Dick Hartwig wrote:
> Would-be-builders, don't despair, it is not necessary to spend a lot of
> money on saw blades or table saw.
I agree wholeheartedly. I did it the way the plans recommend (or maybe it
was an old Newsletter) on a tablesaw. I don't know how it could be much
easier. Taper requ
>
>Yeah, I the spar is 8.190" of an in thick at the root. Good luck finding a
>saw that will cut that deep. I used a 3000 dollar delta chimerical table
saw and
>it could only cut 3" in depth. If I had it to do over again I would do it
the
>same way and that is build a sled to push though the saw
ylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of boeing757me...@aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 4:18 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: KR> outboard spar taper
Anyone see any reason why
cutting the taper before building the spar would have any advantage?
Yeah, I the spar is 8.190
In a message dated 7/2/2004 5:19:11 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
n5...@hiwaay.net writes:
You
could also do it with a belt sander
The 43-13 recommends not sanding any surfaces to be bonded except on plywood.
Chris Theroux
Gilbert, AZ
Years ago on the net or in the newsletter someone suggested tapering
only 0ne side of the outboard caps. That also gave 90 degree glue
joints on the upright spacers
This is the way I would like very much to go - mainly to have more
surface area (glue area) for the wing skins
Chris Theroux wrote:
> The 43-13 recommends not sanding any surfaces to be bonded except on
plywood.
I've seen that, but I'll bet you money if you stick two pieces of spruce
together with T-88 after they've been sanded, it'll break somewhere other
than the joint. Not to say you should deliberate
I've seen that, but I'll bet you money if you stick two pieces of spruce
together with T-88 after they've been sanded, it'll break somewhere
other
than the joint
+++
I have often seen this instruction, but could never see the reasoning.
One article by Bingelis took it a step furth
At 01:28 PM 7/2/2004, you wrote:
>The spar cap spacing is notably bigger with the new sections. I gather
>from the structural guys that this makes for a stronger wing spar (for
>the same size cap material) - question is, are the shear loads now
>greater maybe requiring a heavier ply web?
The shea
Stephen'
The problem with sanding is that the wood dust gets into the grain and the
glue sticks to the dust more so than the hard wood. This is more important on
end grain gluing than on a flat spar length.
Pat Driscoll
patric...@usfamily.net
Saint Paul, MN
-- http://USFamily.Net/info -
Increasing the spacing between the spar caps does not affect the shear.
++
Thank you.
Steve J
The problem with sanding is that the wood dust gets into the grain and
the glue sticks to the dust more so than the hard wood
++
Makes sense Pat - the way I saw it, the wood dust would ultimately be in
suspension (in the glue) as would some micro balloons or other filler.
I g
Vacuum the sanded portion, Virg
On Fri, 2 Jul 2004 14:58:26 -0500 "Pat Driscoll"
writes:
> Stephen'
>The problem with sanding is that the wood dust gets into the
> grain and the glue sticks to the dust more so than the hard wood.
> This is more important on end grain gluing than on
Subject: Re: KR> outboard spar taper
Vacuum the sanded portion, Virg
On Fri, 2 Jul 2004 14:58:26 -0500 "Pat Driscoll"
writes:
> Stephen'
> The problem with sanding is that the wood dust gets into the
> grain and the glue sticks to the dust more so than the hard wood
If you have a compressor, blow the hell out of the sanded surface and
that
should remove any lose particles.
++
Make absolutely sure that your compressor is producing clean air. The
number of paint jobs that I have ruined due to moisture or oil in the
air would keep me from doing
Does anyone have an opinion (do I really have to ask?) on the best way to
taper the outboard forward spar caps as viewed from the side. There are a
couple of ways to do this.
Obviously, the spar caps need to be taper from the top view before the spar
is built. The plans say to also taper them fr
In a message dated 7/1/2004 6:36:38 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
brian.kr...@engalt.com writes:
Anyone see any reason why
cutting the taper before building the spar would have any advantage?
Yeah, I the spar is 8.190" of an in thick at the root. Good luck finding a
saw that will cut that d
"If any one
would like to see pics of my sleds I will be happy to dig them out of the
attic and snap a few digital pics."
Hey there Chris.
I'd be interested in those pics.
One thing I'll be doing is outsourcing the cutting of my spar caps, but if
at a later stage I want to do it myself on another
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