I think you should stick to rivets. There is a bit of a learning curve in the magical molten joinery of aluminum - be it running a bead with a TIG welder, or spot welding? I?m guessing since you didn?t know you could do it, you don?t have much experience with it.
Not a knock on the creativity, but it?s probably better to stick with rivets and pro-seal (proven, and easy to manage). If you still want to learn the ?magical arts?, so be it, but do it on something that isn?t going to aggravate you when it leaks. Err, and not to start a war, but there are people that say that pro-seal is a pain to use and is messy. I contend that it?s no worse than epoxy in general and if you can wipe your nose without getting it all over your hand, you will do fine with pro-seal or it?s counterparts. ? Matt Sent from Windows Mail From: Craig Williams Sent: ?Sunday?, ?October? ?27?, ?2013 ?20?:?20 To: KRNet So I'm sitting around dreaming of flying my plane someday and contemplating my stub wing tanks. The outer wing tanks are welded aluminum and that was fine but a bit pricey. My mains are .032 aluminum sheet and I got to thinking how hard it was going to be to weld such thin sheet. Poking around the internet I found that in fact you can spot weld thin aluminum sheet (see video) and as luck would have it I have a new 220V spot welder sitting on the shelf. My plan is to use this technique to spot weld my tanks together and seal the seams with Pro-Seal. Anyone heard of spot welding fuel tanks or aircraft skins? http://youtu.be/gcgC3V3mkcw Craig www.kr2seafury.com _______________________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
