Excellent, thanks
-Original Message-
From: Mark Jones
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 8:30 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Spot welding aluminum tank
Riveting is the best way to go. I have 500 hours on my tanks with no leaks.
You need to view this link:
http://www.krnet.org/wingt
Riveting is the best way to go. I have 500 hours on my tanks with no leaks.
You need to view this link:
http://www.krnet.org/wingtank/
Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net
Web: www.flykr2s.com
I think you should stick to rivets. There is a bit of a learning curve in the
magical molten joinery of aluminum - be it running a bead with a TIG welder, or
spot welding? I?m guessing since you didn?t know you could do it, you don?t
have much experience with it.
Not a knock on the creativit
Beech Musketeer tanks were sealed with Scotchweld.
I do not think that it was as messy as Pro-Seal, Virg
On 10/27/2013 8:20 PM, Craig Williams wrote:
> So I'm sitting around dreaming of flying my plane someday and contemplating
> my stub wing tanks. The outer wing tanks are weld
Scotchweld is a pretty good room temperature cure structural adhesive...I
call it out a lot in repairs. If you use that I would recommend proseal
along the fillets.
On Oct 27, 2013 9:10 PM, wrote:
> I think you should stick to rivets. There is a bit of a learning curve in
> the magical molten j
So I'm sitting around dreaming of flying my plane someday and contemplating my
stub wing tanks.? The outer wing tanks are welded aluminum and that was fine
but a bit pricey.? My mains are .032 aluminum sheet and I got to thinking how
hard it was going to be to weld such thin sheet.? Poking aroun
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