wrote:
> Don't forget that Surlys run big--they measure to the top of the top tube,
> not the top of the seat tube as most others do. I think a 20" KM would be
> right. 22" is huge.
>
> Soma and Voodoo
Don't forget that Surlys run big--they measure to the top of the top tube,
not the top of the seat tube as most others do. I think a 20" KM would be
right. 22" is huge.
Soma and Voodoo also make canti 29ers. Gunnar will add canti studs for
$75--I bought a used Rockhound that has them.
Eric
Dublin
Interesting, I didn't even consider the 22".
I gave up worrying about my crotch long ago. I found it takes admirable
care of itself just fine, thank you.
Much to ponder this evening, much to ponder...
THANKS
On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 10:11 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
thill@gmail.com>
I'd suggest 20" if you're a crotch-worrier, or 22" if you're not. I
would ride an 18" myself, and you're about a foot taller than me.
Since all of the sizes have the same steerer length, the bigger sizes
will let you get the bar higher without so many unsightly spacers, but
the bar/saddle/pedal r
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