Don't get me wrong, I think Icom radios are, by 1995 standards, good kit.
I have all the local freqencies that I am likely to want programmed in,
and yes doing it on the ground either by hand, as I currently do, or
from a computer is easy. But why in 2007 do they have a user interface
from 1986
Hi Bill,
I guess Vertex spent a lot of time developing their antenna. It's
probably unreasonable to expect to improve on an antenna design done by
the RF expert who designed the radio.
If you feel the need to remote mount the antenna, probably the best way
to do it is to get a pair of appropri
Hi Myron,
I am unsure what you are building, I would be very nervous about having
hydraulic disk brakes on a tail dragger.
I previously flew a Luton Minor which was significantly longer than a
KR, and the wheels were further forward. I had pretty weak cable
operated drum brakes, but I could st
Hi Myron, what Colin says is partly true.
He is right of course hydraulic disk brakes are better for stopping, and
they do tend to fade less under heavy use, but KR2 brakes should not get
hot so fade and wear are not an issue.
I would dispute what is said about warping, I have never in 40 years
Thin balsa is very fragile, I doubt that you would get sufficient
stiffness to squeegy out the resin. You would be better off using 1mm
plywood.
Then you could call it a Taylor Monoplane ;-)
Seriously I think trying to skin the wings in thin ply will be very
difficult, especially ailerons, and
Hi Mark,
That is interesting, I would have expected more !
What do you get flat out ? and what is the max revs in level flight
I am surprised you are cruising at 2900 revs, is that normal cruise revs
for a corvair? As it is a car engine, I would have expected that it
could be propped to cruise
Eduardo Navarrete wrote:
> hello everyone and happy new year for all.
>
> what do you suggest me if i use balsa instead of pol.
> foam in the wings?.
>
>
Heavy Man
I think you make those wings too heavy, as you will have to make it
quite thick, or you will not be able to sand it to shape.
P
Here is a post from the UK PFA bulletin board which may interest some of
you guys
" That film clip was taken just after I'd had my plaster-casts removed
from my hands. Veery gentle pull through! Even easier now that the
carb is a little better tuned and the engine has freed off a little. Th
Hi,
Isn't this list great.
As I mentioned a couple of days ago, I thought the main concern with
rain was the chance of it turning into hail.
I had no idea the wet form could be quite so dangerous.
Thanks for the enlightenment.
Pete
> When will I learn to keep my mouth shut.
He Dana,
I for one did not wish to diss your input, and I think it is a valuable
contribution. I learnt from it, I read it several times. I have no intention of
venturing up top, but if I ever screw up and end up there, my pony now has
another trick.
Hi,
After seeing Mark Gorlov's question. I got thinking about my prop, and
I got talking to a colleague at work who flies G-UTSI . He has a Warp
drive ground abjustable prop - which the UK PFA have approved.
Have any of you guys got experience with these props ? I would like to
get a wider vi
Mark Langford wrote:
> Larry H. wrote:
>
>
>> I am curious if any of you ever have to re-torque, or if any of you ever
>> check the torque values of your wooden props.
>> One more question would be, what is your torque values on your props.
>>
>
> The exact wood species that the prop is ma
The trouble with rain is that rain at ground level may be hail at 5000
ft, and that will shotblast the prop to a lolly stick in a couple of
minutes.
Pete
> One wood prop question... I hear they don't like running in the rain. Just
> how serious is that limitation? (Are we talking anything ab
Marc Lee Winnig wrote:
> THAT sounds like a BAD THING, but I thought even rain was supposed to be bad
> for it.
Yep you are probably right, I would not like to find out by personal
experience.
Pete
Mark Gorlov wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> I am a new member of Krnet and the proud new owner of a much modified Kr2
> Built and based here in the U.K. since 1992 see pic @ www.g-info.co.uk an
>
Hi Mark,
The easiest way is to go with the approved props on the PFA eng web site:-
http://www.pfa.org.uk/Engi
Mark Jones wrote:
> Water is not the issue. My tanks were filled with 100LL after the rebuild.
> My first flight after the rebuild was thirty minutes with a hiccup at 4000'
> in level flight approximately 15 minutes into the flight. The second flight
> was for 1.5 hours and had no problems. The
and yet another
http://www.aaib.dft.gov.uk/cms_resources/G-BFZR.pdf
a regular reading through of light aircraft accident reports makes for a
lot of food for thought
Pete
Pete Diffey wrote:
> Mark Jones wrote:
>
>> Water is not the issue. My tanks were filled with 100LL after
Sorry somehow missed out the "in UK" bit - I am aware that your
experimental class allows single ignition.
I think this is one area where the UK CAA/PFA have got it right, a
single fouled plug won't send a PFA plane heading for a nasty moment (
hopefully )
We have lots of regs that are rather
It's really quite simple.
Do your worse case weight and balance empty. ( ie no fuel ) my plane 7.9
inches aft
Do your worse case weight and balance with your std bloke in the driving
seat. ( again no fuel ) my plane 12.1 inches aft
Note the difference between the two, in my plane 4.2 inches
Y
Hi,
There are lots of UK VW engined planes flying around on Lucas SR4
magneto ignition sets taken from 1950's era farm tractors
They produce an acceptable spark, and are very reliable but.
They are absolute hopeless at low revs, I have many times abandoned
flying for the day when my arm has go
I bought G-BLDN back at the beginning of the year, and have been
pottering around for eight months sorting a few problems, and inventing
a few others ( don't ask me why I failed to lash down the canopy before
I tried to trailer her to the airfield ).
She is almost 20 years old, and was rebuilt
Mark,
What did you decide caused the loss of power ?
Pete
Mark Jones wrote:
> A happy day in Wisconsin...N886MJ came to life again this afternoon. She
> idles smoother than she has in quite some time. I get a very smooth increase
> in rpm up to a full static of 2850. She is ready for flight an
Dan Heath wrote:
> I guess you get what you pay for.
>
Some years ago I worked for a cellphone company when WAP ( phone web
browser ) first came out, I thought ah - at last I can get weather on my
phone, so I wrote a little programme that goes off and grabs the tafs
and metars for europe an
Hi
Mark is absolutely right, to mimimise drag through flow separation, any
object should be streamlined at as shallow an angle as possible, so the
tail should resemble a long cone, but like all these things, there is a
compromise, the cones are always kept shorter than ideal. A long
aeroplane
Catching up on some emails from a week back.
What exactly is the perceived problem with elevator cables ?
If anyone feels the need to make long pushrods, then make them out of
pultruded carbon fibre - very light and much stiffer than 4130.
NACA ducts
They don't ram air, there has to be low pres
Peter Drake wrote:
> Pete
> I am looking at using a pushrod for my elevator control. It is about 78"
> long.
> I can get carbon fibre tube 29.3mm od.
> Do you think that would be suitable or might I get away with a smaller
> diameter?
> Would the end connections made of steel tube inserts rivete
I don't condone the theft of Janet's IP.
but
It is up to RR to get their finger out and stick genuine sets of plans
on CD and make them available via ebay or any other means. Mark Langford
has probably helped sell hundred's of sets of plans - far, far more than
RR have sold !
Perhaps it's up
Mark Jones wrote:
> Hey, maybe we should approach Van's and all the others and get them to sell
> their plans on CD's for $10. Get real.!!! Those plans on the CD are theft of
> protected material.
>
Hi Mark,
Vans provide good documentation, plus as far as I know there is no such
thing as a p
elmil...@falconbroadband.net wrote:
> hi all
> Coming to you from the KR gathering,you are missing an
> excellent gathering!
>
Quality pictures, well done.
Pete
Avgas is reckoned to be less prone to carb icing - not sure why that
would be.
The lead in avgas also helps reduces valve seat wear.
Avgas is also stored under somewhat better conditions than your average
forecourt You are much less likely to buy a quarter a pint of rain water
water with your
Dan,
Whilst not particularly inspiring, that's not unusual for a VW, once
turned thru a few blades and getting some fuel in the compression comes
right up. Try it again after a couple of mins running and it will be fine.
Not sure if you are aware of the VW aero list at
http://groups.yahoo.com/
A good place to start is the Haynes Manual
http://www.haynes.com/na101.html#anchor570578
Ronald Wright wrote:
>Does anyone have photos on their website about tearing
>down and rebuilding a 2180 VW engine?
>
>
>
Hi Dan,
Low cloud - carb ice ???
Irrelevant to your grumpy engine, I cannot remember, do you have a VW ?
if so 3000 RPM static sounds a bit low, 3100 would be better, sounds
like you have slightly too much prop.
Pete
Dan Heath wrote:
>It was almost noon before the ceiling lifted enough for
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