Hey folks...I just started building K2 #5945. Can't wait to get back
to the bench :)
As I was going through soldering the first few resistors and resistor
packs, I looked at my solder job through a magnifying glass and
noticed that it *looks* like pins 2 & 3 and 6 & 7 on RP1 (on the
control board
Hi John,
Small world, I'm working on K2 #5945 :)
I don't believe my manual has photos either, except in the case of the
inventory sheets that have photos of some parts for identification.
Jeff KA6LAF
On 1/6/07, John Mahon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi Group.
The mailman left me K2 #5949 yest
Thanks guys, nice work. I'm just coming up on that in my build now :)
-J
On 1/10/07, Brian Broggie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
There has been some email discussion here recently about the K2 LCD and
backlight pieces and how to prepare them for installation.
The major concern revolves around the
So I just finished the control board, and went through the resistance checks.
My measurements for U6 pins 29 and 30 both read infinite (or very,
very large resistance, basically my VOM is in out of range). They're
supposed to be 70-90k.
I've been extremely careful with U6, always have my static
Sorry, I should have noted, this is a K2, #5945.
On 1/11/07, Jeff Kinzli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So I just finished the control board, and went through the resistance checks.
My measurements for U6 pins 29 and 30 both read infinite (or very,
very large resistance, basically my VOM is
harles N3EJS
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Kinzli
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 7:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Another newbie question, Control Board checks
So I just finished the control board, and went t
Tonight I finished part one of K2 #5945's RF board, having finished
the control and front boards earlier today. Wow, these are a lot of
fun to build!
While doing phase 1 of the RF board, I noticed that I had an extra
2.7k resistor that was either out of order, or an extra.
As far as I can tell,
[Resending due to spam bounce]
Hey guys,
Having a little trouble here with K2 #5945. I just completed phase 1
of the RF board, and am going through the phase 1 testing. The rig
powers up, displays the "Elecraft" sign on the LCD, relays fire when
changing bands, everything *looks* like it's workin
Problem solved - pin 7 of U9 on the control board had a somewhat flaky solder
joint, looked good, but wasn't solid. Resoldering that joint fixed the problem.
Moral of the story: test a bit more before bothering you guys :)
-Jeff
On Sat, Jan 13, 2007 at 02:00:36PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli
I just finished the PLL mod board, working through the RF board construction on
K2 #5945. I made the solder pads on the back of the small board as small as I
can and even then it looks like they'll touch the capacitor that is right
behind that board. Makes me think a shot of silicone in there mi
Hey again guys,
I'm at the stage where I need to put the little tiny RF choke on the bottom
side of the RF board.
The manual calls for RFC15, which is supposedly tiny, and BROWN-BLACK-BROWN.
The only one I have that's brown-black-brown is a larger one. The little tiny
one I have is GREEN-BROW
. Is there any difference?
Thanks.
Jeff
On Sun, Jan 14, 2007 at 10:24:41PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> Hey again guys,
>
> I'm at the stage where I need to put the little tiny RF choke on the bottom
> side of the RF board.
>
> The manual calls for RFC15, which is suppo
Hey Guys,
Ok, I'm at phase 2 of the K2's RF board resistance checks.
Everything looks good, except U10, pin 8. For this check, the manual says ">500
ohms", but for me, it's like 10Mohms. The rest of the checks (in this phase of
tests) where pretty close (like if it said >500 ohms, it would be
Ok, I'm at VCO alignment now :)
Problem is that moving L30's slug around doesn't change the reading on R30, it
stays at 8V. My T5 *looks* good to me. The manual says refer to troubleshooting
but I didn't see anything there that would get me in the ballpark.
I've checked solder joints in the vic
's voltage.
Anything else to check?
-J
On Tue, Jan 16, 2007 at 09:36:41PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> Ok, I'm at VCO alignment now :)
>
> Problem is that moving L30's slug around doesn't change the reading on R30,
> it stays at 8V. My T5 *looks* good to me. The man
ty laundry :)
Cheers,
-J
On Tue, Jan 16, 2007 at 11:07:22PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> A little more investigating...turns out the voltage on R30 is much lower (4V,
> +/-) on other bands except 80M. On 80M, it's still at the 8v rail no matter
> where L30 is adjusted...
>
> I'
Next hurdle (my apologies for all the questions) - I just finished the "BFO
Test" and found that my BFO low frequency was a touch high (only about .5kHz).
I am assuming this is because I don't have a frequency counter and was unable
to do the internal frequency counter calibration. Would you all
Dennis, there's BNC->SO-239 plugs widely available, you can pick one
up at your local Radio Shack...
-J
On 1/21/07, Dennis Vavra <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Does anyone out there know of a company taht could assemble a
"pigtail" assembly for the k2 ant connection. I have never had ham gear
with
Last night I finished K2 #5945. Going through my work (and especially
while winding the last few transformer toroids) I realized that on T5,
and a couple others, I used the green thicker wire rather than the
thin green magnet wire.
Doh! Talk about missing the boat!
Well, everything *appears* to
Hey Guys,
Having just finished my first K2 (#5945) I'm looking for
best-practices on grounding it properly in the shack.
This is going to be used at home, rarely, if ever, portable.
At first, I'm going to use a 12V battery to power it, and will get a
Samlex PS in the near future for when I do t
Thanks Don, and everyone who replied.
I don't plan to use a KAT2, and I like Don's explaination. Much appreciated.
Cheers, 73,
-J
On 1/22/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jeff,
If you are using a tuner in your antenna line, ground that instead of the K2
0 the K2 will be grounded by
Hey Folks, what's the approximate build time on a KPA100 compared to a
K2? I just finished K2 #5945 and am antsy to get the KPA100 on the air
;)
Also, wondering about the KDSP2 (looks quick) and KNB2 (also looks quick).
Thanks,
-J
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Elecraft mailing
Ok, so no one is talking...
I just finished my K2 #5945 last week, and love it so much that I
decided to give myself some early Christmas presents, so I dropped by
Elecraft this morning (they're about 5 minutes down the highway from
my house) and picked up a KPA100 and KDSP2. I was going to get t
Hey guys,
I'm working on KPA100, and at the step to install RFC6 and others. The board
outlines and holes are for miniatures, but the only miniature I got was RFC9.
Is it ok to bend the leads on the larger chokes to bend underneath the choke to
make the holes? If I do this, the choke is about 0
So, I'm finally getting to the transmitter alignment section on K2 #5945.
With a dummy load, I set power on 40M to 2W, and go into tune mode. I can never
get more than about 0.4W on the K2 display, and my wattmeter barely moves,
which would jive with that also. Moving L1/L2 through their full ra
Oh, and I have checked, and C167 is indeed installed. :)
On Wed, Jan 31, 2007 at 11:45:54PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> So, I'm finally getting to the transmitter alignment section on K2 #5945.
>
> With a dummy load, I set power on 40M to 2W, and go into tune mode. I can
> ne
ack.
I have a sneaking suspicion it's a problem with a toroid lead, but I have
checked and rechecked them all, measuring continuity across windings at the
solder pads.
Do any of you guys offer troubleshooting service, in person? :)
Thanks for any ideas,
Jeff
On Wed, Jan 31, 2007 at 11:58:28
nks again,
Jeff
On Thu, Feb 01, 2007 at 09:20:27PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> Alright, a little bit of an update on my problem...
>
> Gary at Elecraft gave me a list of voltages to check upon TX.
>
> Unfortunately, my scope is old and I couldn't get it to play fair, so the
So I've been debugging as I get time my recently finished K2, and trying
to find out why it's got no output.
Tonight I traced all of the DC voltage points in the troubleshooting
guide, and found two anomolies, both of which are connected to one
another.
On pin 7 of U4, and also pin 1 of U5, I g
Along these lines, is there a way to know that the thermistor board is
working properly? I'm guessing one would see drift, but are there more
efficient, quantitative tests to ensure thermistor board function?
Thanks,
Jeff
On 2/6/07, Chuck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Dave,
It's tight, but ev
Hey friends, how hard would it be to implement something along the
lines of an IF shift, ala the TS830S IF shift? That's something I
really like about my 830 and it seems like it would be a nice addition
to the K2.
Along the same lines, would it be feasible to have an outboard S-meter needle?
I
Hi Nick,
I'm a beginner kit builder also, and just finished my first K2.
I, too, was worried about the toroid windings. I went ahead and tried
it, and it really isn't that bad.
I found that Elecraft gives you more than enough wire, so err on the
side of a longer wire than called for by an inch
Hallelujah! K2 #5945 is finished and has power on all bands. Woohoo! :)
It's a little low on 10M (like 8 or 9W total). Not sure if that's
something to worry about or not.
Anyhow, I'm just starting to build the KPA100. I have not yet put all
the covers on the K2, nor the speaker, etc. From what I
Hey all, I'm assembling my KPA100, and the book says to install some
pins in the ribbon cable connectors at Pin 4, keying inserts.
I'll be darned if I can find anything remotely close to these that
would have a chance of fitting in those holes. Anyone have a picture
handy, or any help in finding
With the help of Charles, N3EJS, I realized that it's been a long day
of building...I see the picture now.
Cheers,
-J
On 2/11/07, Jeff Kinzli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey all, I'm assembling my KPA100, and the book says to install some
pins in the ribbon cable connectors
On the KPA100 kit, C2A and C6D are 1200PF 500V caps. The ones I got
were marked "122J" and are of the brown type (like 103, 104, etc.) but
bigger. C2a/C6d though are not quite as big as the other 500V caps
included in the kit, and they don't fit perfectly into the cutouts on
the board, and they ce
Yes! Don's been super helpful and patient with my build as well. Don,
you're the best, big kudos, and thanks!
Jeff
On 2/14/07, Dale Kretzer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Surely, the phonetics for Don Wilhelm's call letters, W3FPR, must be "Friendly,
Patient Radioman."
After following Don
Hey Folks, got the KPA100 done tonight, full power on all bands, woohoo!
One question, is the fan supposed to blow IN or OUT of the chassis?
I saw the same question in the archives but no answer...
Thanks!
-J
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Post to: Elecra
Oh man, what timing...2 hours before the start of the contest, and I
went in and did CAL tPA to set the ambient temp of the KPA100, and
when I came out of the menus, I had no sidetone anymore!
Going through all the menus, all the side tone settings look correct.
The rig hears and transmits fine,
In my stressing, I didn't think to check the archives...found the answer here:
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2006-08/msg00751.html
Problem solved. Pfew!
Cyu in the contest ;)
-J
On 2/16/07, Jeff Kinzli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Oh man, what timing...2 hours
N 3000 K2 (or have
put the sidetone source change on an older K2 because you added the KPA100
or KIO2) your sidetone source should be 'U8 - 4' - you will see the source
displayed briefly each time it is toggled.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Congratulations, Ken! I just finished #5945 and a KPA100 and am having
a great time in the ARRL DX contest this weekend. You'll love the
radio!
-Jeff KA6LAF
On 2/10/07, Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
K2 S/N 5665 is up and running today on all bands.
Now to install all the additional modul
I'm quite surprised at how well the KDSP2 is able to make signals go
from uncopyable to Q5 copy. The last few evenings I've been spending a
lot of time on 40M listening (and working a few) to europeans, and
with my smallish antennas, most of the european sigs are quite weak
out here in CA. With th
I've been 'burning in' my new KPA100 this weekend in the ARRL DX contest.
I've noticed something strange though, it's very intermittant, I've
only seen it twice now over the weekend.
- Antenna SWR is flat, 1.0:1
- Palstar wattmeter indicates 100W out
- Band is 40M
Now, the strange part - very o
I agree with Arie, the K2 is not a technically challenging build. The
fact that the build is broken up into many smaller steps really helps
make it easy to sit down, work on it for a couple hours, then go and
do something else.
The engineering that went into this, and attention to detail, is supe
I'm not quite sure how to ask this, and perhaps it's covered somewhere
else (again, not knowing how to ask leaves me having trouble finding
it in the archives) :)
Anyhow, in a fast paced contest such as this weekend's ARRL DX CW, I
found myself wishing that the time between finishing transmitting
I used a Weller WES51, and was pleased with it. Variable temperature,
ESD-safe and mine was $99 I think. Lots of tips available most
anywhere...
-Jeff
On 2/20/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
My soldering station which is an off-brand has bitten the dust so I'm
looking for a new
Curt,
I just finished a KPA100 build for my K2 (#5945), so I don't quite
have the perspective of installing into an pre-3000 K2, but I can tell
you that the KPA100 kits do come with a couple of mod-kits for earlier
K2s. One of them is an ALC mod and the other is a keying waveform mod,
if I rememb
So I opened up the KPA100 tonight to do a quick mod, and noticed the
thermal pads under Q1/Q2 are a bit worn. It's like the pressure of me
tightening down on them has smashed through them a bit on the outer
edges of the pads.
Is there an issue with a path to ground here, or are they strictly
ther
Going through the archives I think I have satisfied that I'm ok, and
will continue to use the "old" pads...
Thanks!
Jeff
On 2/23/07, Jeff Kinzli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So I opened up the KPA100 tonight to do a quick mod, and noticed the
thermal pads under Q1/Q2 are
Thanks to those that sacrificed their NGEN, it's helpful for me to
read that, as I'm building an XG2 at the moment and it will help me
remember to go into TEST mode before connecting it ;)
Jeff N6GQ
On 2/28/07, David Lankshear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Yep, been there, got the tee-shirt! A sn
Greetings Elecrafters,
K2 #5945 with KPA100 has been very happy lately, working lots of good
DX on the bands and teaching it's owner some new tricks :)
Anyhow, when I first finished the KPA100 a month or two ago, I noticed
some high output (like 140W) at times. It happens on 40M (well, that's
th
Tim,
You might also consider "riding the RF gain" route, depending on how
bad the pileups are.
Turn AGC off, turn up the RF gain, and modulate RF gain as needed to
discern signals.
Be careful though, in this mode AF gain is mostly unbounded, i.e.
you'll hurt your ears and/or headphones if a sign
Thanks, Dick, found the problem, mine is now settled around 4K. Much
appreciated...
Jeff
On Sun, Mar 1, 2015 at 10:35 AM, Dick Dickinson wrote:
> I get about 3.6K across the input Anderson Power Poles of my early, but up
> to date K3/100.
>
>
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> Dick - KA5KKT
>
>
>
> ---
Seems to me that one viable possibility would be for Elecraft to build
a new box - one that encapsulates the existing K3, but has a new front
panel that's larger, with more knobs allowing each knob to have a
singular function. For those that use the K3 as their main home radio
- this would allow yo
It was deliberate, apparently in both cases...
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/09/BAP816VTE6.DTL&tsp=1
On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 13:13, Jack Brindle wrote:
> The word here in Silicon Valley is that Verizon had a major fiber cable
> break. It has taken out pretty much all t
On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 07:13, Paul Christensen wrote:
>> Two weeks ago, in my friend's shack I compared K3,IC7700,IC7800(by ear
>> ONLY), since there are no major contest in that day, so I can't say
>> anything about "dynamic range " or something like that.
>> IMHO, ic7700's DSP is best, 7800 DSP
I recently picked up a Begali Simplex. I absolutely love that key.
http://www.i2rtf.com/html/simplex.html
Cost-wise, it's hard to beat, and it's the smoothest key I've ever used.
It's also very nice to look at...
Jeff N6GQ
On 10/15/07, Rob Lundahl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Any recommendatio
Is it too early to ask about the likelihood of the 2nd run of K3's
shipping on the 19th? :)
I'm eager because I'd like to take it to KH6 for CQWW CW which falls
on the following weekend (of course, I could pick it up from Aptos,
since I live in Santa Cruz) :)
Jeff N6GQ
___
Yes, it was felt here in Santa Cruz pretty good (which is about 5
miles from Elecraft HQ).
No damage though, all is well AFAIK.
Jeff N6GQ
On 10/30/07, Kevin Rock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 5.6 is a walk in the park for you folks in California but here in Oregon we
> notice these things :)
>
>
Hey all,
While I'm awaiting my K3 delivery, I'm feeling the need to play with more gear.
I'm on the lookout for either an Elecraft 2M transverter, or a KX1. If
you have either one of these that you're looking to sell, whether it's
still in kit form, built or partially built, please contact me
off
I'll throw one more option into the mix...
Lately I've been using one of Force 12's Sigma 40XK vertical dipoles.
This is about 16 feet tall, and since it's a center-fed dipole, it
supposedly doesn't *require* a counterpoise or radial system, so I've
been using it without one.
This particular ant
Ed, you're going to love the build, and love the finished product even more.
Welcome to the group!
Jeff N6GQ
On 3/2/07, eKotz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Greetings all.
I have placed my first Elecraft kit order... a K2 plus lots of
trimmings. The old heathkit-er in me rejoices and I look forw
Hey Friends,
I'm wondering if there's a hidden switch somewhere that would allow
the KDSP2 to power-on in bypass (or off) mode? The manual says:
"On power up, the KDSP2 will default to the first filter for each
mode. It will retain the current filter for each mode until power is
again cycled."
Along these lines, is there a way to set the DSP back to factory
defaults? Pull the battery? I seem to remember reading in the manual
there was, but now that I want that info, I can't find it :|
Jeff
On 3/6/07, Lyle Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've just built K2 #5957 and installed the
I have a K2 with DSP, and just last weekend added the KNB2 to the mix.
So far, for the noise I have here, the DSP denoiser works much better
than the KNB2. I've just been switching it in and out to see what
affect it has, and so far haven't found much noise that it removes.
I'm in a relatively q
So I just finished building an XG2, and did the measurements on my
K2/100, #5945. MDS came out to be -136.96 dBm. That seems to be what
the manual states is within normal range.
I wonder what the variance is on the MDS between K2s? Anyone else
measure theirs and care to comment?
Thanks,
Jeff N6
I'll be the third to chime in on how useful the spectrogram method of
aligning filters is. The first time around (without spectogram) I
noticed similar results as you did, then I did the spectrogram
alignment and it got *much* better, but it still wasn't right. Third
time, it got even better. I'll
Chris, I'm a 99.9% CW op, too, and find myself working weak signal
stuff mostly, and mostly on 40M. I find the KDSP2 an invaluable tool.
I also have the KNB2, and it's effective on some noise, but I rarely
use it.
You have to hear the difference between a very weak signal on and off
the DSP. It's
Keith, the improvement is there across the board, and I find that
depending on conditions, sometimes wider is good, sometimes not.
I find myself often switching between crystal and DSP filter settings
to find the sweet spot, and often there really is a very definate
sweet spot for a given signal
Greetings Elecrafters,
K2 #5945 with KPA100 has been very happy lately, working lots of good
DX on the bands and teaching it's owner some new tricks :)
Anyhow, when I first finished the KPA100 a month or two ago, I noticed
some high output (like 140W) at times. It happens on 40M (well, that's
th
My K2/100 (#5945) has been working well lately, until I started
noticing higher output at times, more pronounced with higher SWR
antennas (i.e. it would more often spike it's output power if
connected to an antenna with more than 1.3:1 SWR, the output power
would rise to 140W).
About the same tim
f
On 4/7/07, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
My K2/100 (#5945) has been working well lately, until I started
noticing higher output at times, more pronounced with higher SWR
antennas (i.e. it would more often spike it's output power if
connected to an antenna with more tha
Another way of checking - do you have a toroid at L15 and is RFC10 present?
It is not likely to be a sticking relay problem - that almost never
happens with the KPA100.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> My K2/100 (#5945) has been working well lately, until I started
> noticing highe
in the office, but if you have two .1 uF caps with a
voltage rating of 50 volts or more, you can parallel them for the time
being.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Don, thanks, it's the newest KPA100, just bought/built it about a
> month or two ago...
>
> -Jeff
>
> O
Don and others,
A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output
with his K2. Don said:
If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100 installed, the
K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested power
is displayed briefly when the powe
output with the requested power
set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be.
Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with
the power control.
OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in
the power control (ALC) loop.
73,
me - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle. OK for
short bursts, but not good for longer periods. The base K2 shoud be
limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35
watts or less with the KPA100.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Hi Don,
>
> Th
that update was designed
to combat a parasitic on 40 meters. In your case, I would recommend the
KPA100UPKT if it is not already installed just to be rid of the
possibility that the 40 meter parasitic is what is causing your problem.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Thanks Don and oth
ailure.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Don, thanks.
>
> I do have a recently-made KPA100 (~3 months) and have installed the
> upgraded C31 to combat the parasitic.
>
> When in QSO, I see the power jump up, and it seems to stay there until
> I enter a TUNE operation or
Sounds fun, I might be in for that.
If my K3 is delivered in time, I'll be taking it with me to KH6 for WW
CW and possibly SSB too. Otherwise, I'll take my K2 and we're going to
try it (with DSP) for the 160M station. I'll be at a station on the
big island.
Jeff N6GQ
On 6/13/07, J F <[EMAIL PRO
My K2 (#5945) has tons of audio, both in the headphones as well as in
the speaker. My volume knob never gets above about 1/4-1/3 scale.
Jeff N6GQ
On 6/23/07, Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>From the posts I've read in the past there would seem to
be large differences in the amount of audio
While it's true that 20M is more competitive than other bands, it's
also true that 20M will allow you to have more of a DX window for more
hours of the day/night, and there's a better chance of finding DX on
20M than any other band, IMHO.
Just looking at QSO totals for most expeditions, QSO totals
What's this I read about an Elecraft portable antenna at Dayton?
#curious.
73 de N6GQ
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That's what I was wondering...is it the AX1 or something different?
On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 8:08 PM, rich hurd WC3T wrote:
> You mean the AX1? :)
>
> On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 18:54 Wayne Burdick wrote:
>>
>> Stay tuned :)
>>
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
For sale: factory built LP-Pan with EMU 0202 for K3, with all needed cables.
Best offer.
Jeff N6GQ
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Hi there,
I have a newer K2/100 (5000's serial number) with KDSP2, KIO2 and
KNB2. I find that it sits on my desk and I don't use it, so I'm
looking to sell and invest in more antennas.
I built the K2, and it works great, but does have one small bug - the
TX output spikes sometimes but I have not
Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
the front panel power switch).
I believe my PS is in good order, and nothing but antenna, PS and
paddle are connected to the back. It doesn't appear to be related to
ector it should be
> checked for that condition.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2011 6:47 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
>> intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
&g
gt;
> ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 3/9/2011 7:58 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hi Don, yes, I have checked this - there is nothing connected to the
>> ACC connector or the RS232 port when this occurs.
>>
>> Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached
ause a short. Re-seating
> will often correct an open circuit condition, but a short to ground is a
> different animal. If you find any bits of conductive material floating
> around, that would be suspect.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2011 7:58 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrot
I will try this...thanks,
Jeff
On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 00:57, mark crossland wrote:
> j...@n6gq.com
>
> Jeff, remove the rs232 board and clean it gently with water and toothbrush
> . let dry and reinstall . that should get you back up and running
>
> Mark W1VJ
> K3 # 427
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Being an avid contester, and having used the KX3 in numerous contests
already (both stateside and as a DX station), I think it makes a great
contest radio.
One of the first things I'd suggest is considering trying it on CW rather
than SSB. If you don't know CW, this is a great time to learn, and I
Hey y'all, I have an old K3 that we upgraded to K3S a few years back. It
also has a DVR unit in it. All firmware is current.
Today upon powerup the DVR didn't work - showed as not installed and
obviously didn't work.
I powered off the radio and back on again, and there was the DVR, working
again
Hello friends,
I'm curious who has tried an SO2R setup of K3 as primary, and KX3 as
secondary radios in a SO2R set up. If you did, did you find anything
out of the ordinary with respect to the KX3 being the secondary radio?
More prone to interference from the primary radio (or vise-versa)?
My gue
Any idea when the assembly manual will be available? I'd like to get
an idea how much is involved in building versus ordering a
factory-assembled unit.
On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 11:31, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
wrote:
> Yes - that is an error inthe preliminary manual. We will correct it ASAP.
>
I haven't seen it mentioned, but I'm wondering what the KPA500 kit
plan is? Is it similar to the K3 kit, where it's akin to assembling a
computer, where boards are put into an enclosure, or is it a solder
some parts type kit? I'm assuming the former given the nature of the
kit (having HV and big vo
Hey all, KX3 (Kit) #80 is on the air. Looking for some QSOs to help me
get familiar with the radio.
I'm at 14044 now, and could jump up to SSB - I'd like to get the mic
gain, etc set nicely, so on the air reports would be helpful.
It was a blast to assemble - and even more fun to operate :)
73 d
l transcends power!"
>
>
>
> On May 6, 2012, at 5:46 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>
> Hey all, KX3 (Kit) #80 is on the air. Looking for some QSOs to help me
> get familiar with the radio.
>
> I'm at 14044 now, and could jump up to SSB - I'd like to get the m
r frequencies that
> do provide greater intelligibility.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 5/6/2012 6:46 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>
>
>
> Hey all, KX3 (Kit) #80 is on the air. Looking for some QSOs to help me
> get familiar with the radio.
>
> I'm at 14044
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