You didn't notice that problem w/ RPs though?
I have some GBs coming... so guess I was tempted enough!!!
On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 10:48 PM, Aaron Thomas wrote:
>
> I have never tried taking them off-road. The casing seems very
> durable. But the tread did get a couple of cuts after not many miles
The brake levers have been claimed. I wish I had 5 more pair to give
away.
I am happy that they are going to get put to use after years and years
of sitting.
Cheers!
cm
On May 13, 3:05 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Chris: I don't *need* them, but they would be good backup for my m-barr'd
> grocery
I have never tried taking them off-road. The casing seems very
durable. But the tread did get a couple of cuts after not many miles
of pavement riding, and that might be a cause for concern. They could
probably handle some dirt paths, but probably no Rough Riders type
stuff.
On May 13, 10:02 pm,
Interesting... do you think the "Challenge" can hold up to trail use?
On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:24 PM, Aaron Thomas wrote:
>
> Gino scared me away from the GB also. Instead, I gave the Challenge
> Parigi-Roubaix a try and liked them a lot.
>
> They have slightly more volume than the RT and RP, an
Gino scared me away from the GB also. Instead, I gave the Challenge
Parigi-Roubaix a try and liked them a lot.
They have slightly more volume than the RT and RP, and so far have
been puncture free. They ride a lot like the RP (i.e. no RT thud),
although I've found their grip to be a little unsure
I don't recall reading about this w/ anyone else, so nice to see it's not
just me (and my hot shed).
Interesting that the JBs and RPs don't do this... I wonder about the Maxy
Fasty are like.
I really want to put some JBs on there, but clearance is REALLY tight for
that under the rear brake arch.
Yup. Same thing happened to my Ruffy Tuffies. I sent photos to RBW and
they said it was fairly common with RTs, but nothing to worry about
unless it looked like the casing was splitting as well. I retired them
soon thereafter, simply for peace of mind, even though they appeared
to have tons of tre
WTF?
*http://tinyurl.com/puu8jw*
--
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA
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I've consistently had problems with Ruffy Tuffies over the years. Yet
another pair is starting to separate along the tread:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/3529285691/
That said (and seen), I store my bikes in a hot shed. It's exposed to the
southern sun and gets HOT in there (There i
So I'm sure I'll regret this in a few weeks, but cash money talks...
I haven't owned this long. As you'll see in the photos the crank,
brakes and rack are still attached.
http://tinyurl.com/pmgprt
Selling the frame only, or frame plus rack, or frame plus brakes and
rack, or frames plus brakes
the only thing is that the toptube is measured along its top horizontal line.
thats after the shallow headtube is taken into consideration. and, because of
the necessary increase in fork rake, there will be more toe clip space. it just
seems to me that the saluki is a long bike relative to the
Boy, Moulton's experience hit home with me. I went from a 10 CM stem
and Noodle bar (110 mm reach?) on my Riv Road, to an 8 cm stem with a
Ritchie Biomax bar (80 mm reach) set 3 cm lower, and was more
comfortable. My back angle didn't change much, but my hands are now
not so far in front of my s
We use the Magnaflux Spotcheck dye penetrant system at work. It's
easy to use, and will highlight cracks the reach the surface. No UV
needed. A set of the three spray cans needed will run you under $40
(plus shippping) from Grainger or McMaster-Carr.
Bill
On May 13, 4:17 am, mitchelr wrote:
Don,
I'm not Grant, but I can hazard a couple of guesses.
The longer TT provides more room for fat tires and fenders on the
Saluki, with less toe overlap. The intended owner for the sportier
Ram would probably be more likely to tolerate a bit of overlap than
the presumably more touring-oriented
to grant,
why is the toptube on a 58cm saluki .5cm longer than a 60cm ram?
don c.
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Just ride and smile, my friend.
On May 13, 6:17 am, mitchelr wrote:
> Hope this is not too far off topic. I have an old Sugino Impel
> crankset I want to bring back into use specifically because of its
> 94/58 five arm configuration (and the daunting cost of alternatives
> such as the TA Carmin
Chris: I don't *need* them, but they would be good backup for my m-barr'd
grocery bike, which now sports some originally very nice but now rather
battered 600 non-aeros.
By all means give them to a more needy person, but if after a week or so
they are still hangning around forlornly, I'm intereste
On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 11:13 PM, John Ferguson wrote:
>
> As some of you may remember, I recently built up a Saluki with your
> generous help in selecting components.
>
> I have an on-and-off bad back, and thought it would be a great idea to
> raise the handlebars substantially above the level o
Just proves once again that one-size-fits-all (or one-philosophy-fits-
all, as in "raise 'd bars!") does not work for everyone.
--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org
On May 13, 2009, at 12:09 PM, RonLau wrote:
>
> I will suggest you read this blog entry by Dave Mou
I will suggest you read this blog entry by Dave Moulton
http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2007/8/17/position-is-all-about-comfort-and-efficiency.html
My guess is by lowering your bar, you back is flat. Bottom line, if
it does not hurt and give you the performance level you want, it is
g
Great pics Bryan! That makes (at least) 2 QB's in western NC. What a
great bike. I've been doing a lot of dirt road and Blue Ridge Parkway
riding so far. Put a fixed cog on the flip side and have been riding
that mostly (except, of course, on the long decent from Craggy
Gardens ;^)
I'd love t
In my days as an aeronautical quality engineer, I used a dye check
method for finding cracks in metal. A red dye was painted on, then
cleaned off. Then a white powdery developer was sprayed on. It pulled
the red dye out of any cracks (even minute ones not visible to the
eye) and made them
I own a Bleriot that I purchased in 2006. It is set up with a full
Campy Centaur Group including a compact crank with custom 46/34
chainrings, It works great with the stock size Campy bottom bracket
( I think 111mm, but any good Campy dealer will know what size it
needs ) I could understand perhap
Very nice bike!
Who is your photographer?
-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bryan @ Renaissance
Bicycles
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 8:48 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Photos of the new Rivendell
I'm no metallurgist, but I would think that a thorough cleaning and a
once/twice/thrice over with the hairy eyeball would be enough to
detect any cracks on a crank, given how little real estate there is to
cover. Focus especially on areas that might be possible stress
risers- crank/spider interfa
Wow its a beaut and right here in Seattle, now if I could only come up
with the additional $1135 ;-)
Good luck a bike that nice will go fast
On May 12, 11:36 pm, rcnute wrote:
> I'm doing this with more a twinge of regret. I've decided to build up
> a 26" "country bike" that I plan to subje
Wow, I like the new color with the black tape and saddle.
Congratulations!
On May 13, 9:48 am, "Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles"
wrote:
> While it has taken us a little while to get around to it, we finally
> published some photos of the new silver Quickbeam:
>
> http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/
While it has taken us a little while to get around to it, we finally
published some photos of the new silver Quickbeam:
http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/
As I wrote about previously, this is my much anticipated personal
bike ... and I am very very satisfied. I think the silver color i
As Sheldon brown noted, you can use a Campy crankset on a Shimano BB, but it
will not draw in as far. You have to experiment to see if you get the right
chainline distance. The slope is 2 deg on both, but the Shimano starts out
wider. You can eliminate the guesswork by using the same brand for b
John, that is a gorgeous bike, but I'm prejudice. I have an ebisu
with the same color & fenders. I concur with your back analysis. I
have found that my back often feels better if I ride on the drops for
5-10 minutes. Enjoy.
Michael
On May 13, 1:13 am, John Ferguson wrote:
> As some of you m
this website would suggest 111 mm bb.
remember, supposedly the bb needs to be campy square taper, not
shimano or Japanese standard.
http://www.ebikestop.com/campagnolo_mirage_compact_crankset_1725mm-84763.php
On May 12, 10:19 pm, cm wrote:
> I am in the process of getting all the bits together
I am just realizing the exact same thing, so glad you posted about
this. After a few years of riding road and track bikes where the
handlebars were generally lower than the saddle, I decided to build my
brevet bike for comfort: extra tall Technomic stem with Noodles. I
figured this would eliminate
I use a Miche Pista BB, which is adjustable for chainline. Probably
the 110. For the front derailleur, we usually use an older series 9s
Tiagra (4500).
On May 13, 12:19 am, cm wrote:
> I am in the process of getting all the bits together to build my
> Bleriot. I have a Campy Mirage 50/34 compact
Dye penetrant inspection will reveal discontinuities which are open to the
surface. You spray with a purple dye then use a special cleaner to remove it.
Ths is followed by a white developer. Any cracks will show up as thin purple
lines against the white. Spray cans are available online at testin
Hope this is not too far off topic. I have an old Sugino Impel
crankset I want to bring back into use specifically because of its
94/58 five arm configuration (and the daunting cost of alternatives
such as the TA Carmina). Ebay supplied an old Sugino set. But is it
any good? My LBS folks looke
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