I have a bottle of chain saw bar and chain oil on the way. I presume I
reuse an empty 2 or 4 oz bottle for application? Or what do you chainsaw
guys do? Swig it and spit out a drop per ling from between your bearded
teeth? Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
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The best Lube to me is none of them !
For me, The best system would be no lube required, no cleaning required.
Never sqeeks, never rusts, never wears out . *The forever chain* !
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To
"I hear the lube you should use depends on where you live."
This is absolutely true. I myself would never use paraffin (or White
Lightning and such types, for that matter) in a rainy climate.
Second received axiom: Wax-type lubes are nothing like waxing with
paraffin. Amen. Mediate on this axiom
Does anyone use molybdenum disulfide for lubrication?
Jason Cloutier
Pawtucket, RI
On Monday, April 14, 2014 8:57:51 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> So the stuff I’ve been using lasts a few hours when it’s any sort of wet
> out and good luck lubing when it’s all wet and grime sticking to gri
I used ProLink this winter because I found a bottle of it in a toolbox and
figured I wouldn't get weepy about using it frequently and copiously over
what became an epic slop season on my commuter. All other reports aside, my
chain has lasted the whole season, dimensionally intact, using this lub
A Belt Drive bike surely sounds wonderful ! Less maintenance = Bliss !
My only possible bugaboo is the shifters , that you have to use specific
one for each internal hub and they're usually grip shifts, which I have no
desire to use . Alba bars with thumbies and bar end brake levers are
Or even better - belt drive SS.
On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 12:51:01 PM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:
>
> Belt drive/Roholoff comes to mind as a possibility down the road, no
> grease, no oiling. Expensive upfront costs but seems like an awesome setup
> for worry free riding.
> On Apr 14, 2014 8:27 PM,
Belt drive/Roholoff comes to mind as a possibility down the road, no
grease, no oiling. Expensive upfront costs but seems like an awesome setup
for worry free riding.
On Apr 14, 2014 8:27 PM, "Deacon Patrick" wrote:
> I'm intrigued by Dumonde's Original and may try it first. It's the same
> conce
I just called and asked for a sample of Dumonde's Original and they are
sending me one, so I'll report back how it goes. I plan on using it on the
new cassette/chain at the end of the month.
With abandon,
Patrick
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>
> Chain-L No.5 is a petroleum based lube. It smells kind of like motor oil
> to me. Its not overpowering. You can just smell it while standing near the
> bike while in the garage. Not while riding, of course.
>
> Chanel No.5, on the other hand can probably be scent-sampled at any local
> d
I'm pretty intrigued by chain lube with a distinctive smell as it's calling
card. I generally smell all the motor oils that I put in the household
cars and I can tell various motor oils by their smell. I think Mobil 1
smells the best of all oils I have used, with Mobil Super 5000 a close 2nd.
No
For winter/wet weather riding, I mix automatic transmission fluid and 10w30
in an old Tupperware container and immerse the chain for a minute or so and
agitate. I then hang the chain over the container and let it drain
completely back into the container and wipe off any excess. Sure it gets
dir
I'm intrigued by Dumonde's Original and may try it first. It's the same
concept as wax, but with a self-lubricating polymer as its base.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EO19MY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=LU7NJJJ1Q6U&coliid=I18KBXXNXGTA2F&psc=1
With abandon,
Patrick
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You receive
I don't/do follow you here, Garth because there are too few/many mixed
messages. Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Monday, April 14, 2014 5:54:16 PM UTC-6, Garth wrote:
>
>
> I have some Chain-L to try, but man, the smell to me is anything but foul.
> I'm not putting it on in my attached garage !
I have some Chain-L to try, but man, the smell to me is anything but foul.
I'm not putting it on in my attached garage ! With a lingering odor like
that, and it's mystery ingredients too, I'm sure it's no more/less "toxic"
than others, as "toxic" is relative to the I of the beholder anyways !
I went back and looked at the various lubes I've tried and they are all
variations on the "dry wax." So that path has been tried. The Chain-L looks
well worth trying. So I will try the wet lube next and see how it goes.
Given that Boeshield and White Lightening and the rest last me at most 10
h
>
> Chain-L is the longest lasting, and coolest smelling lube I have ever used.
>
You can smell it when you enter the garage for the next week after
installing it on the chain.
Smells like engine oil.
I think I could could go for 1k at least without a relube if I remember
right from my use. Ra
I use clean ride, and while I don't like working with something so toxic it
is the lowest maintenance lube I have found in the years of dirt riding.
On Apr 14, 2014 6:09 PM, "Garth" wrote:
>
> Just thinkin' . . . . .
>
> I've used two wax based lubes, because cleaning chains is strongly not my
Just thinkin' . . . . .
I've used two wax based lubes, because cleaning chains is strongly not my
preference :)
Squirt, which is not widely available, is by far the longest lasting. It
has no petroleum in it, it's water based and White . It does alight in the
rain as long as it's been appl
That first "beeswax" ought to be "paraffin" of course.
On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 10:16 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Yes, beeswax does penetrate (it's thinner than bees wax when liquid) but
> apparently it doesn't keep water out or at any rate, doesn't keep the chain
> lubed when water gets in.
>
I can't answer that. I just know that even a little wet makes the chain
noisy; I also know that the general scuttlebutt (waxing has been around for
decades) is that paraffin is not a good lube for wet conditions. I haven't
heard of anyone recommend bees wax except Grant, and I haven't heard
anyone,
I should add, that the challenge I have in the riding I do is it's both
"wet" and "dry" almost at the same time on many, many days. Between 20
minute downpours than mudify everything to creek crossings, things rapidly
go from wet to dry to wet to dry. Dry dust and grit sticks to the "wet"
lubes
I'm thick-headed with wool for brains, so please help me understand why wax
works in dry dusty conditions by not wet. That makes no sense to me.
Adding vasaline to beeswax might make sense. Would adding an oil of some
kind make equal sense?
Patrick, doesn't beeswax penetrate the chain when you
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